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post #1 of 8 Old 21st May 2019, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
Grundy87
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2000 M5

I have a deal in the works and I am asking for some advice if anyone is willing. I am in the process of getting my hands on a 2000 M5 for next to nothing. The caveat, it has been sitting garage kept from a family member for 10-12 years. It also got a little moisture in the interior and has mold on the leather seats (not a biggie, clean them and find the failed seal). I am a novice but have the right guys in my corner. A few have rebuilt a couple M3s and have a mechanic friend but I want to do this on my own. Any advice as far as a process to start with and troubleshoot what step by step. The lines are gorgeous, with it being the Blue color scheme and black and blue interior. Any information helps. Cheers!
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post #2 of 8 Old 21st May 2019, 12:48 PM
josiahg52
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Put fresh fuel in and drive it? What needs troubleshooting? You didn't mention how many miles/km are on it or if it runs and starts with a new, fully charged battery. What kind of climate was it stored in?

I'd be prepared to replace the fuel filter after a tank full is run through. Was it stored with a full tank of fuel? Might be considering a fuel pump if not.

If you're asking what I'd like to do, well, that's a lot of work that's probably not really required so I'd recommend driving it and wait for stuff to not work and then troubleshoot. I wouldn't take it on a road trip or to the track. Easy weekend drives of increasing radii until there's a few hundred miles racked up should let you know what's going to require attention.

On the other hand, it might not even turn over and will require starter replacement or overhaul. Then, it might turn over but not run because of rodent or moisture damage or a multitude of sensors not functioning correctly. If it turns over and runs, it may not run correctly due to rodent or moisture damage, a failed or failing sensor, bad fuel, a failed or failing fuel pump, failed or failing ignition coils or fouled spark plug or plugs. If it starts and runs and idles correctly, it might not operate under load because all of the above and more but it might not stop because the long storage period has corroded caliper pistons, slide pins and ruined bores and who knows what condition the brake fluid and pads are in. The tires are most certainly finished and the camshaft position sensors (CPS) are surely the obsoleted versions.

Okay, so what would I do? I'm assuming I don't know the immediate history of the vehicle and this is a fun car and not a primary.

- Purchase and become proficient with a proper BMW diagnostic scanner.
- Top up all fluids then get it to turn over.
- Replace the fuel and fuel filter and have a fuel pump on hand. Purchase new MAFS and CPSs.
- Start it, just get it idling and the engine up to temperature first. Monitor for leaks. Purchase new brake rotors, calipers, pads, lines and brake fluid.
- Replace the spark plugs, engine air intake and cabin filters. Get an oil sample analysis kit from Blackstone Laboratories. Purchase oil separators and associated hoses/grommets amd valve cover gaskets.
- Check all fluid levels again and top off as necessary. Purchase new engine coolant thermostat, water pump, expansion tank, hoses, radiator and coolant/antifreeze.
- Drive around slowly and make sure it rides and stops with no issue. Purchase and install new tires.
- Check all fluid levels and top off. Purchase engine oil and filter, transmission and differential fluid.
Prepare to change engine oil and filter, transmission and differential fluids and engine coolant, water pump and thermostat, brake pads/rotors, etc. You may prepare for engine coolant radiator and expansion tank if you like at this time.
Drive it not around other cars or people. Listen for noises, monitor brake performance, check for leaks. Light at-speed operation is desired because you want to get the entire drivetrain to operating temperature.
- Get back home and replace the engine oil and filter while obtaining a sample for analysis. Drain and refill the transmission and differential. Replace the engine coolant system (radiator and expansion tank optional) and oil separators. Replace the CPSs which you might find easier with the valve covers off. Replace the brake parts at each wheel, bleed the brake fluid and replace it. Replace the MAFS. Purchase new O2 sensors.
- Drive it. Increase the distances slowly and suss out other problems. Expect it to not run super smooth at first as the car gets used to running again and the DME adapts to the new operating conditions. Pay attention.

2/2001 M5, Jet Black, Exclusive Complete Black Walk Nappa Point Heritage Leather, Black Cubic Trim
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post #3 of 8 Old 21st May 2019, 12:50 PM
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Hard to say with limited information. Definitely start with a battery, get the gas out of the tank, fresh gas in, change the oil and see if she runs. The good thing is the car is not too bad to work on yourself. There is a ton of info on this forum and many knowledgeable people on here. I'm not one of the more knowledgeable people, but i managed to do 90% of the work on my car with the help of this forum and YouTube.

The bad thing is that parts are not cheap for the car and the costs add up quickly. Hopefully it was parked in good running condition, you can get it running and you can chip away at the restoration if that is what you plan to do.

The parts for sale thread will probably be your friend for a while. There are people in there with multiple cars on hand and parts for reasonable prices.

After you determine whether or not it runs you can get yourself a scanner and start troubleshooting issues. Most likely someone has experienced the issue and there is a thread on it. There are also several threads by guys who rescued cars. You could dig around and read them to see what they did to get an idea of what it took to get their cars sorted out.
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post #4 of 8 Old 21st May 2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marko360 View Post
Hard to say with limited information. Definitely start with a battery, get the gas out of the tank, fresh gas in, change the oil and see if she runs. The good thing is the car is not too bad to work on yourself. There is a ton of info on this forum and many knowledgeable people on here. I'm not one of the more knowledgeable people, but i managed to do 90% of the work on my car with the help of this forum and YouTube.

The bad thing is that parts are not cheap for the car and the costs add up quickly. Hopefully it was parked in good running condition, you can get it running and you can chip away at the restoration if that is what you plan to do.

The parts for sale thread will probably be your friend for a while. There are people in there with multiple cars on hand and parts for reasonable prices.

After you determine whether or not it runs you can get yourself a scanner and start troubleshooting issues. Most likely someone has experienced the issue and there is a thread on it. There are also several threads by guys who rescued cars. You could dig around and read them to see what they did to get an idea of what it took to get their cars sorted out.
My fault! I forgot to mention this was an every day driver that was driven into the garage for the last time around 10 years ago ans was started up once since. It was left just to collect dust. It has 120,000 miles on it. I will post before pictures once I get it to my garage.

Thank you for your feedback ANYTHING helps me. This will be a fun project and like you suggested, I am am pricing out a BMW diagnostic kit. Actually, fairly in expensive.

I will for sure start with the first big 3 items you mentioned; battery, gas, and then change oil.

Glad so many willing to give input on this discussion board!

Thanks!
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post #5 of 8 Old 21st May 2019, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josiahg52 View Post
Put fresh fuel in and drive it? What needs troubleshooting? You didn't mention how many miles/km are on it or if it runs and starts with a new, fully charged battery. What kind of climate was it stored in?

I'd be prepared to replace the fuel filter after a tank full is run through. Was it stored with a full tank of fuel? Might be considering a fuel pump if not.

If you're asking what I'd like to do, well, that's a lot of work that's probably not really required so I'd recommend driving it and wait for stuff to not work and then troubleshoot. I wouldn't take it on a road trip or to the track. Easy weekend drives of increasing radii until there's a few hundred miles racked up should let you know what's going to require attention.

On the other hand, it might not even turn over and will require starter replacement or overhaul. Then, it might turn over but not run because of rodent or moisture damage or a multitude of sensors not functioning correctly. If it turns over and runs, it may not run correctly due to rodent or moisture damage, a failed or failing sensor, bad fuel, a failed or failing fuel pump, failed or failing ignition coils or fouled spark plug or plugs. If it starts and runs and idles correctly, it might not operate under load because all of the above and more but it might not stop because the long storage period has corroded caliper pistons, slide pins and ruined bores and who knows what condition the brake fluid and pads are in. The tires are most certainly finished and the camshaft position sensors (CPS) are surely the obsoleted versions.

Okay, so what would I do? I'm assuming I don't know the immediate history of the vehicle and this is a fun car and not a primary.

- Purchase and become proficient with a proper BMW diagnostic scanner.
- Top up all fluids then get it to turn over.
- Replace the fuel and fuel filter and have a fuel pump on hand. Purchase new MAFS and CPSs.
- Start it, just get it idling and the engine up to temperature first. Monitor for leaks. Purchase new brake rotors, calipers, pads, lines and brake fluid.
- Replace the spark plugs, engine air intake and cabin filters. Get an oil sample analysis kit from Blackstone Laboratories. Purchase oil separators and associated hoses/grommets amd valve cover gaskets.
- Check all fluid levels again and top off as necessary. Purchase new engine coolant thermostat, water pump, expansion tank, hoses, radiator and coolant/antifreeze.
- Drive around slowly and make sure it rides and stops with no issue. Purchase and install new tires.
- Check all fluid levels and top off. Purchase engine oil and filter, transmission and differential fluid.
Prepare to change engine oil and filter, transmission and differential fluids and engine coolant, water pump and thermostat, brake pads/rotors, etc. You may prepare for engine coolant radiator and expansion tank if you like at this time.
Drive it not around other cars or people. Listen for noises, monitor brake performance, check for leaks. Light at-speed operation is desired because you want to get the entire drivetrain to operating temperature.
- Get back home and replace the engine oil and filter while obtaining a sample for analysis. Drain and refill the transmission and differential. Replace the engine coolant system (radiator and expansion tank optional) and oil separators. Replace the CPSs which you might find easier with the valve covers off. Replace the brake parts at each wheel, bleed the brake fluid and replace it. Replace the MAFS. Purchase new O2 sensors.
- Drive it. Increase the distances slowly and suss out other problems. Expect it to not run super smooth at first as the car gets used to running again and the DME adapts to the new operating conditions. Pay attention.
Wow, thank you very much for basically providing a detailed checklist with links to everything. This will help me immensely, I really appreciate the time spent in this reply. I am excited about this project and really see a diamond in the rough. This car was an everyday driver until about 2006-2007 and was put into his garage and sat to collect dust ever since. He has started it once since then and has 120,000 miles on it. This is the fully loaded out model with the black and blue leather interior.

I will post some before pictures as soon as I get it to my garage. The mold which was the seller biggest concerns is minor as I am familiar with how to clean. I am not which seal was bad that let in moisture but we do live here in Louisiana so 75% of the time we have humidity but this was kept in a closed garage. I have tested and the mold should come off easily. I am more concerned with the tubing and fluids and anything that may be locked up.

Thanks again for the details.
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post #6 of 8 Old 25th May 2019, 07:22 PM
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I just fixed a water leak into my interior on my 540i. This is the third time I have had this happen to an E39. The door vapor seal leaks, allowing water hitting the door/window to pour into the car. Not a pinnacle of German engineering. but easy enough to fix. Oddly, all three cars with the issue have happened on the right rear door. To check, run some water onto the door (or better yet, have someone else do that) and take a look at the carpeted area right below the door. If it is wet, that is your problem.


Remove the door panel (pretty easy) and carefully check the vapor seal for loose areas. I found some 3M product at the local auto parts store (called Strip Caulk, item 08578) that is perfect for fixing this. It is VERY sticky black strips of flexible sealant. I bought a box of it and ran a bunch around the entire door/vapor seal mating surface. Pressed the vapor seal into the black 3M product and all is good.


Mold will clean up pretty well, but the smell will be with you for a while. You will not notice it when you are driving the car, because you will be in a happy place!

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2008 Audi RS4 Cabriolet, Datona Gray with silver leather
2017 Chevy Silverado, my economy car!!!
1999 528iT, black/black, 212k miles. The Black Rat
2002 540iA, Silver with black leather


Gone but not forgotten:
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2000 BMW 540/5 - Blue
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post #7 of 8 Old 31st May 2019, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveinGigHarbor View Post
I just fixed a water leak into my interior on my 540i. This is the third time I have had this happen to an E39. The door vapor seal leaks, allowing water hitting the door/window to pour into the car. Not a pinnacle of German engineering. but easy enough to fix. Oddly, all three cars with the issue have happened on the right rear door. To check, run some water onto the door (or better yet, have someone else do that) and take a look at the carpeted area right below the door. If it is wet, that is your problem.


Remove the door panel (pretty easy) and carefully check the vapor seal for loose areas. I found some 3M product at the local auto parts store (called Strip Caulk, item 08578) that is perfect for fixing this. It is VERY sticky black strips of flexible sealant. I bought a box of it and ran a bunch around the entire door/vapor seal mating surface. Pressed the vapor seal into the black 3M product and all is good.


Mold will clean up pretty well, but the smell will be with you for a while. You will not notice it when you are driving the car, because you will be in a happy place!
Thank you for the heads up. This will be the first thing I check. I am ready to just get it in my garage and let the fun begin. Hopefully this fun won't drain my bank account, it can't!
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post #8 of 8 Old 31st May 2019, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Grundy87 View Post
Thank you for the heads up. This will be the first thing I check. I am ready to just get it in my garage and let the fun begin. Hopefully this fun won't drain my bank account, it can't!
Parts are generally not too expensive, many used in common with the E39 5 series. And there are plenty of vendors. Shop around.

If you are mostly doing your own labor, you should be OK. Just prioritize what needs to be done immediately to make the car safe, then address the things needed to make the car better.

Regards,
Jerry

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