Insurance deeming total loss, now what? - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 17th May 2019, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
Jakl15
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Insurance deeming total loss, now what?

I was run off the road several months back and ended up off in the grass in a fairly flat area, but still never good.

Driver drove off and I obviously wasn't able to track him or her down. Not the point of this post anyway.

So this has been death by 1,000 cuts during this whole process. Initially it was just some body work, but expensive stuff that added up quick like bumpers, pork chops, etc. Once the body shop got down below those panels, they uncovered more things that were cracked/broken like the vacuum pump bracket and evap canister. Those additional things drove the damage number even higher, but not quite to the 75% threshold.

Once I got the car back, I could tell it was driving differently than before. I took it to an indy shop and they found some torn bushings that had been replaced in the past couple years so well within their service life and those were also attributed to the accident. Once insurance got that information, the damage number was driven above the 75% limit and they are declaring it a total loss.

So naturally they have given me 2 options. Either let them take the car and they pay out the full amount (it is an agreed value policy, so it is the full value of the car), or they let me keep it and give me the payout minus the salvage value of a few thousand $$. The difficult part now is that this car is mostly fixed minus a couple diff bushings and FCABs.

I'm approaching a PCS (move do a different location, possibly overseas) in the next year or so and really don't want to deal with the logistical problem of moving 4 vehicles. It seems the obvious choice is to let the insurance company take the car and I walk with the money. My hang up is one less beast on the road that is in pretty good condition and well optioned/cared for, plus a great maintenance history.

Keeping the car would involve me either just cleaning it up and selling as-is with the PPI that was done by the indy shop here to fully disclose the remaining work required, or having the work done, driving it for a bit, and then selling it later on.

I'd really appreciate everyone's thoughts on this. Thanks!
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post #2 of 11 Old 17th May 2019, 07:27 PM
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Guess you need to figure out if keeping it for future resell is worth the cost/hassle to you. Based on current prices for good ones, a damaged car with a salvage title (?) won't bring much. If you are lucky, you will find the right buyer, but I expect that you will have a ton of looky-lou's and low-ballers before you do. Any way, glad you are OK and good luck with your decision.


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post #3 of 11 Old 17th May 2019, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by ChuckRoberts View Post
Guess you need to figure out if keeping it for future resell is worth the cost/hassle to you. Based on current prices for good ones, a damaged car with a salvage title (?) won't bring much. If you are lucky, you will find the right buyer, but I expect that you will have a ton of looky-lou's and low-ballers before you do. Any way, glad you are OK and good luck with your decision.


Upcoming PCS? Thanks for your service too!
Makes sense, but even if I kept it the parts alone should easy be worth the $5k salvage value, right? It's either that, sell it as is, or drop $2500 to get the suspension fixed up and have a good running driving car.

I'd much rather this go to an enthusiast than a scrapper though.

Other oddity is that it may not end up with a salvage title. They're totalling it out because it hit the 75% threshold, but Texas doesn't require a salvage title until over 100% value is lost.
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post #4 of 11 Old 18th May 2019, 05:25 PM
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You are close to clemster, he would probably buy it

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post #5 of 11 Old 18th May 2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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You are close to clemster, he would probably buy it
At the price they are trying to sell it to me for, I'd probably be better off finding a touring with a straight body and blown motor and just doing a swap!

I'm pretty sure LMB wagons don't exist, but a Silverstone interior with Titan trim would look pretty nice in most colors. Need to find me a black or anthracite maybe.

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post #6 of 11 Old 18th May 2019, 07:48 PM
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is that 2500 using bmw part prices and retail labor. with the e39 being diy friendly you could get that cost down to 500 in oem or better parts if you did the work yourself. otherwise I would list it fully disclosure and see if some one has the time to save a lot of money themselves and lets the car get a new lease on life.
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post #7 of 11 Old 18th May 2019, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by caslvre39 View Post
is that 2500 using bmw part prices and retail labor. with the e39 being diy friendly you could get that cost down to 500 in oem or better parts if you did the work yourself. otherwise I would list it fully disclosure and see if some one has the time to save a lot of money themselves and lets the car get a new lease on life.
2500 using BMW parts and labor. Needs new thrust arm bushings, front and rear diff bushings, and right diff seal (seal isn't accident related, but just a while you're in there thing).
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post #8 of 11 Old 19th May 2019, 12:49 AM
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i highly doubt it really needs rear diff bushing-got pics, I would just you do the unicorn solid front which you dont need to remove the diff for and its ez to make your own tools and you can do just the thrust arm bushing but if you wanted to keep it I would totally do fcp monoballs and unless the diff is pissing try some driven fluid. so for less than a couple hundred in parts and a few hours diy or charged labor it can be fixed.

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post #9 of 11 Old 19th May 2019, 01:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by caslvre39 View Post
i highly doubt it really needs rear diff bushing-got pics, I would just you do the unicorn solid front which you dont need to remove the diff for and its ez to make your own tools and you can do just the thrust arm bushing but if you wanted to keep it I would totally do fcp monoballs and unless the diff is pissing try some driven fluid. so for less than a couple hundred in parts and a few hours diy or charged labor it can be fixed.
I honestly believe it. The rear end hit a pothole in the grass and caused the rear axle to move so much it let the driveshaft rub up against the heat shield. I'll try to get pics. The diagnosis came from a reputable Indy shop (Bimmer Performance Center), but I'll look into the other options for bushings.

Keeping the sedan long term isn't really an option at this point. I love my 3 series wagon way too much, but it's more a wagon thing than 3 vs 5 series. We have 4 vehicles and need to thin down before our move next year. My wife's Jeep isn't going anywhere and neither is my F250 (we have a woodworking side hustle and need the hauling capacity). So it's either my E46 sport wagon or the M5. The E46 I got from it's original owner and it's been kept in fantastic shape, as has the M5 up until now.
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post #10 of 11 Old 19th May 2019, 03:03 AM
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yeah, thats the front diff bushing only. when they go bad it lets the shaft rub and hit the body. doubt the 2 at the rears are complete torn through on both.
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