Hex code E6 - EGAS - Nominal/actual-comparison - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 10th April 2019, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
technician117
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Hex code E6 - EGAS - Nominal/actual-comparison

Hey guys.

The salt is clear of the roads finally so yesterday I put plates back on the M5. I took it for a maiden voyage and after a few miles of warm up, decided to lay into the throttle a bit. She started cutting out, hard. It would start to accelerate a bit and then violently shut down until I would back off the throttle a second later. Further testing showed that giving it light load was no problem but if I dipped hard into the throttle it would start misfiring or choking out. Check engine light came on by now. The code was as mentioned in the title. E6 -Drive by wire throttle position failure is the Peake definition.

The TPS's are not that old, a couple years maybe. Throttle actuator and pedal are originals.

The only work this winter was new spark plugs, swapped my 3.45 diff back in and cloned my DME with a spare as a test for a separate issue.

Anyone see this code before?

My diagnosis plan was to replace the actuator with a spare and/or swap the original DME back in. (which did not fix the other issue btw)

Tim

2013 M5 Imperial Blue/Silverstone II, 6MT 50k miles

2000 Anthracite daily driver
UUC dssr and shifter
Supersprint headers with Tubi catback
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Dinan 3.45 JED lightened flywheel
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'00 Imola/Imola 104k,
'00 Silverstone/Silverstone 129k (SOLD)
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post #2 of 11 Old 10th April 2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to replace the actuator last night. I pulled a really nice, clean one out of storage and also a set of RK plenum plates I've been waiting for the chance to install (during the next time the plenum needed to come off). It was an easy job to replace the actuator, roughly 2 hours. Unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. On the test drive I tried to get a better feeling for whats happening. It cuts out and idles the engine when reaching the same spot in pedal movement, roughly 3/4 throttle. It's pretty consistent too. It doesn't really matter where the rpm's are. Sounds like the pedal pot?

Tim

2013 M5 Imperial Blue/Silverstone II, 6MT 50k miles

2000 Anthracite daily driver
UUC dssr and shifter
Supersprint headers with Tubi catback
Jailbreak tuning
Dinan 3.45 JED lightened flywheel
282,000 miles and counting

'00 Imola/Imola 104k,
'00 Silverstone/Silverstone 129k (SOLD)
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post #3 of 11 Old 11th April 2019, 12:38 AM
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Judging by the Peake definition and what you've described, yes. Isn't there a way of checking the pedal position output, though?

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post #4 of 11 Old 11th April 2019, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by technician117 View Post
I decided to replace the actuator last night. I pulled a really nice, clean one out of storage and also a set of RK plenum plates I've been waiting for the chance to install (during the next time the plenum needed to come off). It was an easy job to replace the actuator, roughly 2 hours. Unfortunately it didn't fix the issue. On the test drive I tried to get a better feeling for whats happening. It cuts out and idles the engine when reaching the same spot in pedal movement, roughly 3/4 throttle. It's pretty consistent too. It doesn't really matter where the rpm's are. Sounds like the pedal pot?
Never had a newish part go bad? Pretty big assumption there is nothing wrong with the TPS without testing. I know you have ISTA so hook it up and watch the 2 TPS voltages as you sweep through the area you feel is causing the code.
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post #5 of 11 Old 11th April 2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
Never had a newish part go bad? Pretty big assumption there is nothing wrong with the TPS without testing. I know you have ISTA so hook it up and watch the 2 TPS voltages as you sweep through the area you feel is causing the code.
It's easy enough to check. I'll look tonight. I did try monitoring the pedal sensor in INPA while driving but it was too hard to watch. I ran out of time last night to do any further tests (like stationary monitor of the sensors while depressing the pedal).

Wouldn't I get a different code if one of the TPS's went bad? I drove the car much longer than the first outing and NO codes came up even though the car drove the same. What I discovered is when the pedal gets to a certain point, it stops reading higher throttle input and will hang the revs and slowly drop them until you back off the pedal enough for it to read again. Literally can put my foot to the floor and the rpm's will stay where they were when the signal was lost, and slowly start creeping down. It's a really weird feeling. haha.

Tim

2013 M5 Imperial Blue/Silverstone II, 6MT 50k miles

2000 Anthracite daily driver
UUC dssr and shifter
Supersprint headers with Tubi catback
Jailbreak tuning
Dinan 3.45 JED lightened flywheel
282,000 miles and counting

'00 Imola/Imola 104k,
'00 Silverstone/Silverstone 129k (SOLD)
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post #6 of 11 Old Yesterday, 09:04 AM
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Yes I don't disagree, I just saw a big whole that you could drive a truck of M5s through. Figured it was better to plug that gap before you get to the hard stuff. Sort of simple it is not the actuator, make sure it is not the TPS and then it must be the pot, crude but effective. Could be other things like a mouse built a nest and half chewed a wire but most parts seem to fail when not used.

I parked my M5 for the summer to drive the RS4 and when I went back to drive the 5 for the fall and winter so many things went bad I had to drive my wagon. Still don't have the 5 fixed, and there was not one thing wrong when I parked it.
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post #7 of 11 Old Yesterday, 03:50 PM
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IIRC the pedal has a redundant sensor, which is the inverse of the the other sensor. There is also two tps sensors one for each bank.

I'm leaning towards you got a bad spare dme, I'd start by putting the original in before going too crazy.

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Last edited by Ferris; Yesterday at 03:50 PM.
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post #8 of 11 Old Yesterday, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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IIRC the pedal has a redundant sensor, which is the inverse of the the other sensor. There is also two tps sensors one for each bank.

I'm leaning towards you got a bad spare dme, I'd start by putting the original in before going too crazy.
I think you're describing the TPS relationship. I'm well aware there are 2 of them :-)

I monitored the pedal and TPS with INPA last night. Strangely they only showed one of the TP sensors, possibly because the value shown is derived from both readings combined. Anyway, I could not detect any errors in the readings. It's hard to get pedal readings with the engine running but stationary. You need to be driving so it's under load and will open the throttle plates. The readings for the TPS all looked normal. I also did a key on, engine off slow opening of the pedal so I could watch the pedal reading and see if it would flatline or drop off early but it seemed normal.

Since changing the pedal sensor is a huge PITA from what I've heard, I DO plan to swap the DME back in. I planned to do it regardless because this one has EWS deleted.

All physical running signs point to a throttle control sensor being at fault. I can rule out the actuator and the symptoms point to the pedal, but no guarantee.

I'll report back when I can.

Tim

2013 M5 Imperial Blue/Silverstone II, 6MT 50k miles

2000 Anthracite daily driver
UUC dssr and shifter
Supersprint headers with Tubi catback
Jailbreak tuning
Dinan 3.45 JED lightened flywheel
282,000 miles and counting

'00 Imola/Imola 104k,
'00 Silverstone/Silverstone 129k (SOLD)
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post #9 of 11 Old Yesterday, 06:47 PM
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I double checked the pedal is redundant too.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...sensor/uagyPgu

I maybe thinking of the E60 but I think with the MSS52/MSS54 with inpa you can assign a throttle position and it'll open the plate up that value. It's been a while but it's worth looking if you can.

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Last edited by Ferris; Yesterday at 06:49 PM.
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post #10 of 11 Old Today, 12:34 AM
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Sorry I forget which one works but only one sensor is used. The other is used to reverse check the voltage of the working one. When the first is found to have some fault the DME switches to use the second and then if there is another anomaly the car goes into limp mode and both are used to try and determine a throttle position.
Not sure how the pedal works, never had to deal with a bad one.
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