Where to start with Vanos maintenance? - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 34 Old 8th March 2019, 06:48 PM Thread Starter
austrianvespaguy
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Where to start with Vanos maintenance?

So no real issues, no codes, runs fine, etc. (other than a few seconds of rattle on warm startup) with my 2000 Vanos, but I'm curious if any preventive maintenance is considered wise. I'm quite sure I don't want to pull the whole Vanos units off and mess with the timing, etc., but I'm considering either the later accumulator w/shutoff upgrade and/or a refurbishment of the solenoids. As I understand it I can accomplish either of these without pulling the manifold, timing covers, radiator, etc., correct? I realize that with an 01/2000 build date I will need to both run the harness and program the DME in order to upgrade the accumulator though. So my options then:

1.) Don't worry about a little startup racket, wait until there's codes/running issues before touching anything.
2.) Go for the accumulator upgrade, as per the TIS it *should* fix the startup rattle, and after all rattles are generally a BAD thing.
3.) Solenoids are more important/integral parts than that useless accumulator, start with making sure they are happy first.
4.) If starting down this path, might as well bite the bullet and do both at one shot.

What are the prevailing opinions here? Thanks!
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post #2 of 34 Old 8th March 2019, 07:09 PM
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Only 3 and throw a main timing chain tensioner at it if you have not. Most likely no more rattle on start. Pointless anyway. The rattle comes from oil completely draining out of the vanos piston, solenoids are your best bet to prevent this, the oil from the accum takes to long to get there to prevent the rattle.
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post #3 of 34 Old 8th March 2019, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks as always Sailor, though upon further inspection something interesting: my vanos covers seem to have the 4 set screws in front of the solenoids, but I thought this only came on later Vanos versions? Maybe not true though. In any case, I'll def. do the timing chain tensioner first, and then may move on to the solenoids.
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post #4 of 34 Old 8th March 2019, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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post #5 of 34 Old 9th March 2019, 01:59 AM
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Other, just get the 2 drings (not a typo they are D shaped and only available at your dealer) per noid and the paper gasket for the cover. Yes you should have the 4 grub screws in your covers by 01/2000, think it was 10 or 11 1999 the change was made.
If you keep the boards in the same place and keep each of the noids in the same location you do not need to touch the grub screws. If you do want to loosen them, take the covers off bake them in the oven at 400 for 20 - 30 mins put then in a vise and use an impact to remove/Loosen them.
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post #6 of 34 Old 9th March 2019, 11:00 PM
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post #7 of 34 Old 10th March 2019, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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So the BMW d-rings appear to be equally expensive as the aftermarket viton o-rings; given that the price is a wash, which is 'better'?
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post #8 of 34 Old 10th March 2019, 03:42 AM
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The stock vulcanize to the bore. This is likely better, but it also means you need to replace when they do vulcanize, if removed. Drings also will not be as likely to roll or twist during installation. Not sure there has been anything conclusive about which is better, but my preference is for none rolling because it is a very tight fit.
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post #9 of 34 Old 13th March 2019, 06:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austrianvespaguy View Post
So the BMW d-rings appear to be equally expensive as the aftermarket viton o-rings; given that the price is a wash, which is 'better'?
The BMW D-rings are IMHO the best for the solenoids. For the plunger seals and other o-rings, we generally use Beisan, though Dr. Vanos is substantially the same and we have used its products as well.

--Peter
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post #10 of 34 Old 15th March 2019, 06:49 PM
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I can speak towards the accumulator upgrade.
I did this on my 2000, and it literally did nothing to help the startup/idle rattle.
I bought all new parts (I think the total was close to $400). Every part of this job is a royal pain, both the accumulator removal/install and fishing the wires to the ECU.
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