Where to start with Vanos maintenance? - Page 3 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #21 of 34 Old 19th March 2019, 12:34 AM
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It is enough to make me clean it again and then I would move it to the inlet side and run the test again. Leaky outlets will cause vanos rattle on startup. 5 is significant but not a game breaker.
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post #22 of 34 Old 19th March 2019, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Sailor, I'll go ahead and do another flush on the bank 2 solenoids, but I don't think I want to mess around with swapping stuff with bank 1 as it passed with great numbers, so don't want to mess with that one! FWIW my hot-start rattle has disappeared after the first solenoid maintenance, so clearly was worth doing. In other good news while I was messing around in DIS, I decided to clear the adaptations, reset the throttle mapping, and balance the idle; holy crap what a difference! Throttle response is immensely crisper and I've also noticed a significant improvement in the torque curve. Now I wish I knew what was 'off' previously that was dragging things down, but oh well, she's a totally different car now and I sure hope she stays that way!
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post #23 of 34 Old 19th March 2019, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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More good news, pulled the bank 2 solenoids here this morning and sure enough seemed like there was something stopping up the most-outboard noid. Got it flushed and back on the car, reran test and now passes! Still 3 degrees off, but if that passes the test, good enough for me!
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post #24 of 34 Old 19th March 2019, 05:40 PM
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post #25 of 34 Old 26th June 2019, 11:37 PM
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I have a similar question to this one. Should I start a new thread or add to this one?

I have had a fairly quiet dieseling sound for awhile (when I bought the car there were only clicking noises), but after letting the car sit for a couple of weeks the noise is painfully loud. It doesn't go away when the car is warm, and it hasn't cooled down enough for me to try it cold. It sounds like it is coming from the vanos or maybe the top of the timing chain on bank 1 (right side, passenger side in US). It is almost certainly VANOS-related, from what I have read.

Should I buy the $200 drvanos O-ring upgrade kit, or are more parts needed? The car has > 230K miles so I don't mind doing this as Step 1 in the diagnostic process.

Is there anything I should try that doesn't require buying parts or removing the intake manifold (I really don't want to torque down dozens of bolts twice) ?
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post #26 of 34 Old 27th June 2019, 06:16 PM
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I have no idea what is in a Dr Vanos kit, but it has way more than you need to start with. All you need to start is a set of Drings and this thread.https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e3..._full-diy.html
Don't mess with the pistons and other parts until you know the noids are all perfect and doing their jobs.
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post #27 of 34 Old 27th June 2019, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
I have no idea what is in a Dr Vanos kit
Just a set of D rings and a gasket.

Thanks, I'll get the rings ordered and test the solenoids while I wait for shipping.

Mark
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post #28 of 34 Old 27th June 2019, 08:43 PM
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For $200 outrageous. He normally does not sell Drings only the dealers do. He normally had vitron orings, the Drings are better.
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post #29 of 34 Old 27th June 2019, 10:11 PM
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It does seem a little steep! What is the best source for these parts?

Thanks again,
Mark
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post #30 of 34 Old 28th June 2019, 01:25 AM
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Only the dealer has the proper Drings and the cover gasket is just a dust gasket and if it comes out without breaking can be reused. If you do break it it can be temporarily replaced with one cut from paper which will do the job until you get a proper replacement. Some even say run without that gasket, not my preference but I travel a lot of gravel roads.
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