My E39 M5 has Spun Rod Bearing - Page 3 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #21 of 40 Old 3rd March 2019, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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post #22 of 40 Old 3rd March 2019, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexE39M5s62 View Post
Thank you Ferris n josiahg52.

So with the possibility of it possibly being rod bearings and/or a lot of other potential issues...do you think it would be better/easier to find a working used s62 engine to buy and just swap it in?

If so I could just keep my original engine and diagnose it and fix it as a side project or part it out if it is too damaged?*(*if that is a possibility of it being damaged beyond repair)

Are there/what are any other issues that could have caused it that are not a part of the engine?

Thanks again guys....I am liking this M5board a lot as I have only just joined.
The last few posts contain solid advice and information. Ultimately, I don't think your immediate issue will be solved with rod bearing or complete engine replacement. As boris1 and others have said, I really think it's a transmission (drivetrain) issue, metal shavings notwithstanding.

It's certainly worth taking a look at the rod bearings and other items as Sailor24 suggests and if you like the car, I think it's worth the time, money and effort to get them replaced. My list of other work above were not suggestions of what could be wrong with your car but a list of other items I would address when/if you replace the rod bearings.

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post #23 of 40 Old 3rd March 2019, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by josiahg52 View Post
The last few posts contain solid advice and information. Ultimately, I don't think your immediate issue will be solved with rod bearing or complete engine replacement. As boris1 and others have said, I really think it's a transmission (drivetrain) issue.

It's certainly worth taking a look at the rod bearings and other items as Sailor24 suggests and if you like the car, I think it's worth the time, money and effort to get them replaced. My list of other work above were not suggestions of what could be wrong with your car but a list of other items I would address when/if you replace the rod bearings.
Thanks for the reply

Thank you for clarifying for me. I do know, to the best of my knowledge, that this engine has never had the timing chain guides replaced or the rod bearings replaced, so I would like to make sure to address them if they are the issue or replace them as preventative maintenance.

I bought the car for $12,500 with 121,000 in 2017 and intended to keep it for a long time so I am willing to get it back up and running. I pretty much figured something expensive would eventually go/need to be replaced based on the price I paid for the car.

But I almost bought an e60 M5 6speed manual for $30K but it was in horrible physical condition (interior/exterior). So i chose the e39 M5 for a much cheaper purchase.
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post #24 of 40 Old 3rd March 2019, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
You have a friend that is a mechanic, so I would get him to run some tests. First he should check oil pressure, this can be accessed by removing the low oil pressure sensor at the oil filter housing. Search oil pressure with user name 68FB on the forum search, he wrote about this several times.
Next drop the lower oil pan and look for plastic bits that were once your guides. Then fish around for things that might have been pieces of your rod bearings, although bits of them are rare. You should also be able to look at the oil pump chain to see if it is rubbing. Once there you could use a bore-scope to look at the bearings, vision may not be possible but it will give and idea.

Next I would look at the tranny and clutch. If the dual mass fails some little bits and pieces can jam in and hold the clutch plate out. Sometimes you can detect that by the "feel" of the clutch petal, but often there is little change to the feel because you are pushing the pressure plate springs and that can remain the same.


When dual masses fail they slap back and forth and create a lot on knocks but they are not the same noise as an engine knock, but experience may be required to notice the difference. If you record the knocks at a certain rpm then slow the tape so you can count them, do a little math. One knock per rotation could be rod bearing two or more is less likely unless you spun two bearings, possible but less likely.

Thank you for such a detailed reply. I will definitely show this to my friend when I have him check it out, I just need to figure out a time that works to have it towed to his shop.

Would the fact that this all happened immediately after doing an oil/oil filter change help with your diagnosis? This all happened within 2 miles of driving after leaving my house once I had finished changing the oil.
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post #25 of 40 Old 3rd March 2019, 10:59 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by boris1 View Post
This is a wild *** guess, but this sounds more like a transmission countershaft (or countershaft gearing) than anything else. You mentioned that the engine would rev but no motion. That is clearly a driveline issue. However, you also said that it would move in 5th gear and not other gear. I've actually pulled the 420G transmission apart in the past and all gears except 5th go through the countershaft. 5th gear is direct drive, only connects input shaft to the output shaft. Therefore I suggest a very simple test that doesn't require you to start the engine or cost any money. Without turning on the engine, raise the back wheels of your car (must raise both not just one due to limited slip diff). This is best done with two jacks in the back, or can put a single jack under the diff (I know lifting by the diff is controversial, but you have bigger issues to worry about). Put some wheel chocks under front wheels so the car doesn't roll. Then put the transmission in neutral and try to turn the rear wheels by hand. It should turn freely. Now put the transmission into each gear and try to turn the rear wheels again by hand. If you can turn it in all gears, then you either have a transmission or clutch or flywheel failure. If you can turn it in all gears except 5th, then you definitely have a counter shaft failure. Either way, the trans is coming out and you can then clearly figure out what happens.
Hey borris thanks for the reply.

I will have my friend do that test once I can. But what I meant about 5th gear was just to see if the clutch was slipping(nothing to do with the rod bearing/issues I am having now). I do it with all my cars while driving periodically just to make sure my clutch is still in good working order and not starting to slip. I am pretty sure the clutch would slip in 5th gear at low speed/rpm when giving it gas, if the clutch was in fact slipping that is. That is what I was referring to with 5th gear.

I do have a pretty good general understanding of engines and can do some basic mechanical work myself but these issues are definitely out of my experience level and my lack of tools lol.

But if I am reading correctly if I get the rear lifted up and I am able to spin the wheels by hand in neutral and do the same test for all 6 gears and the wheels spin in any of the 6 gears I would have a (trans/clutch/flywheel failure)?

But if they do not spin in any of the 6 gears then my trans/clutch/flywheel should be ok?

Thanks for the reply
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post #26 of 40 Old 3rd March 2019, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xrviz View Post
There was a similar thread here about a year ago, car was making a horrible noise. They had a hard timing figuring out where the noise was coming from. Had to get the car on a lift to source it and turned out to be the diff.
You're in the same boat IMO. The oil flakes may be a separate issue. I think you should focus on one issue at a time. Get the car on a lift and try to pinpoint the problem, tranny, clutch, FW, or diff. You don't want to replace the engine and find out the diff was the problem. Talk about throwing parts at the car.
Yea I definitely don't want to throw a bunch of parts/a full engine at this car lol

For the differential would I do the same test that borris recommended for the clutch/flywheel/trans?

Or is there a different test I could do to test the differential for damage?

Thanks for the reply
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post #27 of 40 Old 4th March 2019, 12:17 AM
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ALex, just to further answer your question, if you can spin the rear wheels by hand with the transmission in any gear and the clutch pedal released, then the transmission is coming out no matter what and that should be your priority over rod bearings. Once the transmission is out it should be relatively easy to do the diagnosis of what is wrong.
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post #28 of 40 Old 4th March 2019, 12:23 AM
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For the differential, your best bet is to spin the driveshaft by hand with the transmission in neutral. If you broke some teeth off the ring gear (highly unlikely) then by turning the pinion gear you will likely find the spot where the pinion can turn without the driveshafts turning. That is a definitive differential failure sign. Also, if you feel any binding while turning the diff, then that is a giveaway as well. However, if you transmission is still in the car and attached to the drive shaft, then you can't determine if the binding is coming from the trans or the diff. Likely the trans and/or prop shaft are coming out to diagnose this driveline issue.
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post #29 of 40 Old 4th March 2019, 12:26 AM
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Maybe, but I can't think of anything except if you forgot to put in an oil filter. If that is true you might have a spun bearing or 3 maybe even 8, but then I would have no idea why the car won't move. I suppose the crank could have broken. Without the filter being in place the drain would be open and I have never sat down and thought about how that would make a mess. Maybe that is the first thing you should check. If you find that just call Clem and get a motor, because I am pretty sure that one would be toast and not rebuildable.
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post #30 of 40 Old 4th March 2019, 12:41 AM
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Another thought about checking the differential. After the 'spin check', maybe check the differential seals? I mean, is there fluid in the case? Is there signs of leaking fluid? No or low fluid would be a sure way to smoke one. Just a thought.

We're all just throwing ideas around and I don't want to overwhelm you but I'd be checking the transmission aft before I got too heavy into the engine.

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