My Brake Pedal Feel is Kicking My Butt... - Page 7 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #61 of 158 Old 8th January 2019, 04:26 AM
xrviz
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I'd say your beast is bled out.

However, check out post #3 here.

If that doesn't get it I would probably throw in the towel and get a used hydraulic half from Adam (Clemster).
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post #62 of 158 Old 8th January 2019, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Can I, Should I, take the hydraulic half off and clean the passageways and poppet valves? Or have it rebuilt locally or get a used one from Adam (Clemster)?



I am guessing that if a valve is stuck open, or closed, the fluid will move through the hydraulic half and back to the reservoir allowing the brake pedal to travel to the floor (not allowing full pressure to the calipers)?



Any advice is helpful here...
Thanks!!!
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post #63 of 158 Old 8th January 2019, 08:41 PM
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Depends on your skills but cleaning the noids might solve your problem and inspection is a good first step.
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post #64 of 158 Old 8th January 2019, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
Depends on your skills but cleaning the noids might solve your problem and inspection is a good first step.
Have you tried this? Do they activate with a small 9V like the vanos noids? Can you flush them somehow while activating?
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post #65 of 158 Old 9th January 2019, 01:09 AM
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Yes but not on this model. Did it to an E34 540 I had, but then stopped pushing fluid back up and never needed to do it again. Not sure I figured anything out, but it set the stage for figuring out the vanos when I got my E39 M5. I usually have a spare parts car, and in my E34 days I had 3 or 4 so swapped parts for diag.
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post #66 of 158 Old 9th January 2019, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austrianvespaguy View Post
So MAJOR success on my side! Indeed turned out to be the hydraulic unit half of the ABS system! I was able to determine this conclusively after I got plugged in with INPA. While cycling all of the ABS valves, got to the left-rear outlet and. . . no clicking!!! Removed the electronic front part and hooked it up to my spare unit and ran through everything again and all valves clicked properly, so then I went ahead and opened the lines, swapped in the good hydraulic unit, re-bled everything, and now brakes work properly again! Posting here in the hope this helps someone, key point being it was easy to hear which valve was non-functioning when cycling all of them in INPA!
How did you go about cycling the ABS with INPA?

These are the options that I have. Does it look the same for you? If yes, which sequence do you follow to activate the valves - first intake RR, exhaust RR, then RL, etc... ?


Last edited by sreten; 9th January 2019 at 01:25 PM.
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post #67 of 158 Old 9th January 2019, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sreten View Post
How did you go about cycling the ABS with INPA?

These are the options that I have. Does it look the same for you? If yes, which sequence do you follow to activate the valves - first intake RR, exhaust RR, then RL, etc... ?




That is a question I would like the answer too also. When I did mine from this screen, I assumed one would have a power bleeder connected, pressurized, bleed nipple open and work the corresponding vents, etc... for that nipple. Can someone confirm this. I had search the web high and low for instructions on this and for other parts of INPA.
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post #68 of 158 Old 16th January 2019, 01:34 AM Thread Starter
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I have been pondering what my next step should be to get to the bottom of this brake pedal to the floor issue.


It seems that there must be air in the system that allows the pedal to go way down. I don't know if the DSC hydraulic valve block is at fault (valve stuck open or close). When I use INPA to activate all the solenoids, I do hear them click and the pumps pump. I would like to send the whole DSC unit somewhere for testing, both the electronics and the hydraulics as an assembly. Can anyone suggest such a shop in the USA for this?


If not, I am thinking I should separate the electronics from the valve body and try and open it up. I would be looking for sludge and anything that would prevent free movement of the valve pistons trap air. Has anyone opened one up? Any info/tips?


What about re-bleeding the DSC to remove all air and the whole system once it is reinstalled?


Any information would be a big and much appreciated.
Thanks!!!!!!
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post #69 of 158 Old 16th January 2019, 02:10 AM
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Have you inspected the pump?

2001 E36/7 MRoadster
2001 E39 M5
2010 E60 M5
2008 E90 335xi
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post #70 of 158 Old 16th January 2019, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Ferris View Post
Have you inspected the pump?

I have not other than activating the two pumps and hearing them run. But please tell me how this is done and what to look for in order to determine if the pump is good or not. Details and pix or where to find them would be very helpful.


Thanks!
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