E39 M5 in LA (The "mu5") - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #11 of 24 Old 19th September 2018, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
prr
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Finally got a chance to use the code reader and based on the advice of members in the Peake codes thread we cleared the codes and then re-scanned them. Prior to resetting we had several but the only one that has remained is 35, the electronic fan (relay). We suspect some other codes that initially came up will re-appear so we will check again over the next few days. Fortunately the car seems to remain cool so and drives now are not very far so this does not seem to be an urgent repair.

For those reading, any advice on which projects to try and tackle first? Looks like O2 sensors and MAFs are relatively straightforward but am wondering if there is anything that looks like it needs to be addressed asap in anyone's opinion.
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post #12 of 24 Old 19th September 2018, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prr View Post
For those reading, any advice on which projects to try and tackle first? Looks like O2 sensors and MAFs are relatively straightforward but am wondering if there is anything that looks like it needs to be addressed asap in anyone's opinion.

Replace the timing chain tensioner.

'03 M5 | 987.2 Cayman | @kian.ski
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post #13 of 24 Old 26th September 2018, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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The CEL came on a couple days ago but fortunately just showed two codes:

35 which it had before and e8, the evap purge valve.

Neither of these things seem super urgent to fix no?
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post #14 of 24 Old 26th September 2018, 12:07 PM
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The fan relay could mean your ‘pusher’ fan is in the way out - the electric fan by radiator...

They are PWM controlled and being situated where they are, tend to get water ingress into the electronics, frying them over time. If your in a warm climate this is used by the AC to help drive air over the evaporator.

Worth checking your brakes for corrosion, even wear etc as a PM. The sliders especially on the front can get sticky and cause uneven wear. While your under there, sway bar brackets getting broken is a classic ‘e39 M5 with miles’ issue - they are aluminium and get weaker with age it seems, though they were a bit inadequate to begin with. I replaced mine with steel BMW ones from another model.

Hoping being in LA means your car has minimal rust issues - becoming an issue now for us living in more variable climates...

Chain tensioner as someone else mentioned - due now if not already done and a bit of insurance against chain guide breakage.

Otherwise just drive it, enjoy it and see what happens :-)


Simon

Last edited by curtissp321; 26th September 2018 at 12:10 PM.
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post #15 of 24 Old 14th January 2019, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
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This weekend we took the plunge and installed an Xtrons unit in the Mu5. I daily drive it and the 6 cd's in the changer were getting quite old and I have heard all the pop songs on the radio about 50 too many times so we decided it was time to upgrade the stereo. We ordered an Xtrons PB7839BP and the related equipment- the Resler interface, the fakra extensions for the nav and the radio antenna and the cable that connects to the existing radio harness in the trunk. We also ordered the OBD II bluetooth device. Below I will post some pictures of the install but to start it is so far a vast improvement over stock. The sound is better, the nav is better, I can access any song I would like at anytime and I can see many of the car's engine parameters in real time on the screen as I drive around. The install is hard and took us the better part of the weekend, most of which is taking the car and trunk interior apart and putting it back together. I will have more thoughts as I get more used to the unit, but lets look at some pictures.

Step 1: Remove the rear seat - this comes out with a firm tug up. Also need to remove the back rests, which have two bolts on each side and then it slides up.



Step 2. Prep the trunk:



Note the cables go through the pass through here:





Step 3: Disassemble the dash glove box first, then take out trim and lower the dash. You also need to remove the dead pedal and the dash under the steering wheel to run the wires.




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post #16 of 24 Old 14th January 2019, 07:04 AM Thread Starter
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More photos of the dash disassembly:







To run the wires you need to remove the moldings that go over the carpet. For the one near the rear seat there is a bolt which you will remove to remove the seat back anyway and the one in the front seat comes up with a sharp tug.





Step 4: Hook up wires in the trunk- remove the nav, cd changer and radio. The large cable goes to the harness that was in the radio, the fakra cables hook up to the nav antenna and the radio antenna:





Step 6: Prepare the resler interface. Cut off the extra connector on the radio harness and solder it in. Make sure you follow the correct color scheme.





After this, run the cables under the carpet on the side of the doors, under the steering column and into the radio area, hook everything up and test it out:

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post #17 of 24 Old 14th January 2019, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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And of course the final product:



Its a long but worthwhile project. There are a lot of screws to remove and the disasembly and reassembly are quite a puzzle but if you stay organized and try to take photos as you go, it will be fine. The other threads on this were really helpful so anyone who comes across this is more than welcome to reach out. I am happy to answer any questions.

Next steps- one of my M Audio subs is blown. Any ideas for replacements?
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post #18 of 24 Old 14th January 2019, 01:45 PM
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post #19 of 24 Old 14th January 2019, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
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Next steps- one of my M Audio subs is blown. Any ideas for replacements?
Search the forum, you will see a lot of discussion on this topic.
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post #20 of 24 Old 14th January 2019, 08:20 PM
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Garage
Also not seeing photos.

Cars
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2004 Honda S2000 - Sold
1991 Porsche 911 - Sold
1991 Audi 90 - Sold
2006 Subaru Sti - Sold
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Motorcycles
1994 Yamaha YZFR750 - Sold
2003 Honda CBR954RR - Sold
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