Trizzuth's 2003 E39 M5 Maintenance Thread - Page 5 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #41 of 198 Old 3rd November 2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CSBM5 View Post
Once you get the drivetrain under control, we can revisit the hesitation. Then you can really evaluate the car under normal to WOT conditions. It's always possible a CPS has issues even though it's not thrown a code yet, or the MAFs are dirty, etc, etc.
I haven't touched my MAF's yet, but I do have an almost full can of CRC MAF cleaner in the garage.. might give that a try just cause.
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post #42 of 198 Old 3rd November 2017, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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Topped off the diff with new fluid, here’s what it took (empty part of bottle) no real good idea how long it’s been leaking for but I will keep a close eye on it. I already have everything for the pinion seal replacement on order..

It actually took a bit less as when I lowered the car down on the jack so it was level a bunch more streamed out.

To my surprise Even though the new plugs I have are 14 mm the existing ones were 12 mm good thing I had a 12 mm Allen socket in my til drawer!




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post #43 of 198 Old 5th November 2017, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Trizzuth View Post
Nice to see a fellow masshole with an M5 close to me! I am in Fairhaven.

Those are the exact exhaust brackets I bought, make sure you get new bolts too, you will need them. You may also want to inspect the small metal clips that hold the O2 sensor wires to the heat shield, several of mine were rusted out and weren't even holding the wires anymore, it's a cheap addition to your order and LIFETIME from FCP!
Sorry for the late response. I know Fairhaven pretty well. I went to school at UMD and spent more time than I care to admit at the Bridge Street Station in my younger years. Also at that other bar that's up the street just over the bridge into NB. Anyway, thanks for the info, I will order some of those. When changing the transmission fluid last weekend, I looked at them again, and one of them is completely rusted out, not supporting the exhaust at all. Weird because everything else I can see is clean. The O2 sensor clips are fine. It actually all looks really good for the mileage, except those brackets.

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Did you do the diff seals yourself? How bad was that job? Did you need to remove the entire diff from the car? I assume that's the only way to get this done.
I did not. There are certain jobs that I will not perform knowing my level of skill and patience. If I had a lift, I may attempt more, but it was worth it to me to pay for that job. I take my cars to a shop in southern NH for items like those. They did remove the entire diff to perform it, as there is no easy way to do the seals without doing so.

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And hey, I just bought one of these (wanted 2 but only 1 in stock) to get the car higher and safer. Seems legit, but have not used yet. $40 at Tractor Supply, so don't pay $64 on Amazon, or elsewhere. The home depot website also had them for like $36, but they say out of stock online and in the stores.
Product looks decent. Didn't know they had an all in one unit like that. Very nice. Seems too cheap?!? Let me know your impressions when you use it. Thanks.

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post #44 of 198 Old 8th November 2017, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Parts came in!




And some lifetime FCP (my febi guibo is stamped with “SGF” and was cheaper by a little than the one the driveshaft place was offering - confirming they seem to be the only manufacturer that makes them) plus it is now lifetime.







I normally don’t like Victor Reinz stuff but that was the only brand they had for the exhaust gaskets and they seem like hard pieces so I’m not worried, plus they’re lifetime..

Will tackle this large job soon... Going to test some of the tools I have to see if I can use them for pressing in the bushing or pinion seal..


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post #45 of 198 Old 8th November 2017, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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Tossing this reply in here from Pau Hana's thread on replacing the driveshaft without dropping the exhaust:

---Quote (Originally by Trizzuth)---
Hi Pau,

I have this reman'd driveshaft sitting at my house in a box right now. I took it out and inspected it and it looks legit!

One obvious question, normally when people remove the driveshaft to replace just the guibo, or CSB, they mark the guibo so they are sure to mate the driveshaft back to the guibo in the exact same spot. I assume this is not necessary (as long as the guibo is installed properly) when putting in the rebuilt driveshaft sice my guibo is new, CSB is new and rear CV joint is also new, correct?

I have the correct gasket for the diff and will also be doing the rear pinion seal in the diff while the exhaust and driveshaft are off the car. Thanks!
---End Quote---
Correct, sir! The hardest part is ensuring the guibo is installed correctly. The driveshaft is an easy R&R otherwise.

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post #46 of 198 Old 20th November 2017, 03:18 AM Thread Starter
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So after debating whether or not to do these jobs in my driveway I ended up going to my friends garage because it started to get a little colder outside. Went over got there Saturday morning at 7:30am ended up getting home at 7:30 PM. Exhaust came off surprisingly quick but it was superheavy all of you guys were right who have done this before. Surprisingly my center bearing was not totally torn through and actually looked not bad visually I have no idea why it was knocking so bad but it was really getting worse every day maybe the shaft was very much out of balance for some reason?

Diff pinion Seal was pretty straightforward and you don’t need any BMW special tools to do the job, I used a large bearing cup to press it in and it pulled out with a small pick. All the instructions on here were very helpful I was well prepared for this job.

So as of right now new Guibo, new driveshaft, new center bearing, new CV joint, new u joint, new diff pinion seal, all new exhaust hardware at the flange, fresh lifetime FCP diff fluid and this car drives AMAZING!! All small vibrations gone, seems like hesitation may have been related as that is pretty much gone, drives and engages do smooth now.. about $800-900 all in after my driveshaft core return, and I still have the spare diff bushing because the old one looked good so I did not touch that.

Tranny mounts look good. Shifter bushings look ok, some slight slop but nothing worth getting into even with all that out. Shifts great. BMW quoted me $2400 for that work and they were only going to replace the center bearing not the entire driveshaft...

Only took a few pics was so busy laying under car all day:






Maybe the u joint was stiff and bad since there is grease flung here? Felt loose and ok when I took it out..




Last thing. After we went for a good long test drive, came back to my friends house to hang out for a bit then I want to start the car to go home and the check engine light came on!

I remembered from reading other posts about the O2 sensor swap so we checked the codes and it was the passenger side sensors swapped, quick fix and I was on the road and no problems. I was glad I took this picture before hand, one of the few that I took...



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post #47 of 198 Old 20th November 2017, 03:21 AM Thread Starter
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Trizzuth's 2003 E39 M5 Maintenance Thread

Now I have a new m badge coming in, but I took this pic today and the 5 looks off too, what do you think? Are both off the horizontal plane? This shitty alignment has been on my nerves ever since I bought the car..




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Last edited by Trizzuth; 20th November 2017 at 03:22 AM.
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post #48 of 198 Old 20th November 2017, 03:24 AM Thread Starter
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Jesus here is an OE pic mine is waaay off how embarrassing!!!



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post #49 of 198 Old 20th November 2017, 03:39 AM
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Nice work, thanks for sharing the work on your M!


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post #50 of 198 Old 20th November 2017, 02:40 PM
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Jesus here is an OE pic mine is waaay off how embarrassing!!!
M5board to the rescue: https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...placement.html

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