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post #31 of 178 Old 30th October 2017, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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AHh, and just as I research parts needed to do the driveshaft replacement myself, I felt like reviewing the pic I took of my guibo when under the car the other day to see how my bolts were. All looked fine, but to my surprise, all were going in the same direction! White mark on Guibo too, so I'm thinking that when this car was being repaired from it's accident, they removed the driveshaft and then the morons who reinstalled it did not do it properly and inserted all bolts in the same direction, potentially causing the cracks that are now on the guibo! Now it makes me want to do this job myself even more as I don't want anyone touching this car with their incapable hands! Pics coming in a few...
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post #32 of 178 Old 30th October 2017, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Idiots



Zoom in to see the cracks in the rubber. Nothing catastrophic and maybe even normal if this is the original one, but just angered by improper install...


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Old: 2001 E46 330i Steel-Grey Metallic (Totalled)
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post #33 of 178 Old 30th October 2017, 05:26 PM Thread Starter
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This find also makes me think that maybe, just maybe my center support bearing is just loose? I am borrowing a friend's inspection camera tomorrow and will take a look to hopefully see it and determine if it's just bad or loose. Imagine it's just loose and I just need to drop the exhaust a little and lower the heat shield and tighten it? Can't possibly be that easy, but at least I will know by looking at it rather than having to drop the exhaust and shield just to take a peek.
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post #34 of 178 Old 31st October 2017, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Trizzuth's 2003 E39 M5 Maintenance Thread

Correction, I am the dumb one, that guibo is indeed installed correctly. Arrows pointing toward ears on the driveshaft or tranny and all bolts ok to go in the same direction. But must only tighten the side (nut or bolt) that’s against the ear/flange so the rubber does not twist.

Lol reading my earlier post I sound like such a fool!

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Last edited by Trizzuth; 31st October 2017 at 01:40 AM.
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post #35 of 178 Old 3rd November 2017, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
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Aannnnnd here’s my first “recommended action plan” from the dealer! Lol.





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post #36 of 178 Old 3rd November 2017, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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So get this gents... I see this estimate, and then ask the service rep if I could talk to the mechanic to see how bad the diff was leaking to tell if they topped it off (he said they did not as the fill plug was inaccessible, HA), and to ask questions about what it means when a release bearing goes bad on a clutch. The other dealer specific sheet that had my airbag recall info on it says "can hear release bearing making noise when vehicle is cold, see attached sheet."

I basically just wanted to know if I can buy myself a little time with these issues, or if I need to do something ASAP.

Service rep goes and gets the head mechanic, says "this is THE GUY you want to talk to." I speak to him a minute, he immediately goes in the back to get a flashlight and is laying on the ground under my car while it's in the service bay ready for me to take home. Says, Yup diff leaking from pinion seal, between a weep and a gush, but def not a gush and has fluid, and explained that if it goes bad and has a catastrophic failure, it happens while driving, so just make sure it has good fluid and do it as soon as you can. Told him I had an entire diff fluid change kit at home with both plugs and was going to top off today. OK, fine.

Then I make him listen to the "springy" noise my clutch makes when depressing and releasing, in neutral, or in gear, happens all the time. He listens, gets in the car, shifts into first and goes forward, putting some pressure on e-brake then goes backwards and immediately says "that's not the release bearing, that would make a high pitched sound that gets better as soon as you depress the clutch and it is always there." He tells me he's almost certain that it's the fingers or the springs on the clutch plate that have rusted a little and are now somewhat creaky because the car has obviously spent a lot of time sitting with PO, but basically nothing to worry about as clutch operation is fine. Maybe it gets better over time, who knows. I only hear that noise when it's super quiet and the car is off, as soon as it's on, I never hear it, so nice, $4700 off that bill, HA! (P.S. that was "worst case scenario" clutch job, with clutch kit, flywheel, and labor).

So as of right now, I have the rebuilt driveshaft with center bearing installed on it's way to me (thanks to the guy from the recent thread who installed this without dropping the exhaust for that business hookup!). That will be here Tuesday. I will attempt to replace the diff pinion seal while the driveshaft is out of the car, and am now gathering as many lifetime FCP parts as I can for this job.

Two questions: Is #6 here the front differential bushing?


Second question, does anyone have any idea why there is a comment on #11 here (securing plate - seems like this is the flange nut you need to mark and remove and reinstall in exactly the same spot) that says "Important! Drive flange and nut must Not be replaced!" ?? Should I NOT replace this flange nut? It's covered in grease so I'd assume it's fine to re-use.. just trying to figure out all the parts I should replace while I do this. Currently from this pic I have: #12 and 14 (what is #13?)
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post #37 of 178 Old 3rd November 2017, 03:36 PM
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That noise on clutch actuation is typical E39 M5/540i stuff. It's either the pp springs as he stated or more likely it's the guide bush wear (throwout bearing rides on the guide bush -- make sure you put in a new one when you do the clutch). If it is quiet (or not as loud) when cold but makes more noise when fully warmed/hot, it's typical. You don't need to really worry about it for the most part other than sounding like an old sailing ship when actuating the clutch. The clutch replacement job quote is beyond insane as I'm sure you know, but it's hard to imagine someone paying $5k to a dealer for such.

Similarly, the quote for the diff is crazy too. Heck, you could get a freshly rebuilt LSD M5 diff from diffsonline for $1799 and swap it in easily. This would come with fresh clutch plates and new seals all around.

As to the hesitation, it's hard to understand exactly what you're referring to. Perhaps a video showing the tach would help. The stock throttle mapping for North American delivered M5s is pretty horrid (very non-linear). Driving the car smoothly in 1st and performing a smooth 1-2 upshift is difficult to master from my memory banks. Tunes which include the Euro throttle map are very nice. The NA map was apparently a "tune to test" designed to either meet emissions or fuel economy testing goals (or both) -- at least that's been the assumption of many over the years.

It's great to see yet another E39 M5 being refurbished and having some care sent its way!

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post #38 of 178 Old 3rd November 2017, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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^^ Thanks for the reply and the info Chuck! I am not touching the clutch at this time due to the master tech's advice on the noise as it does engage and disengage fine, and the sound is always there at the same level of noise when I step on the clutch, does not get worse or better with fully warm.

I asked them about the hesitation and they came back with nothing, just have to get used to it, or maybe eventually a tune. Feels sort of like vanos seals issue to me, but is not bad in Sport mode. Mostly, I've been gingerly driving this thing because of the bad CSB and driveshaft slapping the tunnel and rear diff leaking! Once that's all buttoned up I will give this car a good thrashing once and for all!

The 1-2 shift on my E46 was never good and kinda jerky the entire time I had that car too, must be a BMW throttle map thing.
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post #39 of 178 Old 3rd November 2017, 04:12 PM
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Once you get the drivetrain under control, we can revisit the hesitation. Then you can really evaluate the car under normal to WOT conditions. It's always possible a CPS has issues even though it's not thrown a code yet, or the MAFs are dirty, etc, etc.

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2007 328i wagon Silver/gray: Eibach 28mm front swaybar, E93 M3 rear swaybar, 219M M3 wheels, Michelin PSAS3+
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post #40 of 178 Old 3rd November 2017, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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