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post #21 of 178 Old 12th October 2017, 02:21 PM
Pau_Hana
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No E60 here, kind sir! I have a 2003 E39 M5.

We have pretty clean fuel up here in the PNW as well, but 14 years is a long time for the filter to catch debris. I didn't cut the filter apart, but the hesitation completely went away after the filter change.
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post #22 of 178 Old 12th October 2017, 02:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pau_Hana View Post
No E60 here, kind sir! I have a 2003 E39 M5.

We have pretty clean fuel up here in the PNW as well, but 14 years is a long time for the filter to catch debris. I didn't cut the filter apart, but the hesitation completely went away after the filter change.
I was just going by your avatar image of that E60, so pardon me.

Hmmm interesting. I'm sure it would also stress the fuel pump if it was clogged as well. Strange that I don't seem to have much hesitation in sport mode though. I will continue testing driving it in sport mode every time I am in the car and see if that really makes a difference. 14 years is also a long time for a fuel pump.
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post #23 of 178 Old 16th October 2017, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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My new (used) rear subframe braces came in from Clemster! Gave them some Eastwood rust encapsulation treatment on whatever light surface rust there was, and put them in. Also seems like the Entire rear subframe was replaced when this car took a hit to the left rear quarter back in 2006 the only other damage I could see other than the subframe bars being bent was a small dent in the underside of the frame rail on the drivers side.

Old left New right...



Subframe sticker..


Also looks like my diff is a little leaky..




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New (old): 2003 E39 M5 TiAG
Old: 2001 E46 330i Steel-Grey Metallic (Totalled)
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post #24 of 178 Old 17th October 2017, 02:09 AM
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List price for that bare subframe (well, it does include bushings) is nearly $2000!

- Darrell

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post #25 of 178 Old 17th October 2017, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rontgen View Post
List price for that bare subframe (well, it does include bushings) is nearly $2000!
I know! the first thing I did was look it up... at least I know the bushings in there have around 50K miles, and are not what the factory put in originally. Might buy me some time when all is said and done, but really what it makes me do is cringe at what kind of accident this car was really in back in 2006.
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post #26 of 178 Old 27th October 2017, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Lucky me! Bout a month in of ownership and I am pretty sure I have this issue. Backed the car up on ramps last night in the cold wet rainy ground, got on my back to take a look and everything was solid underneath, but I did notice my diff was leaking a lot of fluid, and guibo while ok has some visible cracks. Car going to the dealer on Thursday for the airbag recall may have them just confirm this is what the problem is (rule out any issues with the diff other than leaking fluid and it needing new seals and a front bushing), but I am 99% sure right now. Only happens when car is cold started and I drive down the road on my way to work, once car gets up to speed, the rotational mass of the driveshaft seems to center itself out good. Also, once the car is warm and I assume this rubber warms up, the knocking does not occur. I can instantly feel it in the morning when I place my hand on the carpet between the rear seats.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9QRsvkLGnM

If that is indeed my issue, I think I am going to get a rebuilt driveshaft with CSB installed and new guibo and do the entire thing.
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post #27 of 178 Old 28th October 2017, 04:41 AM
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Fellow Masshole here,
Just recently picked up a 140k mile 02 M5, jet black on caramel, and have done a few things to it maintenance wise so far; guibo, diff seals, mounts, and fluid, and minor things like air and cabin filters. Last weekend I swapped out the shifter and boot for the F10 M5 shifter and boot. Just today I resealed the rear door vapor barriers and replaced the door lock actuators while in there. I am planning to do the transmission fluid tomorrow. But I am also having that hesitation issue in 1st and 2nd gear, so trying to figure out what it is. Didn't think of the fuel filter. Maybe I will order one of those and try that. Just a pain to get this car in the air to do all this maintenance. Anyway, if you figure out the hesitation (my vanos is also quiet), let me know, I appreciate it. Thanks!

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post #28 of 178 Old 28th October 2017, 04:50 AM
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Also, is this the bracket you ordered? Because both of mine need to be replaced also. Want to make sure I ordered the right part.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...m5-18301407091

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post #29 of 178 Old 30th October 2017, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Nice to see a fellow masshole with an M5 close to me! I am in Fairhaven.

Those are the exact exhaust brackets I bought, make sure you get new bolts too, you will need them. You may also want to inspect the small metal clips that hold the O2 sensor wires to the heat shield, several of mine were rusted out and weren't even holding the wires anymore, it's a cheap addition to your order and LIFETIME from FCP!

The more and more I read, the more and more I think that the hesitation may be a "thing" with this car, as many many people have replaced tons of parts only to have it still be there. Others say the only way to somewhat make it better is the Evolve Alpha N tune, or another tune. I had some vanos hesitation in my E46, but it wasn't nearly as bad as what I am experiencing in this car, and you'd think that would manifest itself in all gears.

I'm wondering if mine feels worse because my CSB is so so so bad right now. I also think that the rear end suspension rub I felt over deep compression hits, was actually my driveshaft rubbing against the transmission tunnel! It goes away once the car is warm, but there is a deep bump I hit a few times coming into my work parking lot slowly that has caused what sounds like a tire rubbing on a plastic shield, or shock, it was a definite something's moving and then rubbing noise. Now I think what was happening is that the sudden bounce pushed the driveshaft into the transmission tunnel for a quick rub because the CSB is so bad. This is the same type of knocking I get when starting the car and driving it cold in 1 and 2 first thing in the morning, although a slightly higher pitch and louder because of the larger bump.

Car going in on Thursday, I will have them check everything out, and quote me prices. If it's astronomical, I will do what I can myself.

Did you do the diff seals yourself? How bad was that job? Did you need to remove the entire diff from the car? I assume that's the only way to get this done.

And hey, I just bought one of these (wanted 2 but only 1 in stock) to get the car higher and safer. Seems legit, but have not used yet.



$40 at Tractor Supply, so don't pay $64 on Amazon, or elsewhere. The home depot website also had them for like $36, but they say out of stock online and in the stores.

Last edited by Trizzuth; 30th October 2017 at 01:33 PM.
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post #30 of 178 Old 30th October 2017, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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Also just for a personal note for my thread, the driver's rear tire was at 15psi this weekend! I pulled the wheel off and inspected closely all around and it seems fine. I will keep an eye on this one for sure.
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