2000 Imola M5 Journal/Build Thread (Long and picture heavy) - Page 7 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #61 of 178 Old 7th October 2017, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
TexaZ3
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Under the hood there were several things that needed attention. After thorough inspection, I saw some old fluid leaks that were not cleaned up (ABS module was replaced due to leak sometime ago, and remaining fluid was still there, same with power steering reservoir/lines – these were fixed at some point, but the residual fluid was still everywhere), there were few worn and broken bits, and some panels that were deteriorating and needed to be replaced. Finally, I planned on changing all the filters, and do an oil change. Below are few shots of the condition the engine bay was when I got the car:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

The firewall covers were absolutely destroyed. Chunks of these were actually lodged between the back of the block and the firewall! Note missing caps on the wiper arm.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Since previous owner gave me windshield cowl with the car, this is where I started. Looks like he already replaced the bits around the cowl and windshield, but cowl replacement required pulling wiper arms, and was a bit involved. I have pulled wipers:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Old cowling is out:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

New cowl (Steve also included new rivets, which is mighty nice of him):

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Installed:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Then I turned my attention to the firewall covers – old bits were removed – they literally were crumbling under my fingers. Not much were left of them when they were removed:
Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Hood sensor ear was broken off and the switch was just laying there. I decided against spending $150 on the new cabin filter housing, and just superglued the switch to the remaining ear and zip-tied it for extra strength. Should work for now, maybe later on I will get new housing.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Washer fluid cap was cracked and not holding on to the bottle neck, so I replaced it with new OEM piece:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Oil was changed – went with Liqui Molly 10w60 as a heard a lot of good things about this oil (I use Castrol in my M6), Mann filter, pretty straightforward job:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Also changed both cabin and air filters with Mann cartridges. Air filters in the car were K&N units that needed oiling and were pretty dirty. I know these are re-usable, so kept them and maybe will clean and use them later.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Housings were thoroughly cleaned before new filters installation:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Gaskets and foam under the cabin filter housings were pretty deteriorated and dirty, so I decided to replace that as well after good engine cleaning:

by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Ports were stuffed with some rags so the water does not seep inside. After that I gave it the engine bay a quick wash, then soaked every possible nook with simple green, and let it sit for about 20 minutes.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Took about 2 hours of scrubbing, brushing, and blasting the engine and every panel with my trusty Karcher to get all the grime, dirt, residues, and who knows what else off the engine. Foam pieces under the housings were replaced:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Housings and firewall covers installed, new filters are in:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Got wiper arm covers and a rear door handle cover from Clemster:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

New M-badge:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

And FINALLY, after hours of additional cleaning, the engine bay is looking the way it is supposed to for a car like this:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Finally, got some bling:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Trunk is next, while I’m deciding on suspension pieces and waiting for a few parts to arrive.

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post #62 of 178 Old 8th October 2017, 04:22 AM
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Excellent work! It's so satisfying seeing engine bays come to life. Just need to get a new expansion tank.

When I did the VCG, I noticed some of the electrical connections weren't in great shape due to heat, and so I'm paranoid about washing the bay. Did you take extra precaution and wrap any electric connectors with plastic or anything? Also I'm assuming your power washer has a narrow nozzle option so you can control the flow?

My firewall is also in rough shape but not as bad as yours. I haven't looked closely at it yet but does anything need to be removed to get it out?

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post #63 of 178 Old 8th October 2017, 05:37 AM
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FYI a cabin filter from any other junk E39 will work. As mentioned previously, you can also PM Clemster (Adam). I'm sure he'll have a lot of a little things that you can use. Great thread!
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post #64 of 178 Old 8th October 2017, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiznarsh View Post
Excellent work! It's so satisfying seeing engine bays come to life. Just need to get a new expansion tank.

When I did the VCG, I noticed some of the electrical connections weren't in great shape due to heat, and so I'm paranoid about washing the bay. Did you take extra precaution and wrap any electric connectors with plastic or anything? Also I'm assuming your power washer has a narrow nozzle option so you can control the flow?

My firewall is also in rough shape but not as bad as yours. I haven't looked closely at it yet but does anything need to be removed to get it out?
Old expansion tank seems fine to me. I actually like the look of the old yellowed plastic! not sure how long this is going to last though, so it will be replaced at some point.

I have never covered anything or wrapped any components while washing engine bays. I have done it for 25 years now, and always used power washer on the highest setting and blast away to clean off stubborn dirt and grease. Obviously I don't spray directly into the generator, wires/connectors or electronic modules, but everything else is a fair game. Not once there was a problem - they seem to take these baths pretty well.

Firewall pieces are held by 3 twist-off clips, plastic plug, and a 4 metal clips on top. That's all, literally takes about 3 minutes to remove and the same time to install. Both pieces together are $94 shipped at ECS.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sup3r D View Post
FYI a cabin filter from any other junk E39 will work. As mentioned previously, you can also PM Clemster (Adam). I'm sure he'll have a lot of a little things that you can use. Great thread!
Yes, I got some bits from Adam. I think I'm fine with my solution for the time being, unless it breaks quickly. I'm dumping lots of $$ into the car right now to fix things that are needed, will address less important things later on.

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post #65 of 178 Old 9th October 2017, 04:44 AM
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Great story! Of all the models pictured, the e39 definitely stood out and had the best lines.

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post #66 of 178 Old 9th October 2017, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaZ3 View Post
Old expansion tank seems fine to me. I actually like the look of the old yellowed plastic! not sure how long this is going to last though, so it will be replaced at some point.

I have never covered anything or wrapped any components while washing engine bays. I have done it for 25 years now, and always used power washer on the highest setting and blast away to clean off stubborn dirt and grease. Obviously I don't spray directly into the generator, wires/connectors or electronic modules, but everything else is a fair game. Not once there was a problem - they seem to take these baths pretty well.

Firewall pieces are held by 3 twist-off clips, plastic plug, and a 4 metal clips on top. That's all, literally takes about 3 minutes to remove and the same time to install. Both pieces together are $94 shipped at ECS.



Yes, I got some bits from Adam. I think I'm fine with my solution for the time being, unless it breaks quickly. I'm dumping lots of $$ into the car right now to fix things that are needed, will address less important things later on.

Thanks!
Its really a good idea to have that coolant tank changed. You may think its cool in color but its an indicator that it should be changed or just a time bomb waiting to go off. Brittle plastic under pressure Hmmm?

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post #67 of 178 Old 9th October 2017, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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The pressure in the expansion tank is minimal. I will change it at some point, it's not critical right now.

I have another question - drove the car to work today, noticed some rattling sounds from back door cards it seems - but everything seems snug and no apparent loose stuff - is there anything inside that typically could get detached and rattle? I would hate to take off rear door panels for nothing.
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post #68 of 178 Old 9th October 2017, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexaZ3 View Post
The pressure in the expansion tank is minimal. I will change it at some point, it's not critical right now.



I have another question - drove the car to work today, noticed some rattling sounds from back door cards it seems - but everything seems snug and no apparent loose stuff - is there anything inside that typically could get detached and rattle? I would hate to take off rear door panels for nothing.


Potentially the pockets, the glue on these get brittle and need refurbishment. Also there may be some broken clips on the panels themselves?


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post #69 of 178 Old 9th October 2017, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will check door pockets. If I end up pulling door panels off - anything I need to be aware of or is this just like any other door cards? Take the door handle, pull the panel off? Anything I need to do for the sunshades?
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post #70 of 178 Old 9th October 2017, 11:11 PM
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Thanks, I will check door pockets. If I end up pulling door panels off - anything I need to be aware of or is this just like any other door cards? Take the door handle, pull the panel off? Anything I need to do for the sunshades?
While you have the panels off check the seal of the vapor barriers. It's common for the rear door vapor barriers to be leaking, allowing water to travel into the rear foot wells. There's 2 camps, 1 says use 3M polybutylene to reseal, and the other says use Sicone. Other common failures in the doors are lock actuators and window regulators. This leads to the vapor barriers being pulled off for access, and not resealed well. This is where the 2 camps differ, because if you need to open it again, do you want to deal with Silicone, or the butyl product which reportedly fails on its own. Look for water marks on the bottom of your panels for signs, or after a good wash check for dampness.

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