Driveshaft install question, and other banes of a clutch job - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #11 of 23 Old 31st July 2017, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
phtzer
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I hope you are right. I have already tried many different methods of bleeding:

1. Slave out, rod pushed all the way in with tool. Pump pedal 10 times then hold down, open bleeder...close bleeder. Top off reservoir, repeat.
2. Slave in, pump 10 times to pressurize system, hold pedal down. Open bleeder...close bleeder. Top off reservoir, repeat.
3. Slave in, attach pressure bleeder to reservoir. Pressurize system (no fluid in pressure bleeder, just to pressurize to 10psi). Open bleeder, pump pedal few times, close bleeder. Depressurize, top off reservoir, repeat.

Do you have other suggestions?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerTechB View Post
Sounds like the slave is not bled properly. Your pedal should feel like it did before any of this work was done. If it is not bled correctly you cannot engage or disengage the clutch all the way.
You can bleed the slave while it is installed. Just make sure the reservoir is all the way full before you start.



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Last edited by phtzer; 31st July 2017 at 02:19 AM. Reason: typo
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post #12 of 23 Old 31st July 2017, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phtzer View Post
I hope you are right. I have already tried many different methods of bleeding:

1. Slave out, rod pushed all the way in with tool. Pump pedal 10 times then hold down, open bleeder...close bleeder. Top off reservoir, repeat.
2. Slave in, pump 10 times to pressurize system, hold pedal down. Open bleeder...close bleeder. Top off reservoir, repeat.
3. Slave in, attach pressure bleeder to reservoir. Pressurize system (no fluid in pressure bleeder, just to pressurize to 10psi). Open bleeder, pump pedal few times, close bleeder. Depressurize, top off reservoir, repeat.

Do you have other suggestions?
Are you still getting air through the line? Pressure bleeder, used as you described, has always worked for me.

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post #13 of 23 Old 31st July 2017, 04:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerTechB View Post
Are you still getting air through the line? Pressure bleeder, used as you described, has always worked for me.

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I'm going to try the pressure bleeder again tomorrow morning. When you depressurize, do you usncrew the cap on the reservoir or the pump on the tool? Not sure if that step is introducing air into the system if my reservoir level is too low.
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post #14 of 23 Old 31st July 2017, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phtzer View Post
I'm going to try the pressure bleeder again tomorrow morning. When you depressurize, do you usncrew the cap on the reservoir or the pump on the tool? Not sure if that step is introducing air into the system if my reservoir level is too low.
Either is fine as both connections are above the hydraulic fluid. Air will only be introduced if the fluid in the rear of the reservoir is too low or if there is another leak downstream.

Are you installing a new slave cylinder or the old one?


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post #15 of 23 Old 31st July 2017, 04:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerTechB View Post
Either is fine as both connections are above the hydraulic fluid. Air will only be introduced if the fluid in the rear of the reservoir is too low or if there is another leak downstream.

Are you installing a new slave cylinder or the old one?


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This is a new slave. I forgot to mention, I took the slave out and pushed the rod slowly in and out with the reservoir cap loose. Supposedly this is a reverse bleed for air.
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post #16 of 23 Old 1st August 2017, 04:47 AM
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This is a new slave. I forgot to mention, I took the slave out and pushed the rod slowly in and out with the reservoir cap loose. Supposedly this is a reverse bleed for air.
Any luck today?

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post #17 of 23 Old 1st August 2017, 05:47 AM Thread Starter
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I tried one more bleeding method: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl5WQCgUjDc

No luck; then I had the brilliant idea to start prying the fork to try to engage the transmission and I dislodged the fork. Time to take every apart again :/

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Any luck today?

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post #18 of 23 Old 1st August 2017, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phtzer View Post
I fear either the fork is not seated properly
Do you hear any noises when you push the pedal in?
Not sure if this will help or just worry you wrongly. Had a guy from Ottawa send me his car after he did a clutch job himself. What I found was somehow the fork was in front of the bearing so when the pedal was pushed it was not moving the bearing but hitting the pressure plate. There was noise but not much. Not enough that I could figure it out until it came apart, but apart it was obvious.
Very similar symptoms to what you are saying.
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post #19 of 23 Old 1st August 2017, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sailor24 View Post
Do you hear any noises when you push the pedal in?
Not sure if this will help or just worry you wrongly. Had a guy from Ottawa send me his car after he did a clutch job himself. What I found was somehow the fork was in front of the bearing so when the pedal was pushed it was not moving the bearing but hitting the pressure plate. There was noise but not much. Not enough that I could figure it out until it came apart, but apart it was obvious.
Very similar symptoms to what you are saying.
Yes I near a small click. But I'm sure I installed the bearing in front of the fork.
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post #20 of 23 Old 2nd August 2017, 04:24 PM Thread Starter
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OK so this was the problem: pic
My pressure plate was in the original position and therefore there was no enough spring back for the throw out bearing. Those pins line up with holes in the flywheel, I must have missed that these pins were not depressed. Luckily the flywheel was not damaged.
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