I will give you two usual's because I did not really hear it in the motor, but I suck at videos. Rear exhaust mounts under the back seat. If orange likely noise maker for the cab if black then they are updated. Oil filter mounts same make more noise in the cab as the rpm rises. Rod bearings are fairly obvious they are loud outside and you get the sudden urge to shut the motor off now.
As far as the vanos noise goes at startup, it is very simple and the accum makes up for this fault but the fault is still the same. When you shut the motor off the noids close this should trap pressure around the Vanos piston. The noise is the vanos piston slapping the cover plate. If the noids leak then the oil leaks out allowing the slapping. I am not talking about holding a lot of pressure just keeping oil in around the piston.
You can tell how leaky by starting the engine warm in timed intervals after shutdown. 5 min no noise 20 min noisy 30 min very noisy. The closer to 5 min you get noise the worse they leak. They should not make noise except for a little rattle after sitting a day or so. If my car sits 3 days I get rattle on startup and it is a 2000.
Some noids just leak from wear but if they are still pretty good then you live with it.
Rear exhaust mounts are brand new. I replaced them about a month ago when I had the exhaust down to do Bank 1 manifold gaskets and driveshaft rebuild. Oil filter mounts are new as well and the sound doesn't emanate from either. The sound is quite loud anywhere above 1000rpms but most who hear it lean towards lifter. I'm curious if how the chain is slapping it is 'echoing' all around is mimicking something else.
I'll definitely soak and rebuild what I can in the VANOS when I pull it soon. It very well could be that but the "grooves" left by the chain on the Bank 2 cover show the chain is definitely making solid contact; and from the looks of it quite severe.
FYI the people currently installing a second hand motor for me have replaced the timing chain and reported the old one appears to be significantly stretched, to the extent that the tensioner couldn't take up all the slack - apparently they've taken a photo of the difference between the old and new chain, but I've not got it yet to post up.
Ouch that is no good but glad they caught it! I'm replacing the main, 2 cam chains and oil pump chain tool Might as well while I'm in there.
Better guides than crankshaft, no?
Guides are just time (and timing) - if you take a week and do some every day it's not too bad, I would imagine. I take that approach now on anything with my E60 M5. It just seems to make it easier to work through the unexpected roadblocks that keep coming up in a DIY on that car.
Yes definitely better guides than crankshaft! AI'm throwing around the idea of doing the rod bearings too since the car is at 148k. I kind of might as well since I'm in there and will be pulling the lower pan and oil pump already. I'd rather be safe than sorry and ensure I'm pulling any contaminants I can.
I wish I had the ability to do it all in one go but it likely will be an hour here, and hour there. I do agree sometimes that is a good way to do it and just break it out in chunks. I can prepare and research individual steps and hopefully not hit too many snags...