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E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #91 of 267 Old 24th July 2017, 02:23 AM
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I've since decided against powder coating them. I know it won't last as long but I prefer the satisfaction of doing it myself and not dealing with the additional expense and downtime. Since I'm not just painting over the original oil-soaked paint, it should come out pretty nice.


Did you decide on a color or are you staying with black? Are you doing the beauty covers to match?


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post #92 of 267 Old 24th July 2017, 04:45 AM Thread Starter
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Did you decide on a color or are you staying with black? Are you doing the beauty covers to match?


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I'm staying with black. I bought a can of this low-gloss black which should do the trick. I'll do what you did and sand the aluminum top of the beauty covers, then paint the rest.



My plenum cover is also going to be pretty clean now.



This is what happens when the landlord takes away the hose due to the drought.

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post #93 of 267 Old 24th July 2017, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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It looks like the rubber hoses that connect the hard lines to the lower plenum are part of the overall lower plenum assembly (part no. 11617831265). I'd like to replace them as they're cracked but I can't find their part numbers anywhere. I guess I can measure them and try to find similar ones, but does anyone know if they're sold separately?

Wanted to get some input before I cut off the clamps as the part number may be visible but "d01" doesn't make sense.




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post #94 of 267 Old 25th July 2017, 08:22 PM
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Well I can tell you I spent way too much of my life looking for this part number! It seems like one of those parts that was discontinued. There's just not anything on these drain lines or their associated parts. Best I could come up with, combining your pic and 1 from Redshift, was PN 11611406645. But that leads to nothing. Could be the 2 are from different years and so the PN I came up with is bogus. Redshift used BMW fuel line. Post 207 shows the part cracking like yours and post 214 shows his solution. His was for a FI car, but that shouldn't matter. Anyway, let us know if you find the part, or what solution you come up with. Thanks, I enjoy your thread.

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ml#post6465217

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post #95 of 267 Old 25th July 2017, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Well I can tell you I spent way too much of my life looking for this part number! It seems like one of those parts that was discontinued. There's just not anything on these drain lines or their associated parts. Best I could come up with, combining your pic and 1 from Redshift, was PN 11611406645. But that leads to nothing. Could be the 2 are from different years and so the PN I came up with is bogus. Redshift used BMW fuel line. Post 207 shows the part cracking like yours and post 214 shows his solution. His was for a FI car, but that shouldn't matter. Anyway, let us know if you find the part, or what solution you come up with. Thanks, I enjoy your thread.

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ml#post6465217
Nice find! I don't know how many different search terms I used before adding that last post. I think any stiff hose would be sufficient so I bet the BMW fuel line worked well. Actually, I'll send him a PM to see how it's holding up (though he probably hasn't checked it).

I think I may go for the spring-type clamps though.

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post #96 of 267 Old 1st August 2017, 03:56 AM Thread Starter
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I was supposed to be done by now, but somehow that didn't happen. Before putting the plenum back on, I want to clean the idle control valve. Need to do that with the car on but I wanted to take care of the stripped drain plug threads in the oil pan first, so decided on tackling that by installing a new pan.

But first I finished cleaning and painting the valve covers.

Sanding to bring out the luster.





Prepping the parts by covering the threads and holes.





I thought I had done a pretty good job of removing any oil residue given all the lacquer thinner and steel brush action, but apparently not since it was a bit streaky after the first coat. Ended up applying 3 coats (waiting 10 minutes between each coat) and overall it came out a'ight. Sprayed in the morning in the shade, then left it out to bake all afternoon, and this is how it looked in the evening thanks to the marine layer via the onshore flow.



Prior to painting one of the covers, I noticed I had nicked part of the sealing surface while taking it off. Ended up filling it in with epoxy and sanding it smooth.



Now to the oil pan and gasket.



I decided to make a template to keep track of the bolts based on a video from E39 source.



Before removing the pan, I decided to clean up the area. So much oily grime.









I used a combination of engine degreaser, "soapy wooder," and these cleaning wipes.



The servo on the left side looked like it was leaking but I bought new O-rings for both sides just in case.



I love how the instructions call for removing the 2, 10mm bolts and then simply "pulling it out." Yeah...just pull it out.



Finally got it off by prying on the flange, then repeated on the other side.



In this pic, I've already replaced the largest O-ring on the right side. You can kinda see how it's sitting slightly higher than the other 2. Right? Yeah, you can totally see it. For sure.



Pan removed and all bolts accounted for.



Oil pump revealed.



Say, how do you think this scratch happened? Aliens?



Time for a light, midnight snack.



Since I had the pan off, I took care of another "while I'm in there" item: oil pump chain tensioner:



Unsurprisingly, the tensioner has loosened a bit and the chain was hitting the side of the chain/sprocket cover. I accidently deleted the pic that shows the wear mark, but you'll see it eventually because I have to take it off again. More on that later.

I had read that you can swap out the tensioner without removing the pump, but also read the opposite. Decided to attempt replacing it in place since it's only held on by a circlip. I used a long screwdriver and tried to gently push it off while holding a magnet next to it. That was dumb idea.

As soon as I got it off, it just...it disappeared. Poof. Gone.

Now what?

I heard it land somewhere but couldn't see it. Alright, don't panic, worst case you'll just have to tear the engine apart. Ended up taking the oil pump off (pretty easy actually) and stuck my hand in the upper oil pan and magically found it.



With the pump out, now it's super accessible.



And since I had it out, I also replaced another O-ring that's inside the pipe below so now all 4 O-rings for the servo have been replaced.



Put it all back together and cleaned the mating surface.



Also replaced the gasket for the oil level sensor.



Put the pan back on and torqued all bolts first to 5 Nm (1 line), then to 10 Nm (2 lines).



So here's where I made the mistake: the chain tensioner ships with the spring separate from the plastic piece. When I inserted the spring, I noticed it was free to rotate and wasn't really captured. This made installing it a bit tricky with the chain and sprocket and I should've taken a closer look, but at this point it was around 4 am and I just thought the spring would snap into place. Well, no.

I kept the old tensioner to add to my collection of parts, and when viewing it last night, I noticed it's got tapered tabs that allow you to--you guessed it--snap the spring into place.



So I'll be removing everything again to fix it. Fortunately I didn't add any oil and by the time I was done, no more was dripping so it should be easier/cleaner this time around.

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post #97 of 267 Old 8th August 2017, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
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So I'll be removing everything again to fix it. Fortunately I didn't add any oil and by the time I was done, no more was dripping so it should be easier/cleaner this time around.
Silly me, thinking there won't be that much oil in the pan after having the lower pan off for over 8 hours...

On Saturday I tore it all apart to fix my mistake with the oil pump chain tensioner and was greeted with this,



Didn't expect that, but on the plus side none of it was leaking from the new drain plug. I checked the torque on it and it was 25 Nm so they do come pre-torqued.

Lowered the oil pump and notice how the spring isn't captured?



Hey look now it's captured.



Here's the chain wear on the cover that I mentioned earlier (108k miles now).



Took some pictures of the upper oil pan and crankshaft. No sludge here.





Oil pump reinstalled. I didn't realize the solenoid valves had to be removed for the oil pump to come down. Last time since I was taking them out anyway, it wasn't a big deal but I wasn't expecting that additional step. Much easier with new O-rings though.



Nut torqued to 47 Nm.



All buttoned up.



Looks pretty clean now. I installed a new gasket too.







Didn't have much time on Sunday so I taped the valve covers to preserve all that hard work! I imagine reinstallation to be a jolly good time.



Also gave the various nuts and washers a good cleaning to top things off.





Plan is to have the covers installed on Friday and then begin working on the throttle bodies and replacing parts under the plenum.

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Last edited by kiznarsh; 8th August 2017 at 04:28 AM.
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post #98 of 267 Old 14th August 2017, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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After losing a few pounds due to food poisoning on Thursday night, Friday was full of relaxation and hydration. It also meant 1 less day to finish the valve cover gaskets. Saturday rolls around and I start with installing the coil packs.

Pretty straightforward, but fate tried to mess with me. I bought 8 new ones and all of them had a 2016 production date. Except 1.



I randomly chose them from the box as I was installing them in order, and right when I was about to install it in the #8 slot, I noticed the one in my hand had an earlier build date. Can't make this stuff up! I know there shouldn't be any difference in terms of shelf life, but after going through the last ordeal of getting the stuck boot in #8, I wasn't taking any chances. Screw you fate.

Once that was all done, started with the passenger side cover. I even went out and bought Glycerin to appease both Gavin and the BMW TIS.





New gaskets for the beauty covers.



I had to wait 4 weeks to get this Drei Bond sealant (I know others use gray Permatex). The label made a solid job of mentioning how this can cause cancer.



Eventually got both covers installed. Looks niiiiiiice.



Then onto other areas.

Replaced the oil filter housing rubber mounts.



Throttle bodies open for cleaning. There was a decent amount of carbon buildup on the lower surface of the plates, but it wasn't too bad at all when I looked inside. Looks like it's been driven hard enough over the years to help minimize that.



New check valve and vacuum hoses.



More vacuum line replacement. The white plastic tube also had a 4-week lead time. Probably didn't need to replace that...



I bought a new fuel tank breather valve but I wasn't able to get the old one off. Partly due to fatigue, partly due to not having sufficient so I just left it for now.

The 3 hoses that attach to the manifold aren't sold separately but they're not special. Thanks to research by @Ibmotoren , I replaced them with 3/8" fuel line just as @Redshift did. Thanks!





Got new oil separators, associated hoses, and gaskets for the plenum.





While looking down in the abyss, I noticed what at first appeared to be skinny, dead rollie pollies. Turns out it's pieces of the plastic protection tubing that are flaking off. Wondering what I should use to replace them...



Wanted to clean the velocity stacks and was looking for something curvy and flexible. Fuel lines can be so versatile.



Got the plenum back on, torqued all 33 bolts, put velocity stack #1 on aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand stop.



Apparently I had gotten overzealous with tightening the hose clamp on the throttle body gasket for cylinder #2, causing the rubber to invade the personal space of the post, preventing me from getting the base of the velocity stack on.



G'night.

~~~~

Mornin'.

I took off the plenum, loosened the hose clamp on the bottom of the gasket and we're good!



Did some general cleaning along the way.





Started torquing everything down, first to 5 Nm, then to 10 Nm.



I ended up breaking pieces of the air duct base that gets locked into the firewall during removal. I tried to repair them, but no dice when I put them back in. The plastic is too tired now. Since it's captured with the cabin filter housing, I decided to leave them. They're not cheap to replace either. I'm sure I'm not the only one.



I replaced the oil filter (it's only been 5 months but might as well at this point) and started filling her up.





All set!



Hooked up the battery again and it started up with NO ISSUES at all! Checked underneath the car and all was dry:



I was expecting smoke based on the oil in the plug valleys but no...just your good ol' condensation.





At this point I'm letting the car idle and warm up a bit while I'm nervously looking for leaks. Then I get inside to rev it...





























































































Turned off the car, got back down on the ground and started wiping up the oil, and had this view for the next few minutes...



I know this isn't the end of the world or anything, it just sucks after 4 weeks of buildup.

On the plus side, the passenger side looks to be nice and dry. I'm trying to figure out where I went wrong...

It did take me 3 attempts to get the driver's side to fall in place and as far as I could see with a mirror, the half-moons were seated properly and I used the same amount of sealant as the other side. However I did have more trouble getting a couple of the nuts started that were closer to the firewall, so I'm guessing the corner (where there's no visibility) didn't make adequate contact or maybe it got pulled out of the slot in the cover and got pinched.

New gaskets and nylock nuts for the velocity stacks ordered. The saga continues.

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post #99 of 267 Old 14th August 2017, 01:49 PM
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Looked great until those last pics, sorry to see that.


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post #100 of 267 Old 14th August 2017, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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Looked great until those last pics, sorry to see that.


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Yeah it was going so well until the moment of truth.

How much sealant are people using?

I put roughly 1/8" bead along the entire back surface where the cutouts are. I still think the issue was bad placement of the gasket itself, but wondering if I'm using enough sealant too.

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