B9 , Exhaust camshaft Vanos position control - Page 7 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #61 of 107 Old 29th December 2016, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
vallibirgiss
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Yes positive (had O2 sensor unplugged , so that explains the O2 sensor codes )



One thing , the solenoids are just on/off right? open or closed

I believe pin 4 is the 12v to exhaust dump solenoid and 5 is ground.
If i disconnect the vanos boards and probe pin 4 and rev the motor a little , then i should see 12volts on right? or is it maybe pulsating?
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post #62 of 107 Old 29th December 2016, 09:21 PM Thread Starter
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Today i measured pin 4 on bank 1 , which i believe is the signal to open the solenoid .... result for bank 1 is 0 Volts

Did the same on bank 2 but measured pin 6 , i think that is the signal to open the outlet , results for bank 2 are 4-5 volts at idle and increases as i rev it up



If anyone could go out to their garage and disconnect their bank 1 vanos and measure the pin 4 voltage at idle that would be greatly appreciated

Last edited by vallibirgiss; 29th December 2016 at 09:30 PM.
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post #63 of 107 Old 29th December 2016, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vallibirgiss View Post
Today i measured pin 4 on bank 1 , which i believe is the signal to open the solenoid .... result for bank 1 is 0 Volts

Did the same on bank 2 but measured pin 6 , i think that is the signal to open the outlet , results for bank 2 are 4-5 volts at idle and increases as i rev it up



If anyone could go out to their garage and disconnect their bank 1 vanos and measure the pin 4 voltage at idle that would be greatly appreciated
You are comparing apples to oranges. On the wiring diagram the solenoids are labelled aus (exhaust) or ein (inlet) and either F or S which I don't know what those stand for but have to do with advance or retard. So you need to compare pin 4 on bank 1 with pin 3 on bank 2, then test pin 6 on bank 1 and compare to pin 1 on bank 2.
Pin 6 bank 2 which you tested is for one of the intake solenoids.

The solenoids are physically either open or closed but the DME sends PWM voltage to them.
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post #64 of 107 Old 30th December 2016, 03:54 AM
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You are doing this wrong. Don't unplug, stick the probe in the back of the plug or pierce the wire with a pin. They are fed with 12v but it is a PWM or pulse. Your meter will see 5v on average but it will vary ~4-7v. you need to test both solenoids because they often both operate at the same time. Compare your reads to the other bank but the same noid to the same noid as X said. If your cam is at low degrees then you need to test the inlet solenoids to see if they are letting oil in first.
So bank 1 pin 4 gets compared to bank 2 pin 3.
Then bank 1 pin 6 gets compared to bank 2 pin 1.
Use this diagram it is much clearer than the WDS diagram. This advanced retard thing they keep referring too is dumb. Think of it as inlet and outlet it is much easier to get your head around.
Name:  Vanos Board Schematic_V3.jpg
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post #65 of 107 Old 11th January 2017, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got the obd cable , was able to install INPA but not Dis always got Error 200.159 , anyone know's why?

Anyway i posted the sceenshots from inpa


I meassured the vanos pins , with it unplugged and meassured the engine side , can't see any diffrence if i back probe it or just disconnect.

All results are at Idle

Bank 1 PIN 4 = 1.4volts PIN 6 = 0.62volts

Bank 2 PIN 3 = 0.086volts PIN 1 = 0.086volts






Last edited by vallibirgiss; 11th January 2017 at 09:15 PM.
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post #66 of 107 Old 11th January 2017, 10:03 PM
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So the voltages on corresponding bank pins are different and camshaft angle is different. Plus you have a code telling you there is a broken wire. Pin 6 is reading lower voltage than all the rest. You need to inspect the connectors at both ends. It will be a black wire with yellow stripe. Look for a break or kink in the wire and corrosion at the connectors.
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post #67 of 107 Old 12th January 2017, 02:43 AM
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Now you have me totally confused. I am not seeing any exhaust Vanos codes although I do see some intake codes and I see that INPA has two different readings for the position of the cams. Those BTW are exhaust as INPA does not show the intakes.
Although the voltages look totally wrong to me it depends on your meter because the Volts are really 12v but pulsed, on my meter I see much higher voltages but scaled they would be about the same.

First you need to understand how the DME moves the piston when it wants to change the valve timing. It appears to open both inlet and outlet noids at the same time but at different bandwidths. To you the difference in bandwidth will show as different voltages. Although the 1.4v for the inlet makes no sense to me half that voltage for the outlet would be normal.
Not sure why you see any volts on Bank two because the DME is not adjusting the valve timing, but It could be a meter thing not sure. The vanos solenoids are only fed volts when the DME wants to move the timing. Under load while going through the gears you may see constant voltages because the rate of exhaust returned would always be changing, but at a constant load the EGR/Vanos is very stable.

So what I am seeing is the DME is trying to move the exhaust timing on bank 1 but it is not moving. We knew that though.

I just looked at my meter and I have a setting for ECU volts that might be why I see different volts than you. My meter is a Automotive meter and that scale may have a different circuit for reading pulses.

As I write I think I might be understanding the codes I am seeing but I am still a little puzzled. I assume you had some stuff unplugged? I still don't see why we don't have a code for the intake advanced valve or any codes for the exhaust, might be because you have the meter plugged into them but.... I have no clue.
This is the reason you back probe and don't unplug things. Because the signal is not always on to the noids if they are not plugged in then you will always have the DME trying to move the timing. Which brings me to... If you unplug bank 2 and start the car you should see similar volts as you are reading on bank 1 because the DME should be trying to move the timing because the timing should fall back to 0.60 when the engine is shut off.

Also where are you hooking the ground for your meter when doing these tests? You should try the pin on the board and another location like the body and confirm the readings are the exact same.

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post #68 of 107 Old 12th January 2017, 05:21 PM
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I agree, you should have things connected when measuring. The handheld DTC device shows an exhaust code and the INPA codes are intake. Surely INPA won't report an intake code when it is really an exhaust code. You said the B9 code remained after you switched boards to the other banks. Did you perhaps not clear codes and were seeing the old code? Because with code switching from exhaust to intake that has to be a board electrical issue like a broken wire, cold solder joint, or a fried MELF (diode).
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post #69 of 107 Old 21st January 2017, 04:49 AM Thread Starter
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Don't mind the INPA results , turned out that i pinched a wire on the inlet solenoid and that explains the error (all fixed now)

Still have the bank 1 B9 exhaust code tho.

One thing that i have noticed is that when over i take the vanos cover off , the solenoid marked as red in the picture(exhaust outlet) , always "pops" out , like that is has alot of pressure behind it, No other solenoid does this


Does that indicate anything ?
I belive that confirms that the outlet solenoid isnt opening and draining to sump , but why that solenoid dosen't open :@

Last edited by vallibirgiss; 21st January 2017 at 04:56 AM.
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post #70 of 107 Old 21st January 2017, 07:43 AM
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That is a good clue.

As you say, too much oil pressure overwhelming the o-rings for that solenoid.. I know a member on here 68FB had a failing vanos oil pressure regulator. Maybe your regulator is supplying way more than 1500psi, but is odd that the one solenoid is affected.

Does this solenoid perform like the others when you activate it? A clean and healthy solenoid should shoot cleaning solvent up during the cleaning process.

I notice you kept the gauze filters on, are they still in tact? If not then that solenoid maybe partially blocked? I would clean that offending solenoid thoroughly to be sure it's working properly. In rare cases they can't be fixed by the documented cleaning process though.
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