B9 , Exhaust camshaft Vanos position control - Page 3 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #21 of 107 Old 17th November 2016, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
vallibirgiss
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manualshifter: Thanks ! just read your thread and i will go out and check all grounds and such


If i cant find any faults in the wiring il guess i will swap the vanos units (not just the boards) side to side and see if the ticking noise and error code will move with it to bank 2
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post #22 of 107 Old 17th November 2016, 04:23 PM
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You can't swap the VANOS units side for side. They are mirror image. But you can refurb them once they are out.
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post #23 of 107 Old 17th November 2016, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
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According to Beisan procedure they are

"Note: Vanos units are same and interchangeable, but itís best practice to maintain vanos to engine head association. Vanos is originally oriented with vanos sticker to bottom."
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post #24 of 107 Old 17th November 2016, 06:13 PM
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post #25 of 107 Old 17th November 2016, 07:00 PM
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Vanos unit are the same. The orientation of the solenoids in the vanos is different between left and right which is why they have different part numbers.
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post #26 of 107 Old 18th November 2016, 03:05 AM
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They did the same with the pistons. Claiming they were different in each bank. We now know that is untrue, but if you have different pistons you would also need different vanos units.
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post #27 of 107 Old 19th November 2016, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Update : I'm 90 % sure that the wiring is ok after spending about 4 hours looking through everything , so i decided to pull the vanos bank 1 unit off.

Intake timing is spot on and the piston sit flush with the end of the bore, when i try to put the exhaust to inital timing it lands on a hard stop and the timing mark is off by a little and the piston is about 14mm inside the bore (see pictures)
So two thing could be happening i think ,, one way is that the timing on the exhaust is off (could that be the source of the code and the ticking?) [B]OR[B] the splines are getting jammed or stuck so i cant retard it all
the way

Is it right that i cant get the vanos unit off (with out disturbing timing) unless i get the piston all the way flush to allow movement for the 7mm and 10 mm keys?


The problem is almost identical as in this thread
https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/479226-help-bought-another-m5-vanos-bank-1-issues-ticking-sound-idle.html




Last edited by vallibirgiss; 19th November 2016 at 02:27 PM.
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post #28 of 107 Old 19th November 2016, 07:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Was finally able to remove the vanos unit (the whole unit with splines) , i was able to loosen the 3 hubolts and then i could but the exhaust camshaft to it's initial postion

Just order the S62 Vanos seal repair kit , and Rattle kit from Beisan along with all new solenoid O-rings , hoping that can solve my problem , either way it's gonna be a calm of mind knowing that everything in the vanos department is 100 % , doing valve cover gasket and changing the 2 intake cps aswell since i already renewed the exhaust earlier

I'm thinking the problem is somewhere in the spring plates (as described in the thread i noted before)

But one think , while i did the vanos removal with locking cams etc , i only focused on bank 1 and didn't even open the bank 2 , but now i'm obviously gonna be removing the vanos bank 2 unit to upgrade the plates.
How do i go about this when i have locked the bank 1 cams ?

Must i remove the cam locking pins and turn the engine to TDC overlap , loosen the 3 hubolts on bank 2, turn it to TDC ign , lock both cam on bank 1 & 2 , then go on and loosening the rest of the bolts and removing bank 2 unit?
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post #29 of 107 Old 20th November 2016, 06:48 AM
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You shouldn't have to loosen the hub bolts to remove the vanos. You just need to jiggle the cam with the spanner.
You don't need to unlock the cams (on the side that you have already removed the vanos) to remove the vanos on the other side.
You also don't need to rotate the engine.
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post #30 of 107 Old 20th November 2016, 10:54 AM
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Yep, just wiggle the cams with spanner and the vanos gears should spit out. Loosening the 3 accessible cam hub bolts per cam helps with this. Back them off quite a bit, not just a 1/4 turn.

Once you have done the spring plates on both banks it is absolutely critical you re-insert the vanos gears in to the hubs correctly. If you haven't already, search for 'Spring plate renewal' on here and follow the re-installation steps to the letter.

Check your static cam timing with the piston covers installed or your timing will be off.
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