Rod bearing replacement cost and labor units - Page 4 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #31 of 33 Old 23rd May 2019, 01:38 PM
Trizzuth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveinGigHarbor View Post
Trizzuth - Hello! I got the car with very few service records, so I had Blackstone look at the oil. It came back with high metal traces, which had me thinking about the rod bearings. Talking to the indy shop I use, the asked if I saw "glitter " in the oil when I did my change. I had, so they mentioned that I might want to do a rod bearing change. They quoted me a decent price, so I did it as a preventative measure. The rod bearings had wear on two of the eight. Not bad, but I am glad I did them. Love the car and just want to drive it without any worries.


All that said, I then get the car back and a CPS issue AND a radiator fan issue pops up within 25 miles. There are lots of people that say don't fix it until it is broke. I can sure see why. Car ran perfect, then replaced the rod bearings, an aux radiator fan and a CPS for $3,500. Deep down inside, I feel that I should have just driven it and not had the thing touched.


Take care!
Wow you have some great advice here Dave. On my last car, an 01 330i, I lived in preventive maintenance mode, literally fixing everything I could as it was getting worn out, but clearly still working fine. I did this to prevent an occasional stranding on the side of the road and it served me well over the 12 years I had that car as I was only stranded once when my fuel pump went around 170K miles and that was the only item I had not changed preventively.

There were times that I did car work as you say and other things immediately popped up which made me instantly regret touching the car, but I'd say that overall the confidence you get knowing it's all set up and running like a top is worth it (depends on the price!). My least favorite moment was when I changed the CCV valve, put in new plugs and upon reinstallation of everything, something random happened that sent a bad electric signal to my ECU board and fried a few transistors!!!! Had to get a donor ECU board, solder and harvest the transistors off of that and remove the burned and re-solder the harvested ones in and lo and behold it ended up working again! Man that car was a frankenstein. Here is that thread in case you want to see scary things you never want to ever happen to your car.

It would be a big help for me if you could post up your blackstone analysis here so I could compare it to mine once I get the results back. I too am not sure I'd want to dig in and get that job done, and have no clue how I'd feel if my metals were high, that has to be a horrible feeling to live with. I will say that the oil coming out of my M5 was still pretty translucent at around 8000 miles, where as the oil coming out of my 330 used to be pitch black. Maybe chalk it up to piston ring blow by on the 330 as that was a very common issue on all M54's and that car used to love to eat oil.

New (old): 2003 E39 M5 TiAG
Old: 2001 E46 330i Steel-Grey Metallic (Totalled)
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post #32 of 33 Old 23rd May 2019, 01:39 PM
Trizzuth
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For sh*ts n giggles. Here was my board after the fry.



It is supposed to look like this:

New (old): 2003 E39 M5 TiAG
Old: 2001 E46 330i Steel-Grey Metallic (Totalled)

Last edited by Trizzuth; 23rd May 2019 at 01:41 PM.
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post #33 of 33 Old 2nd June 2019, 05:28 AM
pyite
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Originally Posted by markusaurelius View Post
Also, I was wondering how many cars out there with 100k+ kms without any issues
230K miles and the engine is fine. I'm considering doing the bearings next time I have a couple grand I don't need (probably not this year since I just did the clutch).
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