DIY: Supplementary Air Pump (SAP)replacement DIY with pics - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 11 Old 18th April 2016, 12:25 AM Thread Starter
alfanator
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Supplementary Air Pump (SAP)replacement DIY with pics

Does your car sound like a jet engine on a cold start for the first 90 seconds? If so it is likely the SAP. Lots of discussion on this topic but no DIY. So here it is. Pretty simple.

Remove the right front wheel and the plastic valance. I have a Dinan CAI, stock is not much different.

This is what it looks like. The black thing next to the air filter.

It is on the front right corner of the car.


In my set up, it is mounted upside down and secured with three small bolts.



Remove the three bolts with a u-joint ratchet. Unplug the wire on top and hose on side.





Look in your garage for another pump. I had one left over from a 2000 that I parted out just sitting there. It was extremely clean and I did not recall a whine before some idiot rear ended me .

Here is a pic of the one I removed. It was funky and the sponge filter clogged with dirt.



Put the working one in. Inverse of how you got the noisy one out.

Turn on the car. Confirm to make sure the SAP is indeed running, because it is so quiet. It sounds like a DustBuster.

Mosey on to the other side, since I have the car up to check out the curb damage I did to the other valance.

Repair damaged balance with duct tape.






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post #2 of 11 Old 18th April 2016, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfanator View Post
Does your car sound like a jet engine on a cold start for the first 90 seconds? If so it is likely the SAP. Lots of discussion on this topic but no DIY. So here it is. Pretty simple.




Turn on the car. Confirm to make sure the SAP is indeed running, because it is so quiet. It sounds like a DustBuster.

[/IMG]




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Do you need the SAP for emissions testing?

Regards,
Jerry

'01 Black/caramel
Dinan Stage 3 suspension, SS jet coated headers, ESS SC kit w/ 1 range colder NGK's, 92mm pulley, 440 Big Greens, TTFS alpha N tune for meth, RK plenum plates, SBC Endurance Stage 3 Kevlar performance clutch setup, "Jed" lightened DMFW, open brake ducts, TEC cupholder, U.S.(Euro style) tilt/slide armrest, 6k HID fogs, Umnitza bi-xenon flamethrowers w/6k super white low beams, rear fogs, V1/Stealth1, dual head LI, 2.65 diff w/40% lockup/2x dynamic, compact spare, M5 logo trunk carpet, Euro trailer hitch, Mocal oil cooler, ACS type rear spoiler, Rogue custom SSK and tranny mounts, ST 355 BBK (fronts), BP sway bar brackets, Bluetooth retrofit, Speedhut boost gauge (20 psi), Dinan TB's and VS, KB BAP, Howerton/HFS-3 Aquamist WI trunk setup (50/50), with 2nd gauge in rear view mirror, aftermarket trunk mounted sound system integrated into stock unit (amps, crossovers, sub and speakers).......
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post #3 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 12:54 AM
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post #4 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 01:01 AM
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They sell a block off plate, though you have to keep the bank to bank pipe. They also sell a vacuum cap. The rest is removing, the valve, the pump and hosing and flashing a tune.

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post #5 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 04:24 PM
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They sell a block off plate, though you have to keep the bank to bank pipe. They also sell a vacuum cap. The rest is removing, the valve, the pump and hosing and flashing a tune.
Still haven't decided to do the delete or not. Just worried It might cause other issues. I already have the shark tune installed from the previous owner (I think for that very reason)

So I've ordered a block of plate with ecs since I had other things to get from them. But some people are stating that I may be an issue to the cats if deleted...
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post #6 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 04:28 PM
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I'd leave the hardware in place it really don't matter.. If you want to save 20lbs then remove it otherwise once it's tuned out it doesn't matter either way.


The cat's don't care all it does is help heat the cats by pushing more air into them. It runs for 30 seconds or so on cold start and is dormant the rest of the time. The only thing that would be mad if they're gone is the EPA, or the EU people, because you know muh global warming and ****.

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Last edited by Ferris; 13th February 2019 at 04:28 PM.
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post #7 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 04:32 PM
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I'd leave the hardware in place it really don't matter.. If you want to save 20lbs then remove it otherwise once it's tuned out it doesn't matter either way.


The cat's don't care all it does is help heat the cats by pushing more air into them. It runs for 30 seconds or so on cold start and is dormant the rest of the time. The only thing that would be mad if they're gone is the EPA, or the EU people, because you know muh global warming and ****.
Won't it still contribute to fill the heads with carbon deposits if the system is left there? I'm trying to weight the pro's and con's...
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post #8 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 04:38 PM
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Won't it still contribute to fill the heads with carbon deposits if the system is left there? I'm trying to weight the pro's and con's...

It's gonna happen either way. Here is a pic of the ports in the heads, exhaust valves removed. Basically what happens is the exhaust gases are going to push through the passages in the head and deposit carbon. Blocking off the ports at the end of the head or in cross pipes isn't going to make a difference.


It doesn't matter if they fill up either, minus the emission aspects of it. Tune it out and don't think about it again is my advice.





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post #9 of 11 Old 13th February 2019, 05:38 PM
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Well I've just found out that my shark injector does not remove the SAP warning light after all. Some do, but not mine.
So'ill leave it like that and if it lits up someday, I'll tune it out.

Any better options than the shark injector do this?
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post #10 of 11 Old 14th February 2019, 03:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by espritv8 View Post
Well I've just found out that my shark injector does not remove the SAP warning light after all. Some do, but not mine.
So'ill leave it like that and if it lits up someday, I'll tune it out.

Any better options than the shark injector do this?
Read the tune with BMWFlash (or your app of choice) and delete codes 13, 3F, AA, and AB. The status will then be set to ready regardless of whether the pump is functional or present.
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