front end shake at 53-55 mph - possible causes? - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #11 of 54 Old 15th January 2016, 06:48 AM
thekurgan
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^^^^ Money on a bent wheel.

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post #12 of 54 Old 15th January 2016, 06:52 AM
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Would think the runout on the road force would show that though, no?

I still think it sounds like LCA bushings... the speed range is classic for that problem.
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post #13 of 54 Old 15th January 2016, 07:49 AM
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Dont ignore the rear axle when troubleshooting (brakes, subframe bushes, control arms, wheels/tires etc). Something from the rear could be transmitted to the front.
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post #14 of 54 Old 16th January 2016, 02:12 AM
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Balancing will show bent wheel. I had a problem like this on one of my cars and it ended up being a combination of two issues, upper control arm bushing and the one brake caliper would hang up and cause a shimmy then release. Also I assume you have wheels with correct center bore, I had to add hub centric rings to a set of wheels because the bore was off slightly and caused shimmy. These things can be a ***** and usually result in a few new front end parts. Good luck.
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post #15 of 54 Old 16th January 2016, 02:16 AM Thread Starter
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I finally got a good look at the tires - they look like hell! They look old - they are cracking like dry rot between the treads and generally look crappy. Shoulders on fronts a bit more worn that across the rest of the tire. Car was 4-wheel aligned 4k miles ago as I bought it, should be OK now, but I'm going to go ahead and throw a pair of front tires at it next week since it pretty much needs them anyways. If no resolution, I'll go from there. Stay tuned.

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post #16 of 54 Old 18th January 2016, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinC View Post
I finally got a good look at the tires - they look like hell! They look old - they are cracking like dry rot between the treads and generally look crappy. Shoulders on fronts a bit more worn that across the rest of the tire. Car was 4-wheel aligned 4k miles ago as I bought it, should be OK now, but I'm going to go ahead and throw a pair of front tires at it next week since it pretty much needs them anyways. If no resolution, I'll go from there. Stay tuned.
Most tires in AZ will crack rather quickly for obvious reasons. It does not necessarily indicate a shot tire, depending upon where the cracking is (above tread sipes, no. Halfway down the sidewall, yes). What are the date codes on the tires, what is the tread depth and what psi are you running all-around? Is it worse in the morning while the car is cold? Is there any associated noise with this? Does it get better after the car warms up?

It may seem odd but it could also be motor mounts or any of the rubber mounting components down the line. Also can't rule out a failing bearing on the drive belt system.

I am very sensitive to these things (and super picky) if you would like me to take a look at it for you and see if I can help pinpoint it. I don't mind.

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post #17 of 54 Old 18th January 2016, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never2Low View Post
Most tires in AZ will crack rather quickly for obvious reasons. It does not necessarily indicate a shot tire, depending upon where the cracking is (above tread sipes, no. Halfway down the sidewall, yes). What are the date codes on the tires, what is the tread depth and what psi are you running all-around? Is it worse in the morning while the car is cold? Is there any associated noise with this? Does it get better after the car warms up?

It may seem odd but it could also be motor mounts or any of the rubber mounting components down the line. Also can't rule out a failing bearing on the drive belt system.

I am very sensitive to these things (and super picky) if you would like me to take a look at it for you and see if I can help pinpoint it. I don't mind.
Even better, if you are willing, is swap wheels and tires. That will eliminate one large variable.

@kevin .

In addition to possible bad tires (although 1 is possible, 2 unlikely), recheck the alignment settings. Outside shoulder wear could be from bad thrust arm bushings (supposedly new) or not installed properly or bad alignment (too much toe IN). If should wear is uneven, look at front shocks.

If you are putting new fronts tires on, perhaps an alignment at another well known shop would be wise to 1. check the work of the first shop and 2. eliminate front end alignment as a variable.

Regards,
Jerry

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post #18 of 54 Old 18th January 2016, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsfent View Post
Even better, if you are willing, is swap wheels and tires. That will eliminate one large variable.

@kevin .

In addition to possible bad tires (although 1 is possible, 2 unlikely), recheck the alignment settings. Outside shoulder wear could be from bad thrust arm bushings (supposedly new) or not installed properly or bad alignment (too much toe IN). If should wear is uneven, look at front shocks.

If you are putting new fronts tires on, perhaps an alignment at another well known shop would be wise to 1. check the work of the first shop and 2. eliminate front end alignment as a variable.

Regards,
Jerry
I am totally willing, however 3/4 of my wheels are not round due to prior owners. I've never bent a wheel in my life and can't understand how someone could do so, much less 3x. With that said, I have got the set dialed-in so that it is smooth down the road in 98% of conditions so it could be a possibility under the right circumstances.

By his statements, I am assuming that the car was aligned with the current tires in their current state (meaning a correction of prior positive camber or toe issues). From my experience, getting a good alignment in Arizona is about as probable as Shaq making a free throw so I am not sure that I would go for another alignment without knowing for sure this one is off.

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post #19 of 54 Old 18th January 2016, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Never2Low View Post

By his statements, I am assuming that the car was aligned with the current tires in their current state (meaning a correction of prior positive camber or toe issues). From my experience, getting a good alignment in Arizona is about as probable as Shaq making a free throw
LOL

Quote:

so I am not sure that I would go for another alignment without knowing for sure this one is off.
If alignments are that hard to come by, how do you know the first shop did it correctly? Simply by the readout? What if alignment has shifted over time from use? What is the first shops machine is not properly calibrated?

Even a not so good second shop should be able to get a readout of what Kevin has now. If it matches the first shop (and in spec), then first shop is good, and alignment is NOT the issue. If it is, I like alignment shops that work on race cars, because they have to be very good at balancing and alignment and generally understand what they are doing better than your run of the mill alignment shop which just uses the settings in the computer for alignment specs.

Regards,
Jerry

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post #20 of 54 Old 18th January 2016, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsfent View Post
If alignments are that hard to come by, how do you know the first shop did it correctly? Simply by the readout? What if alignment has shifted over time from use? What is the first shops machine is not properly calibrated?

Even a not so good second shop should be able to get a readout of what Kevin has now. If it matches the first shop (and in spec), then first shop is good, and alignment is NOT the issue. If it is, I like alignment shops that work on race cars, because they have to be very good at balancing and alignment and generally understand what they are doing better than your run of the mill alignment shop which just uses the settings in the computer for alignment specs.

Regards,
Jerry

I believe that the place he bought the car from (EAG?) did the prior alignment about 4k miles ago, if I read correctly.

I have had a very difficult time getting any race shops willing to do my street car and none of the other shops I called (or have used) follow any TIS processes (BMW independents nor dealers, they all know better than BMW's engineering dept.), much less even bother checking ball joints and other components before beginning work. There are many ways to fudge up even an alignment reading (placement, suspension loading, confirmation of suspension bolts torqued at ride height etc)! Don't underestimate the power of a moron, Jerry haha.

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