Sigh... oil drain issue - not the usual stripped-threads though - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #11 of 24 Old 1st June 2015, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
Rittmeister
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So, I tried to straighten out the threads a bit and one of the sides of the insert broke right off down where it was cut. I went ahead and pulled the other side off and did some careful filing, leaving me with an insert almost exactly the same length as the bolt itself.

I think I'm going to go out and loctite it into the hole, then try to remove just the bolt in the morning. If the whole thing comes out again I'll go get a bolt that matches the hole itself.

I'm 99% sure the outside threads of the insert are M14x1.5mm; I measured them as such and I've got a couple big hex nuts that are that thread pitch that spin on just right.

As for finding the inserts, I'm not locating Time-Sert on either Autozone, Advance, Napa, or even O'Reilly. I've found tons of Helicoil though... I may call around but I doubt it'll be easy to find in my area.

Thanks for your help - with luck I can rescue this thing.

Last edited by Rittmeister; 1st June 2015 at 06:08 AM.
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post #12 of 24 Old 1st June 2015, 06:47 AM
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I live in rural Ontario and our places had them in stock. I wonder if I am using the wrong name. If the old one sticks it will work. You will have to be cautious of over tightening as the bearing thread length will be shorter, but no less than the stock plug. I think if the sert is glued in place it will be stronger, but tons disagree. It is the twisting motion against the thread that strips it. A shear force is created. Once bonded in place it all must fail at the same time.
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post #13 of 24 Old 1st June 2015, 06:53 AM
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Right name spelled wrong Time-Sert
anyway here is a supplier where you are, I was at the website anyway. Fastenal was another vendor.
J&N ELECTRIC
10995 CANAL RD.
CINCINNATI, OH. 54241 US

513 771-8000 ext 220
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post #14 of 24 Old 1st June 2015, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Well, for better or worse it's back in there. Cleaned and red loctited as best I can. It's been a long time since I was under a car past midnight...

Anyway, I figure if this works it'll be fixed at least for a while, and if not I'll be no worse off than I was, potentially needing a new lower oil pan.
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post #15 of 24 Old 1st June 2015, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Update: went out this morning, and the bolt came out easy as you please while the insert stayed put. Red loctite to the rescue. The crush washer also fell off in my hand (huzzah). I put a new one on, torqued it properly back in the hole, and filled the car with Dr. Liqui-Moly's best brew. After running some errands (maybe 15 miles of driving) the bottom of the pan is dry and I pronounce the car to be cured of this particular malady.

Which isn't stopping me from picking up one of those 14mm plugs I described, as well as (probably) a spare oil pan against future need. Best to be prepared, I always say
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post #16 of 24 Old 20th May 2016, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Resurrecting this thread.

Just did my second oil change over the weekend (yes, it's been a year. The car sees few miles...)

The timesert came right out again, despite having been in all that time with red loc-tite. I put it back in with more red loc-tite but as of tonight there is a very slight oil leak at the drain bolt.

I am hoping that this is simply because I couldn't replace the crush washer (it's captured on the bolt by the timsert thing) but I fear I may have damaged the threads in the pan that were cut for the timesert insert . I will drain the oil and pull the plug to take a look this weekend (I hope, super-busy). I am searching for an oversized plug; my Napa item above is incorrect, it's an M14 bolt where I think the timesert is M12x1.5 threads. I will verify once I have it out of the car again.

If anyone has other advice I'd be grateful. I don't have the time to pull the pan myself so if that becomes necessary it'll be off to the shop - something I'd like to avoid. I have a vacuum reservoir, so if I can get it to seal up again perhaps I'll just quit using the oil drain at the bottom and suck the oil out through the dipstick tube...

Any input appreciated.
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post #17 of 24 Old 20th May 2016, 05:00 AM
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At this point you need a new timesert and to remove the pan and start fresh. If you clamp the old timesert in a vise you can likely salvage the plug. Part of the problem that caused this was the timesert thread was likely not cut deep enough so the the timesert was not counter sunk. Recut the thread a hair deeper and confirm you are far enough by screwing in the new. Clean the threads install the new sert let dry.

Next there will be a bit of sert sticking out higher than the pan cut your grooves for the oil drain, install the plug then tap the part above the pan outwards. This will lock it from coming out.It does not need to be folded over just moved a bit.
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post #18 of 24 Old 20th May 2016, 04:51 PM
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I would recommend you to take the oil pan off and have a board member fix the drain plug. Board member Gzig5 had sent a refurbished oil pan (drain plug thread fixed) to me while I had my old oil pan as a core.

Look at Post #18

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...ml#post1920798

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post #19 of 24 Old 20th May 2016, 09:20 PM
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We can probably take care of your pan for you and make it essentially bulletproof. If you are interested shoot me a pm.

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post #20 of 24 Old 20th May 2016, 10:15 PM
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You are playing with fire driving the car any further with that re-used remnant of a timesert. I would personally replace the whole lower pan. I paid $266 from Husker auto group when I bought one last year. For that price, I didn't think it was worth the extra effort of repairing it. Although I can see the argument that a properly installed steel insert would be even more durable than a new pan. Up to you, but I wouldn't drive any further until I fixed it for real. I don't like taking chances that could lead to an oil leak while driving.

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Last edited by BONDOSPECIAL; 20th May 2016 at 10:17 PM.
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