When I researched this job, I couldn't find any dedicated DIYs on it, so I figured I'd give a quick write-up to help give people some confidence to tackle it. To be clear, this is for the lower control arms, or LCA, not the "thrust arms" that more commonly fail.
To start, jack up the front, support on jack stands and remove the front wheels. I started by spraying the ball joint connections, and other nuts with a liberal amount of PB Blaster to help with removal. I also recommend replacing the front sway bar links when doing this job because they only cost about $50 for both and it adds less than 30 min to the job.
Step one is to remove the bolt connection on the frame with a 5/8" socket on one side and 18mm wrench on the other side. On the passenger side you'll need to unclip the headlight leveler, I think this popped off with a screwdriver. This bolt comes out pretty easily (unlike the similar bolt on the thrust arms)
Step two is to loosen the 22mm nut on the ball joint side. This takes a little while due to the lack of space, but you don't want to take it all the way off. Leave it flush with the top as shown in the picture.
Last removal step is the hardest part. I bought a 12" pickle fork from harbor freight to remove the ball joint connection, but needed to grind about 1/4"-1/2" off the tip. Without modifying the fork, you'll hit the brake shield before popping the joint. If you have any type of bench grinder it makes short work of the soft metal. I was finally able to use my cheapo craftsman grinder that has been collecting dust in my basement for 3 years.
I aligned the pickle fork as shown in the picture, and went after it with a 4 lb hammer. The night I started on it, I was unsuccessful, quickly gave up for the night, but the next morning they gave way after about 12 wacks.
At this point I also removed the sway bar links with the same 5/8" socket and a 17mm open wrench to hold the ball joint, and installed the new links.
Installing the control arms is pretty straight forward. I got the ball joint started in the collar while lining up the opposite end to secure the bolt/nut. I left the bolt loose for the time being. One you get the ball joint 22mm nut threaded down a bit, the joint will start to spin with the nut and you'll get nowhere. To counter this, I placed my jack (with hockey puck pad) under the ball joint to apply pressure. With the jack in place, you can torque the nut down. I wasn't sure if this next step was necessary, but before torquing the bolt on the frame side, I leveled the suspension, similar to what is needed for a thrust arm install.
To start, jack up the front, support on jack stands and remove the front wheels. I started by spraying the ball joint connections, and other nuts with a liberal amount of PB Blaster to help with removal. I also recommend replacing the front sway bar links when doing this job because they only cost about $50 for both and it adds less than 30 min to the job.
Step one is to remove the bolt connection on the frame with a 5/8" socket on one side and 18mm wrench on the other side. On the passenger side you'll need to unclip the headlight leveler, I think this popped off with a screwdriver. This bolt comes out pretty easily (unlike the similar bolt on the thrust arms)
Step two is to loosen the 22mm nut on the ball joint side. This takes a little while due to the lack of space, but you don't want to take it all the way off. Leave it flush with the top as shown in the picture.
Last removal step is the hardest part. I bought a 12" pickle fork from harbor freight to remove the ball joint connection, but needed to grind about 1/4"-1/2" off the tip. Without modifying the fork, you'll hit the brake shield before popping the joint. If you have any type of bench grinder it makes short work of the soft metal. I was finally able to use my cheapo craftsman grinder that has been collecting dust in my basement for 3 years.
I aligned the pickle fork as shown in the picture, and went after it with a 4 lb hammer. The night I started on it, I was unsuccessful, quickly gave up for the night, but the next morning they gave way after about 12 wacks.
At this point I also removed the sway bar links with the same 5/8" socket and a 17mm open wrench to hold the ball joint, and installed the new links.
Installing the control arms is pretty straight forward. I got the ball joint started in the collar while lining up the opposite end to secure the bolt/nut. I left the bolt loose for the time being. One you get the ball joint 22mm nut threaded down a bit, the joint will start to spin with the nut and you'll get nowhere. To counter this, I placed my jack (with hockey puck pad) under the ball joint to apply pressure. With the jack in place, you can torque the nut down. I wasn't sure if this next step was necessary, but before torquing the bolt on the frame side, I leveled the suspension, similar to what is needed for a thrust arm install.
