you never know what you had until its gone they say... TIS for our m5 is no longer available online :crying: Can somebody be kind enough to help walk me through the process of replacing the power steering pump? :1zhelp:
CarbonHan
I haven't done the job so I can't give you a complete step by step DIY with pictures but I've replaced the PS lines from the reservoir and just had to remove the pump last weekend to replace my alternator so between the two other jobs I can tell you what you need to know. It won't be that difficult of a replacement.
Get the car up on stands, pull the lower engine cover, and remove the serp belt. You can get away with just slipping the belt off of the pump and moving it aside without removing the belt fully or taking off the fan to do so. This is the route I would take to save time.
Next, some try to empty as much fluid as they can out of the reservoir using a baster. I don't bother. Get your drain pan under the pump and remove the clamped rubber hose from the back and let all the fluid drain out. Spin the pulley by hand clockwise as much as you can to keep pumping out as much fluid as you can. Remove the banjo bolt for the hard line that goes into the back of the pump. You should definitely use new crush washers for that on re-installation.
Now there are only three bolts that really hold the pump in place. Two are at the front of the pump towards the crank. These are actually nuts on studs. When I removed them I got one out with the nut still on the stud, one just the nut. The last one is directly up vertically at the rear of the pump. Once those are removed you should be able to drop it right out and reinstall the new one.
Get the car up on stands, pull the lower engine cover, and remove the serp belt. You can get away with just slipping the belt off of the pump and moving it aside without removing the belt fully or taking off the fan to do so. This is the route I would take to save time.
Next, some try to empty as much fluid as they can out of the reservoir using a baster. I don't bother. Get your drain pan under the pump and remove the clamped rubber hose from the back and let all the fluid drain out. Spin the pulley by hand clockwise as much as you can to keep pumping out as much fluid as you can. Remove the banjo bolt for the hard line that goes into the back of the pump. You should definitely use new crush washers for that on re-installation.
Now there are only three bolts that really hold the pump in place. Two are at the front of the pump towards the crank. These are actually nuts on studs. When I removed them I got one out with the nut still on the stud, one just the nut. The last one is directly up vertically at the rear of the pump. Once those are removed you should be able to drop it right out and reinstall the new one.
No worries. Wish I could give you torque specs off the top of my head but I don't know what they are. The only one I'd even worry about would be the banjo bolt. The ones that hold the pump in place shouldn't be much of a worry as long as you tighten them well without wrenching hard enough to strip the aluminum threads. Shouldn't take you more than 2 hours tops. Maybe closer to one.
Is there a filter in the power steering line? Im trying to follow the instructions but before I go out there someone had mentioned at one point that the pump doesnt necessarily mean its bad if you hear it... He said it could just be the filter that needs replaced at the lines somewhere. Does that sound wrong to you guys?
Also, does NOT having the oil level at the FULL indicator on the dipstick for a couple years have anything to do with my pump geekin out?? I have always kept my oil levels little over half way on the dipstick.. is that bad and completely wrong??
Also, does NOT having the oil level at the FULL indicator on the dipstick for a couple years have anything to do with my pump geekin out?? I have always kept my oil levels little over half way on the dipstick.. is that bad and completely wrong??
oh okay, I knew about that filter at the reservior. I just thought there was something at the line. Sort of like how a fuel filter works. Nevermind. Im thinking differently. Well my pump is completely dead. Ive been checking this periodically throughout the last year and it slowly would sound like it wasnt pumping right.. Ive been checking the lines (externally) and checking the reservoir.. and everything had fluid.. Fluid is just hasnt been getting to the pump I guess. I started it yesterday and normally you hear the power steering pump grinding for a bit and then it would go away after a bit and everything would be fine.. but now its completely quiet at start up and the steering wheel will not budge hardly now. Is it possible that I can replace just the lines and try and get some fluid going in there and see if this will operate again normally? Or do you guys think im screwed and its completely dead now?
Ive been looking on Pelican Parts and some other places and Im seeing the pump at 400 dollars. Think I could find a used one off someone on here? This car already has 222000 miles on it.. I dont see spending 400 dollars on a pump when I doubt this car will last me another 5 years. What do you guys suggest?
Ive been looking on Pelican Parts and some other places and Im seeing the pump at 400 dollars. Think I could find a used one off someone on here? This car already has 222000 miles on it.. I dont see spending 400 dollars on a pump when I doubt this car will last me another 5 years. What do you guys suggest?
The power steering pump is a vane pump. The vanes are shown in the photo. As the rotor rotates inside the eccentric ring the vanes slide in and out. This article explains well what happens if the inlet filter to a vane pump is plugged. It sounds like that may be your problem, so you could try replacing the reservoir and filter before you change the pump.
Hydraulic Vane Pump Failure
The "grinding" noise that happens when the reservoir gets low is air entrainment in the fluid. The air bubbles expand in the suction of the pump and then collapse as the pressure is increased causing that noise. It's not nearly as damaging as the above, and isn't damaging at all if the reservoir is topped up promptly when the noise is heard.
Another source of noise is the pressure relief valve lifting when the steering hits the stops at full lock. That's normal.
Vane pumps pumping oil are pretty bulletproof. If the new reservoir doesn't fix your problem, and if it is accessible, you could remove the relief valve in-situ and see if the spring is broken or the valve isn't closing properly.
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Hydraulic Vane Pump Failure
The "grinding" noise that happens when the reservoir gets low is air entrainment in the fluid. The air bubbles expand in the suction of the pump and then collapse as the pressure is increased causing that noise. It's not nearly as damaging as the above, and isn't damaging at all if the reservoir is topped up promptly when the noise is heard.
Another source of noise is the pressure relief valve lifting when the steering hits the stops at full lock. That's normal.
Vane pumps pumping oil are pretty bulletproof. If the new reservoir doesn't fix your problem, and if it is accessible, you could remove the relief valve in-situ and see if the spring is broken or the valve isn't closing properly.
A clogged reservoir filter can definitely cause noise from the pump. My pump was making a lot of noise even with the fluid full. Last week I had the reservoir and low pressure hoses changed and it's very quiet now and the steering is smoother.
I would definitely try that step before you replace the pump.
I would definitely try that step before you replace the pump.
yeah checked it tonight.. pump is fine. its just not getting fluid properly. I sucked all the old out of it today and messed with the reservoir. I know im gonna have to get a new one and new lines.. because when I threw the new fluid in and messed with it.. I stared up the car and it felt smooth and the steering was smooth and the pump wasnt being forced. So, can that filter inside be taken out of the reservoir. cause I couldnt figure it out. does that big black canister come apart??
anuyone know a cheap please to greb another reservior. sure.
anuyone know a cheap please to greb another reservior. sure.
I just replaced my pump so figured I'd update this thread with pics. Note I replaced my fluid reservoir a few months ago so I eliminated that as a reason for the vibrations I was feeling.
I went with a remanufactured ZF pump ($237 with a $75 core charge), new crush washers for the banjo bolt, new Oetiker clamp for the suction hose. There's also an oil level sensor gasket in the photo, but obviously irrelevant to the pump.
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Old pump and hoses still dry.
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Belt & bolts removed.
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Letting the old fluid drain. I also didn't bother removing any from the reservoir...just used an oil drain pan to catch everything.
![Image]()
I didn't hear this bracket break, but the banjo bolt needed some persuasion to loosen so it's possible that's when it happened. New pump came with a new bracket.
![Image]()
Here you can see the 2 studs and the tapped hole at the top.
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New pump installed. I applied a little grease last time when I replaced the pulley which allowed me to remove it without breaking. Naturally I did that again but the first time I removed the pulley, I ended up breaking it so if this is your first time removing it, you might wanna buy one to have on hand.
![Image]()
25 Nm of torque on the bolt and 2 nuts.
![Image]()
![Image]()
Bled the system and now the vibration is gone with smoother steering.
![Image]()
I went with a remanufactured ZF pump ($237 with a $75 core charge), new crush washers for the banjo bolt, new Oetiker clamp for the suction hose. There's also an oil level sensor gasket in the photo, but obviously irrelevant to the pump.
Old pump and hoses still dry.
Belt & bolts removed.
Letting the old fluid drain. I also didn't bother removing any from the reservoir...just used an oil drain pan to catch everything.
I didn't hear this bracket break, but the banjo bolt needed some persuasion to loosen so it's possible that's when it happened. New pump came with a new bracket.
Here you can see the 2 studs and the tapped hole at the top.
New pump installed. I applied a little grease last time when I replaced the pulley which allowed me to remove it without breaking. Naturally I did that again but the first time I removed the pulley, I ended up breaking it so if this is your first time removing it, you might wanna buy one to have on hand.
25 Nm of torque on the bolt and 2 nuts.
Bled the system and now the vibration is gone with smoother steering.
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