BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Water pump replacement DIY

2 reading
Jump to Latest
92K views 73 replies 36 participants last post by  Nvable  
V
#1 · (Edited)
Gents,thought I do a fast write up on replacing the water pump.
As usual,I am not liable if you mess up during replacement.....

This requires that the t-stat is removed,so follow the instructions here on the board to remove it.
Remove the fan from the water pump(32mm open end spanner,counter clockwise thread)


First follow the instructions to remove the t-stat.
Next remove the drive belts(15mm spanner on the tensioner pulleys,turn clockwise to release tension).
Turn the engine on the crank pulley(32mm nut) until the hole in the vibration damper matches with the hole in the indicator on the block,use a 8mm drill to block the vibration damper.
After that,remove the bolts from the pulley of the crank(13mm socket,tightening torque:25NM).Then use a Torx E14 to remove the bolts of the vibration damper(important:use new bolts for assembly.tightening torque:60NM,2 times 50° torque angle).
Remove the vibration damper(notice for assembly to put it back in correct position,there is only one position how it fits).
Remove the hose from the waterpump housing,a bucket is quite handy underneath as still some coolant comes out..
Unbolt waterpump(10mm socket,tightening torque:10NM) and remove it(hold the tube that you see in the second pic in the top let corner with the green O-ring when you pull the pump out,if it slips out in the back,you have a problem!).Also change the O-ring on the mentioned tube.
Change the pulley(hint:buy also a new pulley,they cost about 20$ and have the tendency to break while changing) from the old waterpump to the new one(10NM for the M6 bolts),use new gasket for waterpump and new O-ring for the watertube.Clean gasket surface on block.
Bolt everything back together,fill with coolant,bleed it and check for leaks!

And get the usual beer to celebrate...:)
Image


Image
<!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________
Part numbers:

1x Water pump : 11511407806
1x Gasket waterpump : 11511406765
4x Torx bolt for vibration damper: 11231402618
1x Pulley for waterpump(optional): 11511406933
1x O-ring for waterpump : 11531710055


Plus the O-rings for the t-stat:

4x O-ring : 11531406249
2x O-ring : 11531407002

and maybe some spares of the O-ring if they break during install...

Also about 3 liters coolant fluid.
 
J
#2 ·
Good writeup Vantaam.. Been looking for a DIY for waterpump since like forever.. def more work than the thermostat but i will be doing this next month. I have done waterpump b/4 but not on the M5.. Should be fun..:eek:oohhh:
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
V
#3 · (Edited)
Is a bit more work than changing the t-stat,but not that bad.
First time might take between 3-5 hours I think...

If you have any issues while changing,post them.'
Will try to help you then.


Just a short note that came up my mind:

There are no aftermarket water pumps available,AFAIK.
The only way to get them is from the dealership.

The problem is that due to the mass of the fan,the water pump seal starts leaking or the bearing in the pump starts making noises.
Without the stupid fan connected to it,I bet they would last forever.
 
A
#5 ·
vantaam5 said:
The problem is that due to the mass of the fan,the water pump seal starts leaking or the bearing in the pump starts making noises.
Without the stupid fan connected to it,I bet they would last forever.
Click to expand...
Nah.... without the fan then they could make the pump _less_ sturdy, still charge the same amount, and still have it fail at inconvenient times :D

According to WorldPac there is an aftermarket pump from LASO which is listed as "Under Development." (which usually means, "don't hold your breath.") Still supposed to cost a small fortune so I would prefer the dealer part.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
H
#4 ·
Nice write up on the change out of the water pump. I wish this thread came about a week earlier, I just took mine in to have this done. I was reading an article on preventive maintenance. This was one is highly suggested to take care if you have 60,000 plus. I guess the damage can be pretty devestating if your pump goes. I looked all over for a water pump and like you said no one carries them except the dealers. Thanks again
 
V
#8 ·
No bleeding screw on the S62.
I do it like that:

-car on the ground,fill water up,let it run,top up till marking,close cap and heater full hot,blower full speed.
-run with reving up to 3k once it has a bit temp every now and then,hold 3k for about 20 sec when full warm,done.

-level check and refill when car is fully cold!

No issues for many.many times I did that on S62s......
 
C
#9 ·
Thanks! Maybe it is sort of self-bleeding like the days of the venerable M30. I ask however since I think the M50, M52 and maybe M54s had issues of getting air entrapment if not fully bleed. I can't remember if this was near the firewall cylinders. This could create a chance of overheating part of the head and then cracking it. Needless to say I became quite anal about my procedure in recent years....
 
V
#16 ·
They have to be replaced!Period.These are stretch bolts.

ekological said:
The TIS says to replace, but they are under such light torque specs that I don't see why you couldn't reuse them.
Click to expand...
The light torque to you refer is 60NM and twice 50deg torque angle.

This is loads of torque applied to these bolts.

So please do not give advice like that...
 
E
#17 · (Edited)
Sorry guys. I was thinking about part #10 in this diagram (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=DE93&mospid=47592&btnr=11_2654&hg=11&fg=18). I also got engines mixed in my head as I most recently worked on my parents' M62 where the TIS also states to replace the bolts that hold the harmonic balancer to the crank hub (where the crank hub is held on with the "jesus bolt"). The torx bolts that Vantaam mentioned should definitely be replaced.
 
M
#18 ·
ok, thanks for the bolt advice, I'll dig some up tomorrow - luckily (i guess) I didn't finish the job today. the thermostat gasket is stuck in the housing big time. do you guys have any advice how to get that out? i was going to take it to the dealer and have them work their magic but if you have ideas or tool suggestions that would be great.
 
E
#19 · (Edited)
Are you talking about part #7 in this diagram? RealOEM.com * BMW E39 M5 Waterpump - Thermostat Or is the thermostat, itself, stuck in the housing? I bought part #7 and after I took off the housing and removed the thermostat, I was like, "might as well change that gasket since I have the part." Big mistake. Removing it was a b*tch and a half and ended up marring the soft aluminum around it. But even if you manage to get it out, how will you press a new one in? I ended up having to buy a new housing. You'll notice in the diagram that the new gasket comes pre-installed in the housing. *sigh* If I were to do it again, I would just replace the thermostat and call it a day.
 
M
#20 · (Edited)
M
#21 ·
any tricks to get the tube into the water pump?

im having no luck getting that tube which runs from the back of the water pump over the top of the engine (black metal pipe) to fit back into the water pump. i find there's no wiggle room and little space to twist the pump on to the tube.

thoughts / suggestions?
 
F
#23 ·
Out of interest, just because I'm really, bloody hoping to be able to get this done soon, would this puller be any good for the inner seal?

Sealey Twin Leg Reversible Puller 75mm : Tooled-Up.com

I know the universal advice is to leave alone but I would like to do the job completely. The legs on this are reversible to be able to do inner and outer. It's a daft tenner and will have free delivery.

What reach does it need to have, this one does 68mm, will it go deep enough?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
M
#24 ·
That tool might work but it may also be too big to fit. If I were to do the job again, I would have left the original seal in place since it wasn't in bad shape. Wasn't worth the effort and risk of marring up the housing to get it out, plus putting in the new seal was also a pain since it was such a tight fit.

If the seal looks ok, let it stay.
 
W
#25 ·
What is a 50 degree torque angle? In other words, how do I apply the torque at a 50 degree angle? Or does it mean something different?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
E
#26 · (Edited)
1
Check the specifications of the fastener to be tightened to determine the correct torque value to be used for your specific application. The value will normally be quoted in foot pounds. Then check to see what the correct torque angle specifications are for that fastener (if given). Incorrect torque application may damage the device you are working on.

2
Tighten the fastener to the approximate specified torque value using a standard torque wrench. Install the torque angle meter over the head of the fastener, and place the standard torque wrench onto the top of the torque angle meter.


3
Turn the standard torque wrench the specified number of degrees that were specified for that fastener. The torque angle meter will tell you this. Watch the torque meter closely for the correct amount of degrees to be applied. Stop torquing when this value is attained. If other fasteners are required for your application, make sure to tighten them all as closely as possible to the same torque value and torque angle.<noscript>
Image
</noscript> <noscript>
Image
</noscript> <section id="Body" class=" FLC"><section id="Tombstone" class="FLC"><section class="featured Inline"><header><section><section class="featured Inline"><header><section><section class="featured Inline"><header><section><section id="others" class="featured Inline"><header><section><footer id="Footer"><nav id="footerLinks"></nav></footer></section></header></section></section></header></section></section></header></section></section></header></section></section></section>

They cost about $30
<li class="step">
Image

Cheers,
E
 
W
#27 ·
Thanks for the reply.

Follow up question - Do I really need to use this tool or can I replicate this some other way?

For example:
Can I torque it to 60NM and then do the following 2 times:
- Torque to 60NM and then continue continue tightening until the wrench moves ~50 degrees

or

Can I just up the torque to a different spec?

I am not trying to cut corners I just cannot get my hands on this tool and I need to finish the job.

Thanks!
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
E
#28 · (Edited)
WLS said:
I am not trying to cut corners I just cannot get my hands on this tool and I need to finish the job.
Click to expand...
There should be a decent one at an auto parts store....but I'd say NO...the two alternatives you mentioned.
The angle isn't about pure movement degrees and the only other torque spec you'd want to do is lower...which I can't promote.

Cheers,
E
 
E
#29 · (Edited)
Great write-up, unfortunately I am nowhere near mechanically inclined :( so I will have my mechanic do my water pump and t-stat as preventative maintenance. I already ordered all the gaskets, t-stat and about to order the (4) bolts. Shopping around for the water pump brought me to this: (make sure you enter the part # 11511407806) in the search box.

Bimmerparts.com : Powered by Zygmunt : Autobahn BMW & Foreign Auto Parts 2009

Thoughts and opinions? Its about $150 cheaper than most places.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#30 ·
Dont mean to bump a very old thread. But around what mileage should the waterpump be changed? My car currently has about 73,8xx miles on the clock.

I recently changed the t-stat, about one day later radiator starts leaking. Its difficult to tell where it is leaking from but it seems to be from the driver's side, lower corner of the radiator. Could it be cracked? I dont think there are any hoses connected there, only on top of the radiator, so it couldn't be a lose/torn hose, right?

I already bought new hoses and radiator, but not my mechanic is thinking to go ahead and change the waterpump. I'm all about preventative maintenance, but does any one think it's too 'early' to change the radiator and waterpump at this mileage?
 
L
#32 ·
I replaced my water pump within the last year with the aid of this thread, thanks vantaam5!

I would not consider the water pump a PM type of job. If it is not broken/leaking, I would leave it alone. I paid $450-ish for my waterpump, which I consider way over the limit for a "replace it while you are in there" type of job.

Clearly if the radiator is leaking, replace it. The waterpump does not seem to be a problem on the M5 enough to replace it proactively.
 
BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
posts
3.2M
members
130K
Since
2000
M5Board is the best forum community for information on the BMW M5 E60 (V-10), E39 (V-8), E34 (straight 6), E28, F90 and F10. Discuss performance, specs, reviews and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion Parts / Other For Sale or Wanted E63/E64 M6 Discussion E34 M5 Discussion