Did a thermostat replacement today (a lot of pics) - Page 3 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #21 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post
Yes, what a PIA to get out, and back in....
Told you to leave that one in there, didn't I?

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Originally Posted by m3bim View Post
NOTE: any DIY'ers, make sure to install the thermo with the correct orientation. Otherwise, OVERHEAT!
While it might create some additional turbulence, I'm hard pressed to believe it will lead to an overheat situation. In any case, "correct position" means that the solid sides of the spring housing do not block the two lines that enter the t-stat area at 9 and 11:30 in the pictures shown.

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Originally Posted by razahyde View Post
just an fyi, you dont have to remove the oil lines from the vanos, you can simply unbolt the bracket from the pump.
True, but it makes your life a lot easier to take them off. Then again, TIS says not to, so why bother?
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post #22 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post
...
Here you can see 3 of the 4 O rings that should be replaced. The other is a tube that goes inbetween them, it has 2 Orings on it, one on each end.




Great job on the writeup guys - glad you got it all taken care of

One slight correction: That is actually 2 of the 6 (six) o-rings that should be replaced. Each of the tubes shown is also removable and has an o-ring on the other end as well. In total there are 3 removable tubes, each with 2 o-rings.

If the t-stat housing has not been removed before, it is very likely that the pipes will be "frozen" and will seem like they are part of the housing (or block), but they are not. If you can manage not to move them at all during dis/re-assembly, then you can probably avoid replacing them. This, however, is very difficult, so I would err on the side of replacing all 6 of them while I had it apart.

d-
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post #23 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 10:02 PM
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post #24 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasABaker View Post
Great job on the writeup guys - glad you got it all taken care of

One slight correction: That is actually 2 of the 6 (six) o-rings that should be replaced. Each of the tubes shown is also removable and has an o-ring on the other end as well. In total there are 3 removable tubes, each with 2 o-rings.

If the t-stat housing has not been removed before, it is very likely that the pipes will be "frozen" and will seem like they are part of the housing (or block), but they are not. If you can manage not to move them at all during dis/re-assembly, then you can probably avoid replacing them. This, however, is very difficult, so I would err on the side of replacing all 6 of them while I had it apart.

d-
Oops, didn't know that. They must have been frozen pretty damn good, I pulled like hell to get them out......

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post #25 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 10:32 PM
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Oops, didn't know that. They must have been frozen pretty damn good, I pulled like hell to get them out......
I had the same problem with mine. I actually had 1 get stuck in the t-stat housing and the other got left behind in the head. Not a lot of room to wiggle things around in there...

d-
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post #26 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 10:44 PM
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FYI, cooling the heads first is not particularly new. Ford/Yamaha did it on the SHO V-8s starting in 1996 model year. It was bit unusual then, but not new. I've had several "regular" T-stats fail in the open mode, but that is probably less common that failing closed. Having it designed to fail open is a good idea. Which probably means mine will fail closed... ;-)

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post #27 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DouglasABaker View Post
I had the same problem with mine. I actually had 1 get stuck in the t-stat housing and the other got left behind in the head. Not a lot of room to wiggle things around in there...

d-
I wish that would have happened to me, I would have known to change them then. I guess it just didn't click in my head that they came off the housing. I even head realoem pulled up looking at the parts. Duh......

Thanks for pointing that out Doug, now that we have a Tstat change with pics, more people won't make the same mistake I did. Luckily it isn't leaking. Sorry Chris!!

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post #28 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by timmay77 View Post
I wish that would have happened to me, I would have known to change them then. I guess it just didn't click in my head that they came off the housing. I even head realoem pulled up looking at the parts. Duh......

Thanks for pointing that out Doug, now that we have a Tstat change with pics, more people won't make the same mistake I did. Luckily it isn't leaking. Sorry Chris!!
I told Chris that there were 6 o-rings, so don't let him give you any trouble about it He said they weren't leaking, so lets just hope it stays that way!!!

d-
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post #29 of 554 Old 6th October 2009, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasABaker View Post
One slight correction: That is actually 2 of the 6 (six) o-rings that should be replaced. Each of the tubes shown is also removable and has an o-ring on the other end as well. In total there are 3 removable tubes, each with 2 o-rings.
Doug,

Where do I find that small "third" tube on the parts diagrams? I looked at this link on realoem, but I only see the two main ones.

Thanks,
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post #30 of 554 Old 7th October 2009, 12:05 AM
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