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E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion 1998-2003 Advertiser's Forum

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post #241 of 327 Old 27th June 2015, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mottati View Post
anything to the secondary air passages in the heads .
IT's INCLUDED THE "secondary air passages" !
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post #242 of 327 Old 27th June 2015, 06:52 PM
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That's the point:
by the PowerCoding, there is no need to open and clean any of the modules or parts of the engine.
it's works by "normal" engine run, during the usual operation.

once it done, all is clean, and it was open (like on the pix) with an other reason, - the pix was shoted to show the result -
anyway how exact it works i guess it's to long to write all here .../ or ..?
so you're saying running a cleaning process that apparently cleans lubricated parts of the engine will somehow, miraculously, get into the exhaust ports, and penetrate blockages in small air passages in the heads?

You should also market your product to cardiologists, because it's probably a nice alternative to stents and bypass surgeries.

(i'm guessing you haven't read through this thread to see what ports get blocked and how they are accessed).

Mike

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post #243 of 327 Old 27th June 2015, 06:58 PM
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it's not necessary you know everything about the physic of, what i write,
and yes, i wanna tell, the PowerCoding is clean up that.
how and why is to long to tell here.

just follow up with the developers, and ask then direct if interested.
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post #244 of 327 Old 27th June 2015, 07:01 PM
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You should also market your product to cardiologists, because it's probably a nice alternative to stents and bypass surgeries.
yes, i see - u are the intelligent one, and know what u speak.
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post #245 of 327 Old 27th June 2015, 08:20 PM
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Garage
The farce is strong in this one....

With great power, comes great credit card bills....
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post #246 of 327 Old 20th October 2015, 03:18 AM
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Hey Sailor24! Great thread on the SAI bypass. I've been thinking over this exact thing over the past three years and I can't believe I've never seen this post!! Then again I'm not very active on the forum due to life.

A few guys over at the Porsche forums did a similar bypass which got me thinking about this project. Well it's time to smog the car and I need to complete this project so I was wondering if you mind answering a few questions for me.

I want to lay out the lines and make it look as OEM as possible. My original thoughts were to redirect the existing SAI lines post valve and redirect to the exhaust while preserving the location of the existing SAI line. I was going to cap off the engine block and just have the lines redirect and use a bung plug on the exhaust and a fitting or two. I also want to just run one line per bank. I would like to use 1/4 aluminum line or copper as a back up material. The reason for that is because it doesn't look as obvious / more factory and I feel it's easier to route cleanly along existing plumbing being it's a smaller diameter.

Now I noticed you disapprove of going with 1/4 inch and one reason because it has a tendency to kink. I do have the proper tools make the bends, but I'm curious what other problems you ran into using 1/4 inch lines.

The last idea I had was to sweat a T off of the existing SAI lines post valve and install fittings to route down to the exhaust. Reason for this is so that I can just preserve the mounting and SAI setup, but basically have a redundant line running to the exhaust. I fear that I may or may not have adequate flow to the exhaust, but then again, I feel like it's all going the same direction, so the air will flow through the less restrictive passage.

Sorry for the questions, again I'm quite OCD about things and my goal is to make it look as factory as possible. Below is the link to the Porsche guys. They lucked out because they already had a port to tap into on their exhaust. Note how clean the install looks, that's my goal.

Another Permanent SAI Fix - Rennlist Discussion Forums
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post #247 of 327 Old 20th October 2015, 04:15 AM
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No problem for the questions, happy to try and answer. Lets start with tubing size, if you want 1 it has to be 3/8". I tried a 1/2 and that was too much air and two 1/4" was not enough air. That said those were experiments in vinyl tubing as tests so they may have kinked. A single 1/4" tube will not flow enough air. Unfortunitely you will find where you have to send the tubing you can't get tools. That is why I say use the copper nickel tubing, works with tools but also works by hand.

I posted this in another thread but forget which thread. I would not do it as I did again. I would drill into the main tube and route 1 3/8 line to each bank. You will need to wield something to the exhaust or if you look in the super charger threads they route a oil waste line to the exhaust and have a way to get a tube into the exhaust, simpler than what I did.

For the front there are some fittings that will clamp on and seal to the main tube. I would leave everything as it is, you will have to remove the tube to drill and put the fittings on. Then reinstall and use compression fittings to the tube and the clamp route it back and be done. The tube is a funny size and hard to get something to join to it. It is very thin also so wielding to it might be tough. I don't tig only mig so for me it was not the best choice.

This is what I would recommend it is stainless and the out tube fits right into a compression fitting. You will not find them at a hardware store you will need a place like Fastenal or other industry supplier. They will also have the other things you need.
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If you were going to mount to the tube in the front you could likely use this. That plastic is likely good to temps of boiling water.
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If you have only a hardware store then you can find these in the plumbing section without the tap.
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Even if you are in Cali you are allowed to repair the system so it does not need to stay stock. If some Dumby tries to tell you otherwise point out the system still functions as it was designed the path the air takes is not legislated.
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post #248 of 327 Old 20th October 2015, 04:36 AM
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Sailor24, I agree with your thoughts on repairing the system. I do not want to crack open my heads if nothing is wrong with the engine, and I also want a permanent fix. If the other BMW engines like the V12s are designed like the bypass in this thread, I do not see a problem with the bypass.

Regarding those stainless clamps, I do have quite a few Granger warehouses around my area so I'm sure I could find them. Are those female threaded? The alternative was to take the main line to a welder and have them weld the compression fitting on. I feel it's a viable option since I have to pull the main line off. I also really think it'll look cleaner.

I'm having trouble searching for the oil waste line option you mentioned. Could you point me to it?

Thanks for clarifying your choice on tubing size. I'll stick with your 3/8" recommendation. I'll post pics and thank you again for the thread and pointers.

Last edited by Keith Nguyen; 20th October 2015 at 04:38 AM.
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post #249 of 327 Old 20th October 2015, 07:14 AM
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Those fittings have no threads, a compression fittings goes on. Go to Granger they will give you what you need. The tubing you will likely have to get at an auto store it is the "new" fuel line.
Basically they drill in on an angle using a jig and slide the tube in and weld it. The jig is simple, drill a hole down thru a piece of hard wood and then cut across the hole on the angle you want and clamp to the exhaust.

Last edited by Sailor24; 20th October 2015 at 07:19 AM.
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post #250 of 327 Old 7th January 2016, 09:43 PM
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E39 M5 with Carbon buildup

My 2002 M5 has just been diagnosed with Carbon build up. Is there any new information about this issue?
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