Replacing Valve Cover Gaskets - Page 19 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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Old 8th March 2016, 08:42 PM
M5Quest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YucA View Post
Talking about the intake "horns" in the plenum? They are velocity stacks. Changing the length of these changes the intake tract length, which in turn changes where the engine makes peak power... Leaving them off will destroy your usable torque/power range.

It is pretty much like this without getting too deep: intake tract length from valve to intake "opening". Shorten the length and peak power moves UP the RPM range. Lengthen the tract, and peak power moves down the rpm range...

Thanks! I had no clue about this stuff! Looks like the E60 M5 doesn't have any horns in the intake box... Is that why the torque peak is higher in the rev band? Probably they couldn't implement it due to lack of space?
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Old 26th April 2016, 06:22 PM
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I tackled this project, replacing oil separators and spark plugs recently. It took 2 hours to take everything apart using a cordless ratchet. Took 8 hours to clean and put everything back together.

Passenger side was not too shabby, driver side was tight. Removing the screws that hold the oil filter housing helped in creating more space
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Old 25th June 2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mPower<3 View Post
I tackled this project, replacing oil separators and spark plugs recently. It took 2 hours to take everything apart using a cordless ratchet. Took 8 hours to clean and put everything back together.

Passenger side was not too shabby, driver side was tight. Removing the screws that hold the oil filter housing helped in creating more space
Agreed on OFH, I unbolted the bracket as well which helped. Took about 5hrs for me today but I was also doing the thermostat so I kept the intake manifold off when I don't with the valve covers. I thought the driver's side would be way more frustrating than it actually was.

Thanks to those that advised on watching out for the metal washers falling into and around the spark plug - in my paranoia I removed each one with a flathead in one hand and magnet in the other.

Seeing the CPS's and TPS's (I'm still on the stockers with 80K miles) so accessible with everything removed was a bit of a tease. I'll have to pull the manifold off again soon as it was a bit oily so/wet so separators need to be replaced.
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Old 16th July 2017, 04:54 AM
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I'm in the middle of replacing mine and I noticed the hex nuts for the velocity stacks are nylocks which should be replaced, but I didn't see anyone replacing them.

Is everyone just re-using theirs, or are people seeing regular hex nuts?


'03 M5 | 987.2 Cayman | @kian.ski
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Old 16th July 2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kiznarsh View Post
I'm in the middle of replacing mine and I noticed the hex nuts for the velocity stacks are nylocks which should be replaced, but I didn't see anyone replacing them.

Is everyone just re-using theirs, or are people seeing regular hex nuts?

Yes they are nyloc, reused mine once as it's rare to go that far in. Cheap to replace after a few removals.

Simon
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Old 18th July 2017, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiznarsh View Post
I'm in the middle of replacing mine and I noticed the hex nuts for the velocity stacks are nylocks which should be replaced, but I didn't see anyone replacing them.

Is everyone just re-using theirs, or are people seeing regular hex nuts?

I always replace mine, they are one-time use per TIS and do some loose with heat cycles. They are cheap.

Ilse: 2002 E39M5 / TiAg / Tubi Rumore Stg 2 / E60 shifter / PowerFlex / Intravee II / KCA-420i / Jim Blanton 40% 3.45 diff / NCS coding / StrongStrut STB / Coby Alcantara wheel, shift and e-brake / Rogue Tranny Mounts / Mk IV / RK Plenum Plates

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Old 20th September 2017, 08:42 AM
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Hi, everyone. New owner about 3 months now. Any DIY on how to replace valve cover gasket. Can't find any. Thank you.
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Old 20th September 2017, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EddieM5CA View Post
Hi, everyone. New owner about 3 months now. Any DIY on how to replace valve cover gasket. Can't find any. Thank you.
lmgtfy

Check out the one by sheefo2k- a few links down the list.

You'll also want to get familiar with the DIY Sticky, there's a VCG DIY there as well.

Edit: Ehh, you're in the very thread that is the sticky DIY! Post #18.

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Last edited by Ibmotoren; 20th September 2017 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 20th September 2017, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibmotoren View Post
lmgtfy

Check out the one by sheefo2k- a few links down the list.

You'll also want to get familiar with the DIY Sticky, there's a VCG DIY there as well.
Thank you. Will do.
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Old 21st March 2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by CWY_M5 View Post
Okay, you asked for it, here's the Valve Cover Gasket DIY step by step:


Start – this is how the engine looks like:



  • Remove cabin air filter boxes
    • Remove cover
    • Remove clip and hood switch connector (driver side only)
    • Unclip boot to cabin filter housing
    • Remove cabin filter housing
    • Turn boot upwards (fragile fingers), then remove
  • Remove air intake boots, or entire air filter housing cover w/ MAF
    • Disconnect MAF connectors
    • Pay attention to cables tied to the intake boot (elbow)
    • Loosen hose clamp, and remove boot

Here’s how it should look like now


  • Remove 11 bolts on the plenum cover – DON’T DROP THEM. (size 10)
    • installation: torque to 5nm, inside first, then outside. Then to 10nm, inside first, then outside

Here’s how it should look like now


  • Remove all the horns (size 8, 2 per horn)
    • Cylinder 1 and 5 are unique, all others are identical. Note their orientation, mark them before removing if you want to be safe
  • Loosen two screws that hold the oil separator to the plenum housing
  • remove (carefully) the oil separator from plenum housing
  • loosen hose clamp to the base of the oil separators, remove them (I cleaned mine with carb cleaner, they were filthy)
  • loosen hose clamp to the base of the plenum housing

Close up pictures, all 4 hose clamps shown






  • Remove screws (LOTS of them) that hold the plenum housing size 10
    • 16 on the driver side, 17 on the passenger side
    • installation: torque to 5nm, inside first, then outside. Then to 10nm, inside first, then outside
  • Wiggle the plenum housing, patiently and slowly, it should detach
  • You should remove the intake gaskets at this point. Use a small flathead screw driver to remove hose clamp from the center of the engine
Picture shows passenger side with intake gaskets removed, right side still on. That’s what you see AFTER removing the plenum housing



Everything here on is similar on both sides
  • Remove ignition coil cover – 2x 10mm nuts
  • Remove all the ignition coils, 2 per coil 10mm nuts
  • Remove all ground wires (3x), and the nuts holding the ignition coil wires (2x)

Here’s where you are now:


  • Remove a whole bunch of valve cover gasket nuts (DON”T DROP THEM like I did) (10mm, tightening torque 7.5 ft-lb)
    • Driver side, remove the battery terminal nut (19mm?). Disconnect Battery in your trunk first.
    • Passenger side, remove the oil cap
  • Now the fun begin, pull, wiggle, grab from the front of the valve cover (where vent hose goes), and pull, wiggle, swear, pull some more, wiggle, and HOPE it comes off soon.
  • When it’s off, you’ll have to carefully pull things off, without scratching too much. Driver side is harder than passenger side – less room

Here’s what you should see on the passenger side when you remove

Valve Cover on the floor


  • Clean the grooves on the cover with metal wire brush
  • Clean the head joint surfaces with carb cleaner, ensure CLEAN
  • Apply silicon at 6 places
    • Where Vano housing joins the Head toward the front (2x)
    • Each of the 2 corners by the half round toward the back (4x)

Everything is now in reverse order.

See post #14 from M5Joe, that’s what got me thru with this DIY.

Cheers

(Above Drive/Passenger side is based on US LHD model)
Great DYI. Thanks.
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