M5 E34 3.6L 1992 Sterlingsilber in Japan - Page 2 - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
E34 M5 Discussion 1988-1995 Sedan and Touring

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post #11 of 32 Old 4th December 2018, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
Neubauten
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Originally Posted by 6stang9 View Post
A twin to mine, but yours has a few extra options (rear shade, autodip mirror, and heated seats), and I drive the HECK out of mine, too.... except I don't know what color interior you have (sorry, not going look up the code). Yes, the door panels are STILL on my list to re-do. They suck.



The idle is set to 950rpm, so it is probably about right, but I have heard that, while very rare, air leaks can possibly cause some trouble.... I am kidding, I know all about the vacuum system, and not by choice, that would be the first place to look for drivability problems.


I am still trying to get used the LONG throttle pedal, even after 5 years plus, and it drives a lot better when I am not tentative with the input. This is really noticeable when I drive any of my other cars and then back the M5 (which I drive almost every day). It really is different.

My interior is black
Idle is really 950 rpm? That sounds high.
Haven't really notice any issue with throttle pedal... Will definitely have to look into the shitload of vacuum hoses though


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Originally Posted by Bleedsblue View Post
What a great car! I would call that on the low end price wise for a similar car here in the US, as well.

It sounds like you are pretty knowledgeable about next steps on most of the problems you described. I would suggest checking on your variable resonance system on the airbox, which can really turn these cars into dogs under 4500 RPM as described. In fact, your description of the power and being much stronger above about 4500rpm could be exactly that failure. The variable system is responsible for creating something like 40wtq at the wheels at low RPM!

Do you feel there is slack or wasted travel in the throttle pedal? Sometimes a throttle cable adjustment is needed.

Side note: I’m guessing the E36 is a Euro?

Thanks!
I did not know about this variable resonance system... I found some videos and it seems there is some kind of test to check if it works, I will try asap.
However if it does not, what is the solution? Change the part?


And yes my M3 is a Euro model, US models are fortunately not existing outside of the US


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Funny I recall seeing this car, as it was only up pretty briefly and I thought it was a great price (I check Japanese M5 listings regularly since I'm living in Japan at the moment). My M5 is still in the US, but I'd love to bring it to Japan. What BMW shop will you be taking it to for repairs?

It stayed about 2 weeks I guess, indeed I jumped on it quite quickly.
The shop keeper who sold it to me is actually a super nice guy who use to race E30 M3, and is still organizing some track day session in Fuji Speedway. I went there last week with the M3 and we had a great time.
I am maintaining my cars at Bitte Motor Works, in Chiba, not far from Disneyland.
Actually I am hanging with a group of friends with who I am doing Endurance racing and altogether (7 or people now) we are maintaining about 12 cars there, all ///M, Alpina and Porsche, and 3 BMW race cars... So let's say we benefit from special conditions. Service is excellent, prices are super reasonable and I can bring my parts (never buy BMW parts in Japan...).


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Been in Tokyo for a year and a half, seen a broken down E32, a couple E24s, a pristine E28 M5, and not a single E34. Actually saw my first E46 M3 last week, so it seems M cars are just rare in general.

Funny, I see M cars everywhere in Japan
Living there since 8 years though, and frequenting a lot of BMW fans so I might be biased :p
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post #12 of 32 Old 4th December 2018, 05:47 PM
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Yes, the idle is high... it is referenced in the Motronic specs somewhere. I remember looking for that specifically, and if I get a chance, will point you in that direction.


The flap will make a noticeable difference, but again, only with (almost) full throttle, which has a long travel. It feels like VANOS on steroids. The specs on its function are also in that same info, I believe.


The function test is extremely complicated, plan for a couple of days to check it. 1. open hood. 2. start car and watch the flap actuator. It will cycle on/off twice if it works. Done.



You can also test the actual function while driving, but I would not try this with the hood up. If it works, it is not very subtle. You can also put a glob of grease on the tip of the rod (after starting. Self-test, remember?) and do some full throttle driving and see if the grease got transferred to the stop.



I was kidding about the two days thing....

Home of the Silver Bimmers: '91 M5,'99 E36, '98 E36, '84 Euro E24, E46 xiT

Last edited by 6stang9; 4th December 2018 at 07:21 PM.
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post #13 of 32 Old 5th December 2018, 01:43 AM
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Idle is really 950 rpm? That sounds high.
Think the official specs are 970±40, mine hovers around 950 rpm, which is pretty standard.

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I am maintaining my cars at Bitte Motor Works, in Chiba, not far from Disneyland.
Actually I am hanging with a group of friends with who I am doing Endurance racing and altogether (7 or people now) we are maintaining about 12 cars there, all ///M, Alpina and Porsche, and 3 BMW race cars... So let's say we benefit from special conditions. Service is excellent, prices are super reasonable and I can bring my parts (never buy BMW parts in Japan...).
The one shop I know is a/tack, the owner always has a couple of rare M cars for sale (like a restored E24 M635i, E30 M3). Yeah none of my friends are Bimmer-philes here
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post #14 of 32 Old 5th December 2018, 11:17 AM
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post #15 of 32 Old 5th December 2018, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sugaki View Post
Think the official specs are 970±40, mine hovers around 950 rpm, which is pretty standard.

The one shop I know is a/tack, the owner always has a couple of rare M cars for sale (like a restored E24 M635i, E30 M3). Yeah none of my friends are Bimmer-philes here

Where are you?

a/tack is a car audio shop isn't it?


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Any cool Japan BMW club stuff there?

No idea actually, the official BMW club seems very elitist here...
You have the BMW Cup however which are BMW-only races organized 5 or 6 times a year, and plenty of BMW drivers on circuits, like in Idler's races. I am not so much doing car events outside of races or track days...
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post #16 of 32 Old 6th December 2018, 01:53 AM
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Where are you?

a/tack is a car audio shop isn't it?
A/tack sells cars and maintains a repair shop--the guy that runs it was a former BMW tech, and tracks his cars. He owns a S50 BMW stroked.

https://www.facebook.com/%E6%A0%AA%E...038/?ref=br_rs

I'm in Tokyo, near Shinjuku. What about yourself?
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post #17 of 32 Old 7th December 2018, 09:39 PM
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post #18 of 32 Old 8th December 2018, 10:35 PM
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I used to own GD55498, it's now happily in Texas. Great cars, you will enjoy it.
That blue is something special in person

-Brent www.angryasssolutions.com
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post #19 of 32 Old 8th December 2018, 10:44 PM
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I used to own GD55498, it's now happily in Texas. Great cars, you will enjoy it.
That blue is something special in person [IMG class=inlineimg]/vbulletin/images/M5Board_vbtoucan/smilies/tango_face_wink.png[/IMG]
I know. I haven’t seen or heard about the car since He got the title. I am assuming it’s well. I was hoping that I would hear how it drives in comparison to the others he owns. I was told it wa sorted but have nothing to compare to. A guy with 4-5 others would be a good judge of that. I do miss it.
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post #20 of 32 Old 9th December 2018, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 6stang9 View Post
Yes, the idle is high... it is referenced in the Motronic specs somewhere. I remember looking for that specifically, and if I get a chance, will point you in that direction.


The flap will make a noticeable difference, but again, only with (almost) full throttle, which has a long travel. It feels like VANOS on steroids. The specs on its function are also in that same info, I believe.


The function test is extremely complicated, plan for a couple of days to check it. 1. open hood. 2. start car and watch the flap actuator. It will cycle on/off twice if it works. Done.



You can also test the actual function while driving, but I would not try this with the hood up. If it works, it is not very subtle. You can also put a glob of grease on the tip of the rod (after starting. Self-test, remember?) and do some full throttle driving and see if the grease got transferred to the stop.



I was kidding about the two days thing....

Drove the car today, in fact Idling seems to stabilize around 950 rpm, so I guess it is normal.


However I checked the resonance valve and, well it is trying to move but it barely does... So I need to fix that!
What should I look into? Vaccum hoses or the valve itself? Is it something I can clean and repair or should I change it straight away?
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