1991 E34 M5 Oil Pump Priming - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
E34M51991
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1991 E34 M5 Oil Pump Priming

Hello everyone I am new to the forum. I have looked around a lot trying to find a answer to how to prime the oil pump in my 91 M5. I have tried bumping the starter but I am not getting any oil pressure. I have read on the forum if you have a extra oil filter cap to drill a hole and put a nipple on it. This is my question because I have read different things in the forums. Do you pull a vacuum using the nipple like you are getting air out of the brake lines or do you pump oil into the oil filter housing. Thanks in advanced any help would be appreciated.
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post #2 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 05:56 AM
DiegoR
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Did you rebuild your engine?

Euro M3'87 NogaroSilver/Euro E34 M5 '93/Porsche 993 TT 97' Euro/Porsche 993 Carrera 95' Euro/Skyline R33 GT-R
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post #3 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 08:56 AM
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post #4 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 10:00 AM
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There are several ways.

- Prime it before you mount it (in a bad with oil and drive it with a electrical screwdriver, for example)
- Prime it before you but the sump on the engine (what I am doing, first before you mount the cylinder head and after it) No contamination enters the engine that way.
- Once the sump is installed it can take a serious amount of time until you see oil coming from the oil filter (once the cap is removed). It has no use to top up the oil filter housing because 1 way valves are installed and once you remove the center bolt that fixes the cap it will drain the filter housing (for that reason it has an o-ring at the end).

- In your situation, I would remove the oil filter housing and oil cooler. You will see 2 holes on the engine when the filter house is removed. Fill the lower hole (of 2) with oil and crank the engine backwards by hand (make sure you remove the valve cover to check timing after you have done this). After a few turns and some oil crank it the right direction. The oil pump should sufficiently be primed and pump oil. Put everything back and crank it (without spark plugs). Since the valve cover is removed you can also check if oil is getting to the head (camshafts, etc).

To///Mba
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post #5 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 05:28 PM
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When I rebuild any engine what I do is exactly that in a bad/can put oil, sink the oil pump pick up, add oil thought the gears of the oil if necesary and the spin the gear until it start to flow oil, then I install it in the engine and yada yada.... Then when all is ready to crank for the first time, what I do is crank the engine with out spark plugs for two reasons:

1) Help starter to work easier and you battery

2) And maybe the most importan, even when is already coated the bearings in oil at the assamby stage, is mainly to avoid "the impact" of the cycle of compression in each cylinder and get probably a it of wear of the bearings while build up oil pressure.

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post #6 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 11:04 PM
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When filling the engine with oil for the first time, I pump 2 liters of oil through the oil galley port on the front driver side of the cam tray to fill all the galleys, pour half a liter across the tops of the cams and chains and the rest fill as normal.

And as stated above, def. remove all the spark plugs, disable fuel pump and ignition and crank until the light goes off. Sometimes it takes a bit, but if everything is lubed up upon assembly, nothing can get hurt at cranking rpms.

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Last edited by jibbajabba; 5th August 2014 at 11:07 PM.
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post #7 of 18 Old 5th August 2014, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jibbajabba View Post
When filling the engine with oil for the first time, I pump 2 liters of oil through the oil galley port on the front driver side of the cam tray to fill all the galleys, pour half a liter across the tops of the cams and chains and the rest fill as normal.

And as stated above, def. remove all the spark plugs, disable fuel pump and ignition and crank until the light goes off. Sometimes it takes a bit, but if everything is lubed up upon assembly, nothing can get hurt at cranking rpms.
^^ +2!

&

Oops! looks like I missed pointing out that step 2 requires to take off the DME/fuel pump/injectors relay (which ever) or just dissconect it the fuel injector connectors.

Euro M3'87 NogaroSilver/Euro E34 M5 '93/Porsche 993 TT 97' Euro/Porsche 993 Carrera 95' Euro/Skyline R33 GT-R
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post #8 of 18 Old 6th August 2014, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone who replied. The reason for this is due to the oil pump chain tensioner braking and falling into my oil pan. Since I dropped my pan I put new rod bearings on and rebuilt my oil pump. I have ordered a new oil filter hosing gasket since it seems I will be removing the oil filter hosing and I am hoping to get it done this weekend. Thanks
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post #9 of 18 Old 10th August 2014, 04:34 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tomba it worked great, now I can finally drive my M5 again. Thanks to all
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post #10 of 18 Old 8th June 2019, 04:13 AM
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Bumping this thread because I have the same problem... no oil pressure. Nothing was opened on the engine, and it wasn't drained of oil. However, the front was on jack stands for a couple months, but not high enough of an angle that the pickup would have been unsubmerged.

So far I have read that the relief valve can get stuck open, but that it usually happens from gunk buildup. This car has always had short oil change intervals with synthetic and only has 132k miles on it, so I would be surprised if that were the case. Is it more likely that the oil pump has lost its prime from sitting on an incline? I get what Tomba is saying about removing filter housing, but why the oil cooler? Is he talking about the cooler in the bumper?

Looking at this diagram of the gasket, am I pouring oil in the small oval hole at the bottom? https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_1267

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