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ZHP Knob Praises - Part II

11K views 22 replies 11 participants last post by  D-RodM5  
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, so most previous threads of this type of DIY were mainly before and after with a brief explanation. I'm more of a visual learner so hopefully this helps others like me. And like I've said before, everything is better with pictures! This is a DIY for a ZHP knob installation using the OEM shifter boot.

Tools needed: 1) Small wire cutters 2) Single zip tie 3) Blow dryer 4) Heat shrink tubing 5) X-acto knife

I've yet to figure out how to type between pictures, so all the steps are first and the pictures after in sequence.

Step 1 - Lift stock shifter boot from the console and over the stock shifter knob. You should see the wire that lights up the knob - disconnect it.
Step 2 - With the blow dryer, apply some heat to the knob and metal shifter [rod] for 10 minutes or so.
Step 3 - Believe it or not, after doing Step 2, I was able to remove the stock knob with my right hand and with very little force. I was actually very surprised at how easy it came off! Just pull straight up.
Step 4 - On a flat surface (dinning room table), cut the stock shifter boot from the stock knob using an X-acto knife. I recommend cutting from the outside. With your finger, feel for the bottom edge of the stock knob where the leather boot meets the bottom edge of the stock knob. This will give you the cleanest, straight cut of the leather boot. I screwed up a bit and cut with the boot inside out and it wasn't the cleanest. It wasn't terrible either, but lesson learned (you can't see the cut leather anyway since it'll be folded over).
Step 5 - Set the stock shifter boot (still attached to the ring) aside and you should now have the stock knob with the wire still attached.
Step 6 - The knob I ordered (off eBay from Germany) came with wires attached to it. With a wire stripper I exposed about an inch of wire for each (red and black, so positive and negative).
Step 7 - I cut the wire coming from the bottom of the stock knob at around 2 inches, stripped about an inch for each and made the connection of these wires to the ZHP knob wires (see pictures below). I used heat shrink tubing to hold the wire connections in place. I tested it and it worked like a charm!
Step 8 - Now you can take the stock shift boot assembly and feed the ZHP knob through it. Place the ZHP knob on the metal shifter (shaft) but do not completely seat it. Zip tie the leather boot just below where the knob sits once you are comfortable with how much of the boot to zip tie. Then make the final push on the ZHP knob to completely seat it on the metal shifter.
Step 9 - Bring the leather boot down around the new knob and reseat the plastic ring to the center console.
Step 10 - Enjoy the new shifter!!

It sits straight (not crooked) and has even illumination!
 

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#3 ·
Burnout, yeah I noticed the head on the zip tie I used sticks out a bit. Good idea about usinga metal zip tie. The nice thing is I can go back and easily cut it and change it out! Thanks!
 
#5 ·
Ok, yeah I switched out the zip tie with a metal (flat) one. Picture makes it look worse than it really was. My leather boot no longer has a tumor!
 
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#22 ·
Can u send a link to a pic of the metal flat one please.

And I read on an old thread that it would be wiser to replace it w a 540 boot and sell the oem one? Is that really worth it would someone actually want to buy it? ( my is wood )
 
#6 ·
Thanks very much for this! I'll be using this DIY in a few days
 
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#7 ·
^ Sure thing! If you have any questions just post here. BTW, thanks to member Hein for spurring all this! :hihi:
 
#8 ·
Isn't there a paradigm shift to look at the F10 knob instead of the ZHP. Brighter and ready to go illumination instead of splicing with post 2000. And a boot already attached which requires a re-glue to old frame. I just did one yesterday.
 
#10 ·
It's all preference really. The ZHP is bright enough and can be ordered with or without illumination. There is a great write-up on installing the F10 knob (which is very similar to the ZHP knob, if not based off of the ZHP knob). Personally I just didn't want to deal with stretching leather, re-gluing, and cutting up a brand new knob (I tend to man-handle things ouich). Post a pic of your installation!
 
#12 ·
^ Lol'd! Yeah I kinda felt the same way! :haha2:
 
#13 ·
Only thing I done different was I didn't cut the boot of the stock knob incase I ever want to fit it again. I bought a E39 leather boot on ebay, very cheap they are to. I have all my stock parts to change back if needed.
 
#14 ·
When I first bought my car the shifter/knob/boot was in horrible condition. I think it was the first mod I did to my car. I bought the knob with the boot attached, plug and play and just reglued the shift knob to the factory frame. I also did the E60 "short shifter" at the same time....LOVE IT!
 
#15 ·
Finally getting to this tomorrow. It'll be my first 'mod'
Where's everyone getting these metal zip ties at ?
 
#16 ·
Did mine yesterday. Got the F10 knob from Tischer, the new leather is soooooo nice but I didn't want to fiddle with stretching it out so I cut the knob off the boot. I decided to just give the old knob a quick yank to see how hard it was going to be to get off. Of course, it came off with a little effort and then my hand crashed into the rear view mirror, popping it off. Swell. Fortunately nothing was broken and it snapped right back on. Then it was past the point of no return and I cut the old knob off my old boot.

Getting the white ring off the F10 knob was a little tricky as I didn't want to mess up the wires. It's glued to the boot but not very well, a steady pull of the boot coaxed it off the ring. Then, I used a screwdriver to pry the ring from the knob. I cut it out with some tin snips as close as I dared to the wires, leaving a small piece of the ring still attached where the wires run through it. I moved the wire sleeve down which allowed me to move the small remaining ring piece down to where it's completely out of the way under the boot. I left the front (longest) tab on the shifter, probably didn't need to, but it's not noticeable. I snapped off the other tabs.

Installing was very easy. The hardest part was making sure the ziptie (metal, Home Depot) stayed in the thin part of the shifter as I slowly tightened it. You're also trying to make sure the boot is even and isn't pushed through (technically down) more on one side vs. another.
 
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#17 ·
Nice! Let's see some pics!

Metal zip ties can be found at Home Depot or Lowe's.
 
#18 ·
Here's mine. I should get to Home Depot to swap out my plastic to a metal tie

Image
 
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#21 · (Edited)
This has a picture of them side by side but no dimensions. I want to say the ZHP/F10 knob is about 3/4" shorter but don't quote me, I seem to remember reading that somewhere.

LeatherZ: BMW F10 M5 Illuminated ZHP Knob

EDIT: If you drill into the 3rd picture they are saying the ZHP/F10 knob is 3" while the stock knob is 3.75".
 
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#23 · (Edited)
I doubt anyone will want to purchase a cut up leather boot, so I just re-used mine.

Here is a link to flat metal zip ties: Snap Strip Stainless Steel Zip Tie 10 Pack 14" Long : Amazon.com : Automotive
If you're interested you only need the 6" ties. You can find them at Lowe's or Home Depot.

I actually went back to a regular zip tie and just made sure to hide the head of that zip tie real well, looks fine now. The metal zip tie is difficult to get on real tight.