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Discussion Starter #22
LoL, I suppose some of you have funds for proper tools and such. I will one day also, but now I have a family to raise and the M5 is kind of in the way of that. I should have gotten the M5 sooner in my life :)

I did spend about 1/2 my day lifting the car and making sure it's sitting safely on super heavy duty stands. I have a 3rd jack that is sitting under the car in the middle just as a precaution. It's not supporting anything but I feel better having it there.

I also didn't take much pictures today but here's one of the mess on my bench
 

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I will have an question about the tensioners on the HP vanos pump, the spring and plunger did fall out on me and i'm not sure how it goes back together, does anyone have any tips ?
The tensioner is a 3-piece device. See #5,6,7 here:

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

#7 may be still within the block or have come out. Make sure you find it before reassembly.

As for #3 and 4 I remember it being obvious when installed backwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hey guys, I'm stuck trying to remove the small blue filter from the bedplate...

Anyone have any suggestions? it turns round and round but will not come out even with some prying. Must I use more force or damage it trying to remove it?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Hey guys, I'm stuck trying to remove the small blue filter from the bedplate...

Anyone have any suggestions? it turns round and round but will not come out even with some prying. Must I use more force or damage it trying to remove it?
i got it out. i'll post a photo later
 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I don't think a video would help much...

The vanos pump is very simple to take apart, clean, inspect and put back together.

There are a few things that could be described with more detail to make it a little easier but if you are able to change oil and brakes on your car you should be able to perform this job too. It's just a long and slow process to make sure it's done exactly right.

I will make my own recommendations as to what I would add to the DIY for this job later. Right now I have a problem as I found a spun bearing and I'm trying to decide what the next step is.

The crank shaft has no damage but the rod and cap appear to have some scratching. the back side of rod bearings from this cylinder are slightly scratched also, but the stamping on the back side is still somewhat visible, which *could* mean that the damage is very minor and might still be ok, but I have emailed jcolley asking for advice in this regard.
It might be worth wile replacing the rod :(
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Here are some photos..
1. all rod bearings, surprisingly #3 was not so bad. As some of you may recall I had a broken valve spring on #3 which was last year's battle.
2. the worst cylinder which had spun the rod bearings, #1.

3 and 4.
The last two are of the vanos high pressure hose, as you can see I tied a string to the old one to then use as a guide/fish to make sure the new hose goes back down the same path.
if you click on photo 4 it will rotate the image right side up.
 

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Are you sure you spun a bearing? Doesn't look like that to me (been there done that, not on an S85 thankfully). Post more pics of the back of the bearings and the crank journal itself.

Spun bearings typically come out paper thin. For them to spin you must have a gap bigger than the thickness of the bearing ends. Yours don't look like that. If they did spin then your crank must be pulled out and refurb'd, and the con rod replaced. No other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
my pointers to anyone doing this ( I will edit this as I go along and remember what to add )

- you can do the vanos hose without removing the pulley off water pump. You have to loosen the bracket which has two bolts behind the pulley, they are in a terrible location and very difficult to get at, but I was able to do it. This allowed enough play in the external high pressure hose ( which goes down and to the accumulator ) to be able to move it out of the way and loosen/ remove and re-install the banjo bolt on the outside of engine. In photo 5 you can see the connection is loose becuase I haven't put the hose all the way into it's seat yet. It was a real ***** to remove this hose, first I had to clamp it with some wise grips and rotate it side to side to break it free from it's seat, then I was able to put a flat blade screw driver under it and lightly pried up as I kept rotating it. Eventually it broke free and popped up and was out of the seat. Then, pulling it out of the motor was another challenge, I had to hole the external line out of the way and I had JUST ENOUGH clearance to pull the internal hose up, and then I had to figure out the best angle to pull it out at - and this I cannot really explain, you will need to basically turn it in numerous positions and try and pull up. I did go back under the car to make sure it's free and not holding onto something a few times.

On re-installing, I put some lube on the new o-ring supplied by Jim (jcolley/ fast attack motorsports).

- when removing the rod bearing caps from underneath, i had to give them a light but firm tap with a rubber mallet for them to come off their seat. I ended up putting the rod bolts back in and tightening them almost all the way, I left about 1 or 2 turns before they would snug back up. this would keep them in the same position when coming off. I also tapped in a downwards motion on the one edge of the cap. surprisingly (maybe?) #3 was the worst to get off.
This wasn't mentioned anywhere but the only other option I had was to try and clamp them with wise grips to pull down, I chose the tap first and it seemed to work very well.

- to remove the small blue filter from between vanos pump and bed plate, I had to put a screw into the old one, I basically measured the new one and a screw to make sure it isn't too big, and got about 1 turn into it while holding it with a screw driver so it doesn't' turn on me, then I was able to pull down on the screw and it came out. Putting the new one in was no big deal, but it did not push in all the way like the original was in. I did find a photo in jcolley's original post "boom goes the dynamite" which showed this blue filter in the same position as mine, so I assumed when I put the vanos pump back in, it will push it up all the way as needed. I will try to find a photo to add here.

- to turn the engine over, I used a 32mm socket on the main drive pulley on front of engine - I wasn't able to find this info anywhere so when I went to my dad's to borrow tools I had to grab a few sizes to make sure one of them works, to avoid multiple trips :)

Thats it for now.
 

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Looking at pic number 1.... sht, I've never seen bottom ones as damaged as yours. Cyls 9 and 10 look as bad as cyl 1.

And looking more closely at cyl 1 the key is gone, so they did spin. Sorry man....
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Are you sure you spun a bearing? Doesn't look like that to me (been there done that, not on an S85 thankfully). Post more pics of the back of the bearings and the crank journal itself.

Spun bearings typically come out paper thin. For them to spin you must have a gap bigger than the thickness of the bearing ends. Yours don't look like that. If they did spin then your crank must be pulled out and refurb'd, and the con rod replaced. No other way.
I don't know 100%, so I'm asking here for advice regading this spun bearing...
The bearings were not sitting in the rod and rod cap in the 0 degree orientation, they were basically 90 degrees out. So the joints between the two rod bearings was basically straight down.
 

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How you are not needing a new motor is a miracle. You are one lucky dude. That one bearing looks like somebody chewed on the edge.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

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Are you sure you spun a bearing? Doesn't look like that to me (been there done that, not on an S85 thankfully). Post more pics of the back of the bearings and the crank journal itself.

Spun bearings typically come out paper thin. For them to spin you must have a gap bigger than the thickness of the bearing ends. Yours don't look like that. If they did spin then your crank must be pulled out and refurb'd, and the con rod replaced. No other way.
Edit: I've never seen bearings like this, see below.

- you can do the vanos hose without removing the pulley off water pump. You have to loosen the bracket which has two bolts behind the pulley, they are in a terrible location and very difficult to get at, but I was able to do it. This allowed enough play in the external high pressure hose ( which goes down and to the accumulator ) to be able to move it out of the way and loosen/ remove and re-install the banjo bolt on the outside of engine. In photo 5 you can see the connection is loose becuase I haven't put the hose all the way into it's seat yet. It was a real ***** to remove this hose, first I had to clamp it with some wise grips and rotate it side to side to break it free from it's seat, then I was able to put a flat blade screw driver under it and lightly pried up as I kept rotating it. Eventually it broke free and popped up and was out of the seat. Then, pulling it out of the motor was another challenge, I had to hole the external line out of the way and I had JUST ENOUGH clearance to pull the internal hose up, and then I had to figure out the best angle to pull it out at - and this I cannot really explain, you will need to basically turn it in numerous positions and try and pull up. I did go back under the car to make sure it's free and not holding onto something a few times.

- when removing the rod bearing caps from underneath, i had to give them a light but firm tap with a rubber mallet for them to come off their seat. I ended up putting the rod bolts back in and tightening them almost all the way, I left about 1 or 2 turns before they would snug back up. this would keep them in the same position when coming off. I also tapped in a downwards motion on the one edge of the cap. surprisingly (maybe?) #3 was the worst to get off.
This wasn't mentioned anywhere but the only other option I had was to try and clamp them with wise grips to pull down, I chose the tap first and it seemed to work very well.

- to remove the small blue filter from between vanos pump and bed plate, I had to put a screw into the old one, I basically measured the new one and a screw to make sure it isn't too big, and got about 1 turn into it while holding it with a screw driver so it doesn't' turn on me, then I was able to pull down on the screw and it came out. Putting the new one in was no big deal, but it did not push in all the way like the original was in. I did find a photo in jcolley's original post "boom goes the dynamite" which showed this blue filter in the same position as mine, so I assumed when I put the vanos pump back in, it will push it up all the way as needed. I will try to find a photo to add here.
I don't remember any issues removing the pulley bolts. With belt still on, loosen the 4 pulley bolts. Remove belt, then remove bolts and pulley. Even then there's not much room to work. And yes to get the banjo fitting through the block you have to turn it in every possible way.

I was able to remove the con rod caps by hand only. Thumb on one bolt end and index on the opposite bolt end. I guess it helps if you have large hands.

As for the new filter I did tap it with a rubber mallet until it was flush with the block. If it gets caught between pump and block then the pump will not be fully seated.

I don't know 100%, so I'm asking here for advice regading this spun bearing...
The bearings were not sitting in the rod and rod cap in the 0 degree orientation, they were basically 90 degrees out. So the joints between the two rod bearings was basically straight down.
They spun, fact. But it's surprising to see only the bearing keys gone AND still being of reasonable thickness. So maaaybe there was still enough oil film between brgs and crank. Then you may be right as to just having to change a con rod. Must measure that journal in every possible direction to make sure its round, and will have to pull the head to get a new con rod anyway. At that point I don't know if it'd make more sense to just pull the engine altogether...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
lol yea I'm thinking the same, although I'm not feeling as good as that sounds.

So any suggestions what the next step is?
Anyone have any used rod - matching rod caps they want to sell me? Obviously non spun/non damaged?

If I could source it used I might start removing the head. I would still like to get Jim's opinion here, since like I said the damage is so minor it might still be okay to put new rod bearings in and away we go.
There is no play when I did assemble this rod/cap with the new BE bearings and snugged up the bolts.
 

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Really?? what if I removed the head would it come out thru the top?
I'd think the engine is coming out for that....that's a big project. I could be wrong, maybe that is doable...without splitting the bottom end.

Could you post pics of the inside track of the vanos bearing ring? Make sure the wear is even 360 degrees. the width should be about 6mm and about 0.5 MM deep. Also, each needle bearing/roller should freely rotate.
 
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