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This is why Android units will always be better than anything else IMHO. Customization. Apple Caryplay and Resler/IBUS integration. Ease of swapping units out (upgradability down the road). And they obviously have the best phone integration which is the computational center of our lives at the moment.
 

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Absolutely incorrect. It is not a screen mirror in any way shape or form. It’s Apple CarPlay - exactly like every OE integration I’ve used in rental cars. CarPlay actually runs on your phone, not the head unit. The USB dongle simply serves as a conduit for video display and touchscreen input.

The dongle is not an Apple-licensed product in the same way that my USB-to-Lightning cable isn’t an Apple-licensed product. Yet, it still works.
Hi Rontgen,

Here's the official Apple CarPlay website;

https://www.apple.com/uk/ios/carplay/

You can see the 'official Aftermarket brands' which are licensed to run the Apple CarPlay operating system on their head units.

As you can see, there's no Chinese brands listed.

Apple Car Play is an operating system designed to be incorporated into brand new cars at the factory. An 'overlap' is that those licensed aftermarket brands can use the operating system on their head units so that older cars where such a unit can be fitted can have Apple CarPlay. CarPlay has specific aspects designed to make driving safer when connected to an iphone, here's an overview of what it is

https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/what-is-apple-carplay/ - Apple CarPlay doesn't run or get installed on your handset. I'm not an Apple handset user, but I believe within the phone's OS, there's the capability to 'connect with a genuine Car Play device' so it essentially goes into 'Car Play mode'.

The $65 dongle as mentioned isn't running CarPlay, nor are any chinese clone type head units. You don't have to even have it connected and the head unit will still function - Genuine Apple Car Play only works when connected to a iphone.

Now I know many owners will not really care and will buy the Dongle so will be able to plug their iphone in and use the head unit's controls. I'm simply pointing out that that, isn't genuine Car Play and the 'marketing' by the chinese brands is incorrect in order to dupe people into thinking it is.

If I'm totally wrong, and Apple have licensed their operating system to a chinese factory somewhere, I will update my knowledge and recall/delete the above.

Cheers, Dennis!
 

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Discussion Starter #64
So does the headunit see the dongle as an A/V input? What lets the headunit know to let the dongle take over?


There is an app that runs on the head unit called “AutoPlayBox” that looks like this when it’s selected, but no phone connected (it also runs in the background)



As you connect your phone to a standard Lightning cable, the screen changes to this:



And your phone screen briefly displays the CarPlay logo as iOS starts the CarPlay interface on the phone

After a couple seconds you’re ready to go. Note that if you take a screen shot with your phone, 2 images are captured in your Camera Roll - the native screen of your iPhone and the CarPlay. It essentially acts as an “extended desktop” to use Windows terminology



 

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Discussion Starter #65
Dennis,

You’re arguing semantics. I have no delusions that this $65 product from China (via eBay) has been blessed as “genuine” by the folks in Cupertino. But much like my Amazon-brand USB/Lightning cable, so long as it has the desired effect when I plug it in, I don’t really care if it’s genuine.

CarPlay as a stand-alone operating system was attempted by several aftermarket brands (Alpine & Pioneer if memory serves) and received generally poor reviews due to lack of flexibility. Lend your car to a fiend who doesn’t have an iPhone? Now there’s no car stereo at all.

I rent a lot of cars for business travel and I’m very well versed in what CarPlay is and isn’t. In *every* OE application I’ve used, CarPlay is an extension (or an “app”) of the Native operating system. The functionality is exactly as I described above
 

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Hi Rontgen,

I'm not wishing to 'argue' with you at all, but I understand your feedback there. It's the whole 'Genuine Vs Fake' thing again which can and does apply to a lot of products that are 'desirable' out there. If it functions as you want, then all good, just remember it's not CarPlay and what that was designed for/as.

You are absolutely correct, genuine Car Play means if you have a driver without a phone then the system doesn't work. The reasoning of course behind this is that in the West, smartphone usage is massive and it's now only a relative few who don't have a phone. The manufacturers have wisely adopted both Apple (carplay) and Android (auto) on the same hardware! The high quality brands still do make head units with official CarPlay and theres always improvements and updates so it's getting better since the initial launch of CarPlay. Will be interesting to see how things move ahead over time, both with CarPlay and Android Auto.

We'll return back to the topic of the thread and again, I have zero wish for arguing etc, I much prefer good discussion and viewpoints along with experience and knowledge to help others on the forum.

Cheers, Dennis!
 

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After seeing this thread I decided it was time to update the radio in the m5. I've been wanting to update it's looks since I bought the car but going oem seemed a bit silly as I'd be fitting old tech, but any aftermarket stuff meant I'd lose the BC functionality. Not anymore! The Resler interface allows the radio to communicate with the car's I-bus and the Android based I-bus app can make use of its functionality, bringing virtually all of the BC features to an aftermarket headunit, just what I was after. Also, apparently this combination allows for the digital dsp amp to be used too, though this doesn’t apply to me.

The original setup I had was a cd drive, MID for high BC and I installed the ‘Top HiFi' amp together with speakers in every possible oem position in the car. These are: front door tweeters, mid range and main drivers lower down, rear door tweeters, rear main drivers above the parcel shelf and also two 10" subs under the parcel shelf-similar to the M-audio ones- which are driven by an additional amp I installed in the boot (trunk) next to the HiFi amp.


The radio in the dash had the large radio connector, flat pin. The radio also provided a speaker level output and originally drove only the four main speakers (and little tweeters in the front doors with passive crossovers from the main front speakers).

I fancied using all speaker positions, why not! I discovered that the HiFi amp would drive each of the car's speakers directly, all ten of them, which was great. It did not have an output for subs-no problem. The HiFi amp also takes speaker level inputs, from the front radio. This bit of information I learnt from RichardP (thanks Richard) and saved a lot of experimenting.





The sub amp takes its signal from the rear speaker channels from the headunit, dropped down by a ‘converter' to line level, suitable as an input to an amp.




The amps are powered from the battery connections in the ‘first' distribution fusebox, they are earthed direct to the battery terminal (not to a puny screw driven into the chassis that will rust!). I used the white wire that activates the diversity antenna as a ‘wake up' signal for the sub amp.

I also had an intravee2 setup instead of a cd changer and to give the extra functions it gives. This allowed me to have an ipod with all of my songs on it.

As it happened, my setup allowed for a relatively easy install for an Android unit, the main connector was just behind the radio in the dash (not in the boot), my amp could take speaker level inputs so I could retain the mid range and tweeter speakers


Anyway, I bought an XTRONS PB7839BP direct from the suppliers (Android Car Stereos, Car DVD Players, Head Units | Xtrons) and received a good discount (use code ‘VIP15’ for 15% discount). Delivery was quick and they have been very responsive to a few emails I sent them, can't fault them really.
I also bought a DAB+ usb receiver/decoder, an xtrons bluetooth obd dongle to plug into the car's diagnostic port and a microphone (subsequently not required).
I bought the 3D printed brackets from ‘Da Ondy’ who’s a member on the BMW Xtrons und I-BUS Android App… group on Facebook, it’s well known that the supplied brackets are not very good – there’s a small screw on the back of where it mounts that interferes with how it fits against the brackets and the holes aren’t in the correct position for a good fit. These 3D printed ones allow for the small screw, have the holes in sensible locations and allow for a little adjustment, it's a shame that the suppliers don't give you better brackets!
I also bought a Resler usb interface, from Resler himself.
I paid to unlock the I-bus software.
A bit later I realised that the diversity antenna could be used instead of the DAB antenna but required an extra splitter unit and various antenna cables to make it work, these were bought.
I also discovered that you could use the oem microphone, just make up a cable and run it up to the mic, I had bits for this.

Where did I gather the info: See links below. I translated one or two files into English, I've included them in this post. If you want to see the web pages in English, using Chrome to view will help as it will automatically translate, very handy!

Xtrons website (Android Car Stereos, Car DVD Players, Head Units | Xtrons)
Xtrons/I-bus app Wiki site – (BMW Xtrons Wiki)
I-bus app information and purchase/unlock – BMW IBUS App
Resler interface – IBUS Interface order page
Resler interface fitting – http://download.speedy-pics.de/uploads/safe/Einbauanleitung_Resler_Interface.pdf - I have translated this, file included in this post.
3D printed brackets link – Alternative zu den beigelegten Montagewinkeln ? BMW Xtrons Wiki
Antenna splitter link – Splitter für DAB+ zur Nutzung der OEM-Scheibenantennen ? BMW Xtrons Wiki – I have translated this, file is included in this post.
Using oem microphone link – http://download.speedy-pics.de/uploads/safe/eba_oem-mikro mit xtrons.pdf – I have translated this, file included in this post.
Stopping the screen from going black in reverse when no reversing camera installed – Abschalten des schwarzen Bildschirms (Rückfahrkamera) beim Einlegen des Rückwärtsganges ? BMW Xtrons Wiki .
Installing a different bootlogo – Bootlogo ändern ? BMW Xtrons Wiki


Fitting:
I tried to test the unit ‘on the bench' by hooking up a 12v supply to both yellow and red and earthing (or 0v) for the black. The illumination lights would flash once, but the unit wouldn't switch on! I tried resetting it but still nothing. It was either dead or the canbus interface was causing this ‘issue’.
I had a look on the net, not much info at all but there were a few posts about this. The canbus interface interrupts a few of the signals, if no bus traffic is detected it won't allow the power through. It's very similar regarding the illumination signal apparently, it monitors the orange wire (which would connect to the grey/red in BMW's) and is meant to send the correct information to the unit. A ‘mod' is to remove the orange wire contacts from the canbus interface plug and join them together, so the actual illumination voltage goes direct into the headunit. This is true for the Android 6 ones, I haven't looked to see if it varies with the dimmer in mine yet. If it doesn't I'll probably do this but there might be a chance they've sorted it.

After failing to test it, I removed my MID (Tx10 under volume knob, remove MID, then unscrew the two screws all the way to remove the cd-drive) and tested it directly on the car, it worked great!

I then linked the unit to my phone (using my phone as a Mobile hotspot) and downloaded updates etc.
I also downloaded the I-bus software and unzip to unpack it, then installed it. This was dead easy, I was a bit concerned about this step!
Checked that the phone operates (Bluetooth), worked great.

I connected up the wire tails to the Resler interface to make up an easy connection, removing the three required wires from the MFD connector (12v, gnd and ibus).
Used the file linked above, translated version is included.

No picture sorry, but there are some in the file.

I made an adaptor wire to go from headunit ‘Ant.’ Wire (bullet connector) to the antenna splitter power in (spade connector). I didn't want to cut into any of the original wiring.


Adapter wire to go from Ant wire to the power for the antenna splitter.


The following day I decided was the installation day.

I removed the glovebox side of the lower dash. This required removing the glovebox itself, centre console side panel to access the bolt for the lower dash and all of the screws under the trim and two going up from the inside of the glovebox. The lower dash twisted just enough to manipulate the old radio cage out.




Fitted the lower dash back and then went ahead to fit the supplied gps antenna (my car didn't have nav so no oem gps receiver under rear parcel shelf, if you have this you can get a cable to connect up to it from the headunit).
I positioned the gps receiver next to the passenger airbag, held in place with a thick pad of automotive double-sided foam tape, receiver is very light and this stuff really sticks, I doubt it will go anywhere!).


GPS receiver nestled next to airbag


I folded the wire (there was plenty of it!) and taped it to the steel frame, out of the way but leaving enough of the wire to easily connect to the headunit.


GPS receiver cable folded up and taped to steel frame


I then fitted the 3D printed brackets, adjusted until the unit looked ok to me, might need further adjustment which will be easy enough if required. The brackets did bend a bit though because of the varying thickness of the dash material, billet aluminium could be a possibility...


Left hand 3D printed bracket


Right hand 3D printed bracket


I installed the Resler interface, I-bus app seems happy and was unlocked very easily, just tap on unlock whilst ensuring you're connected to the internet. App finds your chassis no from somewhere (through the ibus) and compares it with the chassis number you entered when purchasing the unlock, this is the internet requiring bit.
Interface and app seems to do what it says it would. I connected the interface to the short usb lead with the green connector, usb 1 (1.1 and 2 protocols).

Fitted DAB antenna splitter (following guide on the Xtrons/I-bus wiki site, I've translated this too..). Decided to mount the unit with double sided tape under the headunit, should be safe and various wires can reach.


View from top left


View from underneath of splitter and DAB


Splitter works well, very good FM and DAB reception.
Fitted the dab usb receiver just behind the antenna splitter, seems ok and wires reach. Connected the yellow usb (2.0) lead to the DAB usb receiver. I had to open the cloth wrap that was around both red and yellow usb wires to fold back the yellow one.
The red usb connector was fed into the glovebox, under the steel brace and through the little gap by the plastic ‘side piece' and steel bracket at the back of the glovebox.

To save quite a bit of space I decided to remove the second large connector that was supplied.
I used two little bits of alu welding wire to push back the tabs to release the contacts out of the connector. I double taped all of the ends.


Second ‘large’ connector removed, contacts taped up

Everything was connected together and tested, all seem good so far.
Next job was to run a wire from original microphone down to unit.



Microphone lead with three pin connector. 3.5mm end will be fitted once wire is in position, to get the length ‘just right'.

As it happened I had a Parrot handsfree unit installed so I used the mic wire to pull the new mic wire through. Connected to oem mic as described in write up (translated version here).
This was a bigger job than anticipated, took ages! Roof lining dropped and several dash pieces removed but it was completed in the end. A mono 3.5mm jack was soldered onto the end of the wire and then plugged in to the relevant plug.

To save a bit on the oem antenna cable I fitted an antenna cable extension, this also means that the unit can be removed from the dash and operated with everything working, might come in handy sometime.



Antenna extension cable (Fakra M to to Fakra F)


Then I tried the XTRONS bluetooth code reader/Torque, they worked as expected.

Unit was finally screwed into place. I almost had a little ceremony to remove the protective film over the screen!



Had a fiddle with it and saw that I needed to disable the black screen that appears when in reverse. Followed instructions in the link : Stopping the screen from going black in reverse when no reversing camera installed – Abschalten des schwarzen Bildschirms (Rückfahrkamera) beim Einlegen des Rückwärtsganges ? BMW Xtrons Wiki


I also fancied a different bootlogo, so made one up. Nothing too fancy but it ‘goes’ with the car and it's not seen for long anyway! Installing a different bootlogo – Bootlogo ändern ? BMW Xtrons Wiki



New bootlogo, I like it anyway!


I tried a 64Gb micro sd card I had in my phone, it wouldn't read it. I had to reformat it in the unit. Looking at it on the computer later it turns out it’s formatted as a FAT32 disk.


There is included a wiring diagram but I’ve not seen this available online, so I’ve taken a picture of it, in case it could come in handy sometime:


Included wiring diagram for PB7839BP

Thoughts.

Looks very good, oem and takes its place well.
Sound seems fine, it seems to work ok with my setup and I'm happy enough with it.
FM radio works great.
DAB radio works great but it's not keen when restarted, it says ‘connecting' but never actually does connect-or maybe I'm not patient enough! I just close the dab app and restart it. Not a biggie but it would have been nice if it just works. There might be a workaround or something.

Google maps is installed and we all know how it works, but it needs an internet connection (unless you download the necessary maps before your trip).

I-bus app works great, showing all BC functions and resetting etc.

Very pleased with everything and a big thank you to the guys who've developed the ibus app and the Resler interface and to XTRONS for making the headunits suitable for the e39 and the good customer support.

I hope the original authors of the diy file don’t mind me translating them. I’ve left their names and links in them and linked to the original files here.

Next up, I want to test my ipod connected to the red usb connector in the glovebox and I wonder what is the ipod selection in the factory menu...
 

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Discussion Starter #68
If it functions as you want, then all good, just remember it's not CarPlay and what that was designed for/as.



You are absolutely correct, genuine Car Play means if you have a driver without a phone then the system doesn't work. The reasoning of course behind this is that in the West, smartphone usage is massive and it's now only a relative few who don't have a phone. The manufacturers have wisely adopted both Apple (carplay) and Android (auto) on the same hardware! The high quality brands still do make head units with official CarPlay and theres always improvements and updates so it's getting better since the initial launch of CarPlay. Will be interesting to see how things move ahead over time, both with CarPlay and Android Auto.

Again, semantics. In my own experience, “Genuine” CarPlay exists on quite a few OE systems (as shown on the Apple page you linked above). In terms of functionality, those systems are identical to this dongle. From reading the Apple page, CarPlay as an operating system offers no advantages over CarPlay as an app, so at the end of the day - what’s the difference?
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Nice work ger, thanks for posting!

Re: the bootlogo. I created one from the newer BMW “Connected Drive” logo and it looks really sharp. The thing is, I never see it since the system basically never reboots! Just restart from sleep! Lol
 

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Looking to get started with install possibly next weekend. It's been a long wait for the parts and pieces.
* head unit w/ version 8 software
* new front 6.5" speakers (installed and working), just need to rewire from DSP amp to new amp for 1 channel operation from new amp instead of 3 from DSP amp. I'll just wire the rear mid-range up and leave the tweets out of it.
* new soundstream 5 channel amp (I just couldn't help myself). Tarantula Nano (something like 40 x 4, 270 x1) - thankfully the battery is in the trunk and it will make for a much easier installation than previous amp installs.
* back up camera integrated into trunk open button (should show up this week, has taken forever to get here)
* HD radio dongle
* 3d brackets
* GPS + radio cables (still waiting on one)
* resler
* 6x RCAs (fr/rear/sub + backup camera)
* OEM mic (already installed, just need to wire it, have a wire up into the headliner from some foresight when I was fixing the sunroof).

future
* The splitter antenna would seem to be a wise idea, as I can't get the HD radio to work on the bench w/ the stock antenna. Will see where I get with it. Dropping another $50-70 on something could probably wait.
* replace nokia subs with M-audio type install with some shallow mount 10" subs. See many other threads on this, looking at several options, but the RF prime subs seem to be perfectly adequate.
* carplay

Things that would be pretty clever
* automatic equalizer settings - using the HU mic or the OEM wired mic, is there an app that will do some sound sweep analysis to get a flat response?
* time alignment of the front speakers - discussed earlier, doesn't seem to be available.
* some smart cookie to work with the original board manufacturer to create a HU with a upgraded sound chips / sound stage. This seems good enough, especially since my stock HU has a non-working tape deck and a partially working CD changer.
 

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Ok, got the head unit installed over the weekend along with the external amp. Pretty much everything came out of the trunk, though I don't have a few things working, so potentially I over-removed.

Notes:
Cable "loom" up front was big for me. I got it in, but some of my lower dash is pushing out from where it normally should be. It was the fakra cable, 2 RCA cables (thicker wire), 3 GPS/antenna cables (GPS, antenna and dab+), and a 4 conductor wire for remote turn on, rear camera power, and 2 extras (at this time, we'll see if I need them).

Trunk is just a hot mess of wires. I need to get them cleaned up, but I'm not sure quite where to start. At least things are working. I cut and patched into the connector wires. I have all 3 channels for each side of the front paralleled together. They're going to new 2 way speakers with a built in crossover. If doing an external amp with stock speakers, you could get a 3 way crossover, install it in the trunk, and keep the stock speakers (similar to the GAS board, I think). All of the fronts and the rear tweeters are on one stock plug.

Rears, I just have the rear dash mids hooked up. The tweeters are far too distracting and they're right behind the driver's ears, and completely mess up the soundstage (IMHO). The rear mids are on a different plug (the big plug for the stock amp).

questions
- do I need to book up a remote on (amp / antenna on from the HU) to the stock diversity antenna?

Left to do
- get front speakers wired up correctly (hybrid audio 2 way setup with proper cross overs). No stock speakers remain.
- apple car play
- ibus installed / working
- install a better located usb port (currently one of the HU cables is dangling from just under the passenger center tunnel trim panel). I'd love to remove the cigarette lighter with a pop-up USB port. Otherwise, probably in one of the other two small compartments in the center console.

Small Troubles:
- I couldn't fit the fakra cable through the hole in the trunk (one of the plugs), so I cut the big one apart. I needed the round pin plug connector.
- Fix bulging dash (tps side of the under-steering is pushing out, the styrofoam is sitting on my cable bundle, so I need to do something about it). The trim piece doesn't sit right.
- the heads of the screws for the da ory plastic mounts are a bit big for the head unit. they will work, but I probably should have ground them down a bit. When it's the LAST thing you've got to do to be done, my patience wears thin.
- pulled out front seat to get the cables down under the carpet.
- I wish someone would make a BMW "generic" panel attachment kit... all of the 50 different screws, rivets and clips and such. I don't want 5 OEM ones for $10, I don't need 100 of one kind for $10, I need 10 of every single clip for $20. This would be a godsend.
- I had some tap connectors that didn't work worth a crap (tap the wire, then a removable spade plug on the new wire). Tried to tap into the speaker wires, and that somewhat worked, and my crimper didn't work well at all on the tabs. hopefully the ones for the resler stick worked.

Large Troubles
- DAB doesn't work. It scans for signals, and doesn't find anything. I used (I think) the OEM cell phone antenna (per xtrons de website). I *think* I have a good signal (There are 4-5 bars on the upper left of the DAB screen. USB issue? It didn't work on the bench with the xtrons antenna (at all), but I figured I didn't ground it to something (it has a copper sticker thing).
- AM radio isn't working at all. FM works perfectly.
- my alarm is now randomly going off. Totally (not) awesome. Any ideas on what's making this happen?
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Nice job!

I was under the impression DAB was for Europe only? Am I mistaken?

I think the early cars need a powered antenna booster for AM to work? I'll try mine today and let you know
 

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Discussion Starter #75
I have essentially no AM reception on mine either, although I’m fairly certain it was like that with my Dynavin also.

I had to Google local AM stations to even know where on the dial I should find a station. So, I guess that shows how often I listen to AM... lol

As far as the alarm, I have no idea. Try unplugging your hood switch. Seems unrelated to the sound system install, but maybe it’s coincidently starting acting up?
 

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I think i figured out the alarm. Wasn’t hood button, thought that’s now disconnected. I did the two button push and the alarm isn’t going off, which disarms the internal ultrasonic sensor. It apparent also disarms the tilt sensor that’s in the truck. Mine is is the jumble of cables in the trunk right now, still connected, but loose. Must not like the odd angle it’s seeing. I’m guessing that’s it. Part 6575-8-386 932 9.

Two down.
 

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Discussion Starter #77

I wish I could simply update my post above, but since that’s not possible on this forum, I’ll post an update here

I’d like to un-recommend this particular product and seller. While the CarPlay dongle does work for the most part, there are two annoying issues present:

- the app never remembers that you’ve granted it permission to access the USB port. So, every time you get in the car, you have to grant permission, which gets annoying quickly.

- the steering wheel track +\- controls only work sporadically, most of the time they do not work.

The seller had initially seemed confident they could resolve these issues, but after several weeks of back and forth, loading apks, and attempting to reflash firmware on the dongle, I’ve requested a refund. I will try the other style of interface called a “zbox”. Exact same concept but with better user reviews. We shall see...
 

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Darrell, extraordinary work, as always!

How's the sound? Have you done any speaker upgrades?
Man I really like the OBC function with temps and battery voltage displays. Did those pop up straightaway or as options? I wonder if you can get the rest of the 'secret menu' items to pull up?
 

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Discussion Starter #79 (Edited)
Thanks Kevin!

I'm no audiophile, but the sound is good to my ears. It's all stock M Audio speakers and DSP Amp, which is absolutely the limitation to my system at the moment. Like many things our beloved German friends design, the DSP system is overly complex and unique with no real benefit in the end. It's underpowered and the volume control is bizarre and still not completely worked out with the aftermarket. Replacing speakers and adding an aftermarket amp is clearly a better route to go, granted that's a more expensive and complex route to take.

The OBC screen is the standard screen for the iBus app. It's an Android app, but it does auto-start when the head unit resumes from sleep, so that's what I see after starting the car. The only one I've hidden is the oil temp, which doesn't work with the S62 for some unknown reason. The new version of the app was just released a few days ago...

 
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