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Well, we took the plunge. And documented some of it in the thread linked below.

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/599094-e39-m5-la-mu5-2.html#post7540508

The major issue we ran into was that the brackets that came with the head unit did not work. Should we go ahead and order the 3d printed ones? And what screws do those use?

Also, any advice for repairing or replacing an M Audio sub? One of ours has blown.
Yes, order the 3D printed ones. They work much better than the stock ones. If you really want to try and work with the original ones, take a look at my post HERE, about half way down, I've highlighted how I modified them... They worked okay but in the end, I bought the 3D printed ones.

Sorry, can't help with the M Audio sub.
 

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Ok, so just ordered the Xtron unit for my new 2000 M5, along with the main 6M cables, but in planning things out I do have a few questions for this experienced crowd:
1.) Does anyone know where in the heck the connector X2759 is located? The factory microphone goes through this and I'm guessing it's located somewhere in the cabin and would be a great place to tap into the factory mic as opposed to running yet ANOTHER 6M microphone cable all the way back to the trunk. But NewTIS doesn't seem to give me a location for this one. For reference: https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e39-m5-lim/components-connectors/components/x-plugs-terminals/x-1001-5000/x2759-adapter-616031/cddxSO5

2.) With the fancy new Resler decoder and iBus app, is it possible to then retain usage of the factory CD changer in the trunk? Not like this is hugely necessary for me, but would be interesting and something I might even make use of if possible rather than removing it.

3.) Any pictures of where/how best to route all the wires back to the trunk?

4.) Any recommendations for a good backup camera that's relatively easy to install and doesn't involve drilling holes in the trunk?

Thanks all!
1. I think they are referring to the connector that would be what plugged into the back of the Mic. If you pop off the panel that has the sunroof switch and mic. plate, there will be a 3 pin connector tucked and clipped away under the headliner, toward the drivers side. I used my phone camera for a makeshift periscope and was able to see it. Now the real question is how the heck you hook up a powered mic to a none powered jack without frying your radio. Please let me know if you get this figured out and get a factory mic. wired up, as I had no luck!

2. Yes, Since a couple updates ago, there is a CD changer control. Have a look at the I-Bus Wiki on how to set it all up HERE

3. No pictures I can help with here but it's not too bad to run the wires to the back. Just run them down the drivers side under the sills (give them a good tug straight up) and there is a nice little track with other wires running in it and an extra channel in it just waiting for the extension harness. Fits perfectly. I thought the worst of it all was taking the dash apart and getting the trunk linings out... But even that was not too bad.

4. Check out my post HERE on what I did for a backup camera.
 

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Whitewolf you're a saint replying to all these questions man, thanks to you and Rontgen for sticking around here. Your point about the RCA => 3.5 jack should have been obvious to me as well.

I've got one more question - I'm extremely interested in having an installer in my town running the 6m cables from my trunk to my dash, since I'm also installing new speakers etc. However it looks like getting the IBus App installed and activated requires that you have the head unit in, hooked up to Resler, and then you have to wait ~24 hours before you can recode the DSP to 'mid_basis'!

I guess my question is: after installing the HU, is it correct that no sound is going to come out at all until I recode the DSP? Or will it just sound "not ideal" so I can get this back from the Stereo place here and recode it at my leisure to get the full finished product?


Also for anyone looking for what seems to be an excellent How-To (a full PDF with pictures and instructions!) on the physical parts of the installation Prr posted some absolute fire HERE.
 

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Whitewolf you're a saint replying to all these questions man, thanks to you and Rontgen for sticking around here. Your point about the RCA => 3.5 jack should have been obvious to me as well.

I've got one more question - I'm extremely interested in having an installer in my town running the 6m cables from my trunk to my dash, since I'm also installing new speakers etc. However it looks like getting the IBus App installed and activated requires that you have the head unit in, hooked up to Resler, and then you have to wait ~24 hours before you can recode the DSP to 'mid_basis'!

I guess my question is: after installing the HU, is it correct that no sound is going to come out at all until I recode the DSP? Or will it just sound "not ideal" so I can get this back from the Stereo place here and recode it at my leisure to get the full finished product?


Also for anyone looking for what seems to be an excellent How-To (a full PDF with pictures and instructions!) on the physical parts of the installation Prr posted some absolute fire HERE.

Glad to help :grin
Without coding of the amp, I'm pretty sure it will just do the ol' turn the amp off after 2 min. 40 sec. bit.
But what I would do is just take everything (head unit, 6m extension cable, adapter cable and Resler) to the trunk and just hook everything up right there in the trunk and then setup the I-Bus app and then go ahead and code the amp there.

Or you could do what I did while waiting for everything to show up... Just install the I-Bus app on your Android phone or tablet (assuming you have one) and plug the Resler into an OTG adapter (full size USB port adapter for your Android) and wired it up to the I-Bus 3 Pin in the trunk. I do RC and servo connectors happen to be the correct pin size and spacing for the 3 pin I-Bus connector in the trunk. Then you could just install the I-Bus App and code the amp through your phone or tablet.
 

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The microphone cable should be run up one of the 2 A pillars from the head unit.


I've done it, but had issues getting things working properly. It's on the to-do list to fix, but frankly, the list is quite long. The mic in the head unit works well enough to have a conversation, so it's not pressing. It does take some wiring and work to make it all happen. You probably have to undo some of the headliner to get the wiring run.



I had to re-do the sunroof rails and had the entire headliner out for a while, so I just ran an ethernet cable up there so I'd have some extra wires if needed.


On the german forum / xtrons wiki, it has some wiring diagrams. They're in german.
 

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So, I can't seem to find the audio connector for the CD changer ANYWHERE. 3 pin power connector is there, but the 6 pin output connector is not and I couldn't find the loose connector dangling anywhere either. Could it possibly be that this little antennae or coax looking cable carries a digital audio output or something? Not a huge deal if I can't use the changer after all, but now I want to understand this mystery! Car is 2000 M5 if that's pertinent:
 

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So, I can't seem to find the audio connector for the CD changer ANYWHERE. 3 pin power connector is there, but the 6 pin output connector is not and I couldn't find the loose connector dangling anywhere either. Could it possibly be that this little antennae or coax looking cable carries a digital audio output or something? Not a huge deal if I can't use the changer after all, but now I want to understand this mystery! Car is 2000 M5 if that's pertinent:
Yeah, I wasn't sure how that was going to work with our DSP systems. I believe the coax is carrying the sound signal. Take a look at THIS POST, and it shows what looks to be a non DSP CD changer wiring without the coax connected. But both look to be the exact same, with the same ports. Yours just doesn't have anything connected to the port they are talking about (bottom empty larger 6 pin in your picture). So you will likely need to make or buy the connector that would tap onto those wires.
Here is the part number for what looks like the correct cable you will need: 61126913954
And heres a link to ECS with the cable in stock.
But I would verify that looks like the correct one!
I don't have a CD changer so I can't really verify the process. You might try and contact I-BUS App on facebook and see if they can verify my info.
 

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Discussion Starter #288
The CD changer audio output on the 2000-2001 cars is the coaxial connection. This is a direct connection from the Changer to the DSP amp. I haven’t tried the iBus app CD changer integration but I’m going to assume it uses iBus commands to change the active input of the DSP amp and then control the changer, meaning you should be able to connect the changer like it was from the factory and it should work?
 

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The CD changer audio output on the 2000-2001 cars is the coaxial connection. This is a direct connection from the Changer to the DSP amp. I haven’t tried the iBus app CD changer integration but I’m going to assume it uses iBus commands to change the active input of the DSP amp and then control the changer, meaning you should be able to connect the changer like it was from the factory and it should work?
Correct. You still leave the 3 pin (I-BUS, power and ground) connected and as of a couple updates ago, it can controlled through the I-BUS App. His problem is that having the digital DSP coax connection for sound and it carrying the audio signal for the amp, he doesn't have the connector in the trunk for the larger 6 pin connector that can output analog sound signal through this connector.
So hopefully he can just buy the connector I linked above if it's correct, then he will have to modify that connector to have RCA's on the other side, then the RCA's are plugged into the AUX input on the back of the Android head unit, and then the I-BUS app can control the changer through the 3 pin connector.
HERE is the Wiki for the CD changer.
 

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Discussion Starter #290
Ahh, I see. So no way to run it through the DSP amp as originally wired. Interesting.

My apologies for the mis info!
 

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This is an amazing thread, thank you for all the information. I was able to easily get all the parts needed and install my Xtron PB7839BP last night. Resler interface was easy to install and the ibus app is great and made installing in my DSP car a breeze!

I do have a question for anyone who is using a carplay dongle. I picked up one and had issues getting it to be recognized but found a setting in the CAR menu (similar to where you go to disable reverse screen) that needed to be turned on for carplay.

However carplay will stop the xtron radio from playing at the same time. So when i want to use Waze for GPS I no longer have sound outside of the carplay app (zbox I believe is what it is called) Does anyone know if this is a setting I need to adjust?

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #292
This is an amazing thread, thank you for all the information. I was able to easily get all the parts needed and install my Xtron PB7839BP last night. Resler interface was easy to install and the ibus app is great and made installing in my DSP car a breeze!

I do have a question for anyone who is using a carplay dongle. I picked up one and had issues getting it to be recognized but found a setting in the CAR menu (similar to where you go to disable reverse screen) that needed to be turned on for carplay.

However carplay will stop the xtron radio from playing at the same time. So when i want to use Waze for GPS I no longer have sound outside of the carplay app (zbox I believe is what it is called) Does anyone know if this is a setting I need to adjust?

Thank you
If you set Waze you be your primary navigation app, the audio will play over top of all other sources

Or, you could use Waze on your phone and it will appear within the CarPlay app?
 

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Ok, so I seem to have just about everything working (except the radio since I'm still waiting on the antennae extension), but I do have one small issue: is there any way to have the ibus app automatically start up when the unit is powered on? As it sits I need to manually click on the app or widget in order to open up the ibus app and get the DSP/any sound. Thanks again for all the help here guys!
 

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Ok, so I seem to have just about everything working (except the radio since I'm still waiting on the antennae extension), but I do have one small issue: is there any way to have the ibus app automatically start up when the unit is powered on? As it sits I need to manually click on the app or widget in order to open up the ibus app and get the DSP/any sound. Thanks again for all the help here guys!
Do you use Auto sleep or have the unit shutdown? In the I-BUS app settings under General app settings, make sure you have Automatic start at reboot selected and 0 ms App start delay. Otherwise the app should autostart, after wakeup from sleep, upon detection of a USB connected. I've had problems in the past with certain USB devices interfering with this. In my case it was a USB dongle for a wireless keyboard. Remove all other USB devices except the Resler and try it. If it's still not wanting to autostart, try putting the Resler in other ports. You will know if you have USB connection problems if you go to the General settings and the "USB Connection" option is not enabled. The option should auto enable itself when the Resler is plugged in.

At first I was using the shorter green USB port but seemed to keep having problems with it in that port and seemed to have a loose connection when the Resler was just slightly wiggled. I've been using it in the yellow USB port without any problems and I put some heat shrink around the port and Resler to secure them together and not allow them to wiggle at the connections. Also be VERY careful of the USB harness connectors going into the back of the unit as the are rather fragile and you can easily sever one or more of the wires from moving the USB's harness around too much. Since I often remove the unit and bring it inside and put it on the bench to tweak and tune on it (and because I didn't want to repair the wires again), I added some heat shrink to the back of the connectors and added a few zip ties from the case of the unit, out to the wire harness's to stop them from moving around at the back of the connectors at the head unit:
 

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Hmm, thanks, but still no dice. Unit is set to autosleep, and I've made sure the ibus app is whitelisted everywhere in the application settings, and app itself is set to automatic restart and 0ms. Don't have any other USBs plugged in other than the phone charger cable (but not the phone itself), and I think I do have the Resler in the yellow on, but I'll switch it around some just in case. Seems to work just fine, comes to life right away as soon as I tap on the app or widget, and even closes down OK because the mirrors fold in when I turn the key off, just won't come back up again on its own!
 

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Glad to help :grin
Without coding of the amp, I'm pretty sure it will just do the ol' turn the amp off after 2 min. 40 sec. bit.
But what I would do is just take everything (head unit, 6m extension cable, adapter cable and Resler) to the trunk and just hook everything up right there in the trunk and then setup the I-Bus app and then go ahead and code the amp there.
Just finished this project and wanted to say huge shout out for this advice - for those of us with Trunk hardware, you have to spend an extra $75 on cables and huge amount of labor to install the damn thing but this was an excellent way to test the whole system, activate IBus-App, and recode the DSP.

Another thing I wanted to mention is that I am required to solder wires probably once every 3 years for a project. I don't like soldering and am already full to the brim with hobby hardware and tools. For home wiring I use push-pin connectors. The wires on the resler interface have incredibly fine wiring and are difficult to strip and impossible to use with push-pins. I cannot reccomend the use of Wago connectors more highly. Faster than soldering, more secure, and non-destructive. There's already rumblings of a whole new e39 XTrons unit on the Facebook Group coming out in just a couple weeks with more cores and perhaps 8gb of RAM, though the current one appears to be exceedingly fast.

Finally I'll mention that "Da Ondy" - the manufacturer of 3D-printed brackets for the head unit - appears to have decided to suspend delivery to the US as the new year brought prohibitive shipping rates. He mentioned it in a thread on the Facebook page but it may be worth double checking.

The stereo shop I brought my car to somehow got the HU to be flush in my dash, despite me not bringing the brackets (After 2 months of prep I BLEW it in the homestretch) so I'll offer them at cost to anyone looking for them here in the US.

In other news I'm selling a factory nav system and Soundplicity II in perfect condition :grin.
 

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Hmm, thanks, but still no dice. Unit is set to autosleep, and I've made sure the ibus app is whitelisted everywhere in the application settings, and app itself is set to automatic restart and 0ms. Don't have any other USBs plugged in other than the phone charger cable (but not the phone itself), and I think I do have the Resler in the yellow on, but I'll switch it around some just in case. Seems to work just fine, comes to life right away as soon as I tap on the app or widget, and even closes down OK because the mirrors fold in when I turn the key off, just won't come back up again on its own!
In the I-BUS options under General, is your "USB Connection" option turned on? It should turn itself on when it sees the USB. Do you see the toast pop up that says "USB Ready" when your unit wakes up and the I-BUS app is started? If not, did you make sure to select the "always use this device" tic box that you get from the I-BUS app when you first plug in the Resler? If not, connect the Resler to another USB port and the message should pop up again, and be sure to tic the "always use this device" option too.
 

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Discussion Starter #299
That sucks about the 3D-printed brackets! Those things are great!

Just wanted to share that Xtrons has released a new button-less (is that word?) version of the PX5-based Android 8 unit. Same internal specs for the most part, but with a 10.25" screen that resembles a newer NBT-based unit

10.25'' Android 8.0 Multimedia Receiver GPS Navigation System | Xtrons

 

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Anything wrong with using the GPS FARKA extension cable for the radio antenna? My radio extension seems to be MIA and I'm getting antsy to get things buttoned back up, plus I can just use the included Xtrons antenna for the GPS anyway; should this work OK or will there be weird unforseen consequences?
 
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