BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

Window Regulator Operation [SOLVED]

442 views 21 replies 6 participants last post by  Sailor24  
#1 ·
I have an e39 528i that has a window regulator problem. I believe the regulators are the same, across all e39 models.

I have corrected the original problem of the window not raising or lowering. The wire had slipped off the pulley at the bottom and its attachment at the top was kinked.

Upon reinstsllation. I noticed that the motor seems to continue running after the window has reached the extreme of its travel. This isn't a problem when opening as there is a rubber bumper to absorb the shock. When closing however, the aluminum clamp that holds the sleeve in which the wire travels gets bent by excessive pressure. I thought the glass reaching the top signaled the motor to stop running as resistance increased so I installed everything completely before operating the window by activating the auto-close feature.

My question is; What signals the motor to stop turning after the glass is fully up or fully down?

When observing the mechanism with the door card off, its obvious this signal isn't being received by the motor. The damping spring when the glass is fully closed is completely collapsed and the run of wire that will pull the glass down has slop. This slop, I believe, is what allowed the wire to jump off the pulley.

Right now. I'm thinking I need a new motor to correct the problem. That is, the existing motor is not responding to an increase in effort that should signal it to shut off.
 
#3 · (Edited)
I checked the pinch protection by holding a rolled up towel at the top of the window. It did function normally. This feature is controlled by a contact inside the top trim piece.

There must be some way for the motor to get a signal to turn off. Otherwise, it would continue to run always. Since I don't see any switch at the extreme limit of both ends, I assume the motor senses that it has reached its limit by the amount of resistance it encounters.

The only other limiting means I can think of is that its designed to turn a set number of times. Adjusting this would mean there must be a way to time it. I may take it apart again but I'm fairly confident any timing involves the placement of the carrier (to which the glass is attached) in a different position. I believe there is only one way to assemble the unit and mine does work.

The unit I have was subbed after 1999, possibly to address this issue. The design is much simpler but the mounting is different as well. I may look at the one installed in my 2002 M5 to see if it can be adapted.

I've found an el cheapo on eBay for $55.00.
 
#6 ·
The stupid forum won't take pictures again today(LOL magically they're here) ... DIRECTLY FROM WDS

for E39 12/95 -09/98

End-position cut-out
In automatic mode, the drive is switched off by way of current measurement. On reaching the end position, the drive is blocked temporarily thus resulting in an increase in the power intake. This increase in power intake is detected in the door module (front windows) or in the rear module (rear windows) and the drive is switched off.

For E39 from 09/98

End-position cut-out
In automatic mode, the drive is switched off by way of current measurement. On reaching the end position, the drive is blocked temporarily thus resulting in an increase in the power intake. This increase in power intake is detected in the door module (front windows) or in the rear module (rear windows) and the drive is switched off.



They are the same for end position detection. I can upload screen shots when they work of the wiring.
 

Attachments

#13 ·
#14 ·
Yeah, I know what that's about. The clamp that holds the cable to the wire comes loose (breaks) and the wire still moves but it's disconnected so the window stays stationary. I have fixed the problem by bending the clamp back on and using JB Weld to make sure it stays put. Whe I replace the motor on this one, I'm going to use JB Weld as a prophylactic since I have done this so many times.

I was on a trip once and BOTH regulators went out in the rear about 5 minutes apart.

This aparent motor problem is the first time I have seen this failure mode.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I'll get the regulator motor installed tomorrow. The Right Rear door switch seems to be working as designed. Light press opens and closes, stopping when the switch is released but continuing to full opening or closing when pressed beyond the detent.

I may try replacing the switch first based on your response.
 
#18 ·
I didn't have a motor problem. The switch was fine. The cheesy method used by the manufacturer wasn't strong enough to bear the strain of operation.

The problem:

Image


The carriage is almost to the top in the above pic. The carriage has a rubber bumper fitted into the bottom that bears against the aluminum mounting when the carriage is fully down. Why this wasn't done for the top as well is beyond me. If the aluminum mounting that's behind the black guide had been bent forward at a right angle, a bumper (exactly like the one at the bottom) could be inserted into the square hole that exists in this poorly engineered model, and there would never be any problem from this cause!

Closeup:
Image

Problem viewed from the Back:

Image

Should look like this:
Image

The pic immediately shows where the main stress of the fully open window should impinge. The aluminum clamp isn't up to the task of keeping the collar abutted to the backing plate.
The Repair:
Image

Common failure point:
Image

Reinforced:
Image

This regulator had a better design than I've seen in some others. They are naked clamps without any kind of surround. I filled this one with JB-Weld© anyway.
 

Attachments

#22 ·
Your job looked brilliant. I do the same thing to brand new ones when I could not save the original. The only one I had fail was that one glob one but had to do something, ordered the part and made the window close. Owner was not suppose to open the window but rolled up to Tim Hortons drive thru and forgot.