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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The dreaded CPS code suddenly came. There was no SES light.
When I was going to accelerate the car hit a wall at around 3000 rpm, I pressed the accelerator pedal deeper and still nothing. The rpm seems stuck around 3000 rpm.

There were no other driveability issue, idle also smooth and stable.

So I pulled the code use peake reader:
<table width="675" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><colgroup><col style="mso-width-source:userset;mso-width-alt:24685;width:506pt" width="675"> </colgroup><tbody><tr style="mso-height-source:userset;height:13.5pt" height="18"> <td class="xl66" style="height:13.5pt;width:506pt" width="675" height="18">08 - Intake Camshaft Pos Sensor #5-8</td> </tr> <tr style="mso-height-source:userset;height:13.5pt" height="18"> <td class="xl67" style="height:13.5pt" height="18">AA - secondary Air System, Flow to Low</td> </tr> </tbody></table>

So I reset again and went for a test drive, same thing again . seems stuck at 3000 rpm intermittently with no other driveability issue.
<table width="675" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr style="mso-height-source:userset;height:13.5pt" height="18"><td class="xl66" style="height:13.5pt;width:506pt" width="675" height="18">08 - Intake Camshaft Pos Sensor #5-8</td></tr><tr style="mso-height-source:userset;height:13.5pt" height="18"><td class="xl67" style="height:13.5pt" height="18">71 -Intake Camshaft VANOS position control #5-8
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And I know its time to replace the CPS Intake for bank 2 (#5-8)
I've studied as much as I can before start taking anything apart.
There are currently 2 DIY I found useful:


For your reference for US car, here is the order of difficulties in changing CPS:

1. Bank 2 (cyl #5-8) intake CPS - water valve hoses in the way + metal bracket - I did it from the top
2. Bank 1 (cyl #1-4) intake CPS - metal bracket in the way - I did it from the top
3. Bank 2 (cyl #5-8) exhaust CPS - water vale hoses in the way - I did it from the bottom
4. Bank 1 (cyl #1-4) exhaust CPS - nothing in the way -I did it from the top

And here is the picture (not my car) the back of an S62 which shows the location of the CPS(s)
intake CPS are circled in red
exhaust CPS are circled in yellow



I 've used the information from the 2 DIY mentioned above.

The only different, I decided to take the intake plenum off, to give me extra visibility.
I started with replacing Intake CPS on bank 2 (cyl #5-8) and end up replacing Intake CPS on bank 1, Exhaust CPS on bank 1, and also doing spark plugs while I have everything off. ( I do not want to take all of these parts apart again for another CPS :wink)

Note: to echo DavidS's advise, study the location well as at times you'd have to feel the location without seeing it. Also be patient, and if you're stuck go away cool off and come back. On bank 2 intake CPS replacement when you put everything back its a bit tricky to position the black metal bracket between engine block and the the fuel line bracket. once you position it in between the next challenge is to line up all the holes. I found it easier to mount the bracket into the wiring harness (this take 99% of the effort on aligned all 3 holes: engine block, black bracket and fuel line bracket).


1. Started of with removing intake plenum


2. Then continue with removing the rest, and now we have the plenum off


3. As said before, use mirror. This will help a lot. Also study the orientation of the bolt (2 10mm bolts) the wiring harness black bracket and the fuel line bracket. (the black wiring harness bracket is positioned/sandwiched between the engine block and the fuel supply bracket).


4. Here is the back view of the engine block where the intake CPS is located.


Here is the detail of where is what. And to give more room to manuver my hand I disconnected one of the coolant hose (the one on the left of the 3 in this picture below)


5. With the amount of time involved, I would recommend to always use BMW genuine part. I'd hate to have to do this again just because I was trying to save a few buck. I also purchase new bolt as well. And as you can see it already has anti-seize applied on the thread.


6. I had the throttle body flange gasket (as you can see on some of the pic) off as well because I also loosen the fuel injector rail so I can lift it along with the wiring harness to give me more clearance to work with accessing the black bracket bolt.

7. After doing bank 2 intake CPS, doing bank 1 intake CPS is easier in comparison. There is still black metal bracket to support the wiring harness (just like bank 2). The bracket on this side is mounted directly on the engine so it is no sandwiched, and plenty of room to access the 2 10mm bolts securing it as well.

8. After both intake CPS intake replaced, I Was contemplating but finally decided to replace the exhaust CPS on bank 1 (since it still have the original sensor. The car has 85K now). As you can see this is the easiest as you just undo the hex bolt and take out the old sensor. The easiest by far.

This picture show how accessible exhaust CPS bank 1 from the top (I started to undo the hex bolt then took the picture).




Hope this additional information helps :nerd



Regardz,

J Irwan

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<table width="675" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody><tr style="mso-height-source:userset;height:13.5pt" height="18"><td class="xl66" style="height:13.5pt;width:506pt" width="675" height="18">
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Perfect timing , I am replacing both of mine on the 00 I purchased a few weeks back. Thank you for the additional photos, looks straight forward.


I have considered lowering the k-member or removing the engine mounts so I could gain some clearance. Did you consider this at all?
 
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