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Discussion Starter #1
I was going to change the wheels today and found out that the wheels were stuck on the hub (like glued)

I could not remove them no matter how hard I pulled them, pushed them each side, kicked really hard.

Any ideas how to prevent this gluing in the future?
 

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Common hub-centric wheel problem. You just have to knock them off, try a dead blow hammer or some good kicks with your heal while facing away from the car. Using antiseize on the hubs can slow down the corrosion that causes this, but it will happen eventually. The best way to prevent it is to remove the wheels regularly.
 

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Dead-blow hammer will work. The farther away from the center of the wheel you hit, the more you'll convince the wheel to come away from the hub.

Personally I was never really comfortable with using any hammer on wheels as you can still mar the finish once you get the Hulk rage going.

My method: make sure car is secure on jackstands, remove all wheel bolts, put on heavy boots, and using the bottom of your boot kick down at a 45 degree angle at the shoulder of the tire. You're gonna need to get mad. Cover rim/tire with rag where you're kicking.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh, I was kicking alright (wearing my bmw motorcycle boots)...

usually I change the wheels twice a year (summer/winter tyres), but this year was late on taking the winter wheels off, so the results was mentioned above.

the tyre place I went to ask for help, was hitting the wheel with a wooden 1,5x6 - I did not like it at all, hoping there is a more BMW-ish solution to that.
 

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there's nothing wrong with wood. It won't hurt the finish. I prefer to place the end of a 2x4 half on the sidewall of the tire, half on the rim. Then use a 5lb sledge or hammer of your choice on the other end of the wood.

I have also found that it helps to rotate the wheel and hit at multiple points around the rim (3, 6, 9, 12). Also try hitting it from the backside if you have the room (the way the wheel naturally wants to come off).
 

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If you don't want to hit, take all wheel bolts off and lower the car slowly, might be enough to pop it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
there's nothing wrong with wood. It won't hurt the finish. I prefer to place the end of a 2x4 half on the sidewall of the tire, half on the rim. Then use a 5lb sledge or hammer of your choice on the other end of the wood.

I have also found that it helps to rotate the wheel and hit at multiple points around the rim (3, 6, 9, 12). Also try hitting it from the backside if you have the room (the way the wheel naturally wants to come off).
that is how they hit it - from inside!

they lift the car, stick the wooden board under the car and were hitting from inside of car!
 

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Remove all the lug bolts and then start doing burnout doughnuts. They'll come off. :haha:

Seriously though, if all else fails for the fronts I would jack up one corner leaving the tire slightly in contact with the ground and then slowly turn the steering wheel left and right to work it off. The weight of the car will be supported and the slight load from the suspension should provide enough resistance to break the bond.
 
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Remove the centre cap and liberally apply penetrating oil to the wheel/hub interface.
 

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there's nothing wrong with wood. It won't hurt the finish. I prefer to place the end of a 2x4 half on the sidewall of the tire, half on the rim. Then use a 5lb sledge or hammer of your choice on the other end of the wood.

I have also found that it helps to rotate the wheel and hit at multiple points around the rim (3, 6, 9, 12). Also try hitting it from the backside if you have the room (the way the wheel naturally wants to come off).
What he said. Heat helps sometimes. If you have a torch, you can heat up where the hub and wheel meet. Be careful not to heat the paint too much.
 

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A blow torch to provide heat to the wheel, really? Sounds a bit extreme. I like the loosening of the wheel lugs a half turn then either lowering the car on the jack or rolling it back and forth if you must, however, some wheel rotating whilst kicking the tyre itself should see you right, again with lugs undone a few turns so the wheel doesn't pop right off and ruin your finish!!!
 

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Lol this happens to me all the time at work, probably 3 of every 5 cars I take the wheels off of... usually a few nice kicks will knock it off, helps to have it up on a lift though. Once you get it off clean off all of the corrosion and put a little anti-seize on so next time you'll be good to go :thumbsup:
 

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Dead-blow hammer will work. The farther away from the center of the wheel you hit, the more you'll convince the wheel to come away from the hub.

Personally I was never really comfortable with using any hammer on wheels as you can still mar the finish once you get the Hulk rage going.

My method: make sure car is secure on jackstands, remove all wheel bolts, put on heavy boots, and using the bottom of your boot kick down at a 45 degree angle at the shoulder of the tire. You're gonna need to get mad. Cover rim/tire with rag where you're kicking.
Don't hit the wheel, hit the tire ;)
 

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PB Blaster?
 

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Long 2x4. I've been doing this to German cars since e12's were new... Getting old. Never use penetrating oil near brake rotors. It's a pain. Going forward, I clean with a brake brush - wurth makes mine - a old steel BBQ brush will work too. The use a sparing amt of anti seize paste right on the lip. - again, sparingly due to brake surfaces..... I use the ceramic anti seize from Girots.


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