BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So when I bought my car the seller said that their was an alignment and wheel balance issue. I took the car to have the wheels balanced and the car aligned as there was wheel and shift knob shake between 45-55. The first shop said one front wheel was bent and that the tire exhibited radial pull. Second shop said both front wheels were bent but did turn wheel inside out to remove radial pull. Took to wheel specialist to have wheels unbent and refinished (came out great).

Since I had some other maintenance needed (fuel tank valve, o2 sensors and belts) I had them look at the shake. They said it was the thrust arm bushings and they replaced. Shaking is less, but still shows up between 50 and 55.

Car had the following service in 2018, less than 5000 miles ago:

replace drive shaft and flex disk; front and rear differential support mounts; transmission gear rod joint; replace transmission mount; and replace rear struts

Any ideas would help.
 

·
Registered
2003 E39 M5
Joined
·
17 Posts
I would plan on replacing all suspension bushings front and rear if they have not been done yet, it is well worth it. The shimmy/shake that you are experiencing is what happens when the rubber bushings are very worn out. They can be done piece by piece, but it is not worth the additional labor cost in my opinion. If your budget allows, I would go for the steering center link, tie rods, and front struts at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,024 Posts
I mean, I would too but it's not my money either... at least the traction strut bushings are a known issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,024 Posts
I would plan on replacing all suspension bushings front and rear if they have not been done yet, it is well worth it. The shimmy/shake that you are experiencing is what happens when the rubber bushings are very worn out. They can be done piece by piece, but it is not worth the additional labor cost in my opinion. If your budget allows, I would go for the steering center link, tie rods, and front struts at the same time.
Nice corkscrew pic, btw. Track the M5?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the feedback. I assume the two shop involved checked these bushings, but I will ask. Frustrating as I have not been able to enjoy the M5 yet. The shop that just did the thrust arm bushings suggested warp rotors as a possible cause.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,984 Posts
Thanks for the feedback. I assume the two shop involved checked these bushings, but I will ask. Frustrating as I have not been able to enjoy the M5 yet. The shop that just did the thrust arm bushings suggested warp rotors as a possible cause.
Generally, warped rotors will only show up under braking. If you have shift knob shake but don't feel it in your seat, it is NOT rear wheel imbalance.

There are bushings for the shifter, not sure what was checked or replaced. Stock shifter? Knob on tight (press fit)? You can lift the boot up and over the knob without removing it to see the actual shift lever.

Regards,
Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its both wheel and shifter shake only, no car or seat shake. What's weird is I went for a long drive and it got better (was trying to film shake and really couldn't became to subtle.) If it is rotors, could driving and braking act to reduce the issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
249 Posts
get monoballs, imo you can never rule out the front arms causing issue unless you have monoballs. they improve the steering and braking feels so much, replace the shifter bushing and grab an e60 shifter before it doubles in price.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Since I live in South Florida not sure monoballs for street driving are worth the possible NVH. I will look into the e60 shifter, would like that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So I had another shop look at the car and they believe its the front wheels. The rimfx guys who straightened them said they were very bent. All other suspension components and brakes were checked and showed no signs of obvious failure and laser alignment was perfect. I no a shop that has a spare set of fronts will give that a try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,984 Posts
Its both wheel and shifter shake only, no car or seat shake. What's weird is I went for a long drive and it got better (was trying to film shake and really couldn't became to subtle.) If it is rotors, could driving and braking act to reduce the issue?
If you had race pads, driving at street temps would clean/true the rotors. If using the brakes hard is helping, then maybe you just have pad deposits from prior owner built up. But warped rotors shouldn't be felt when the brakes aren't applied. If you think a caliper is dragging, check for heat right after you stop the car. Should be about the same across both fronts.

And I am not sure how a sticking caliper would cause the shift knob to shake.

Not sure which thrust bushings you used. I have used the X5 bushings and have been very happy. The do have to be installed with the keyway 180 degrees opposite of stock (see very old thread: Crevier sucks for long explanation). Pretty sure they have to be tightened with the car on the ground, but your mechanic should know that.

Regards,
Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I agree on the warped rotors thought, wasn't my idea...as for bushings I assume they used oem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So my shop pulled off old wheel weights and cleaned up wheel and rebalanced the shake is gone and it drives straight as well. I think the shop that straightened the wheel did not balance the wheel afterwards. My only gripe now is that the wheel seems to be slightly askew, maybe 1 degree to the right. Not sure removing and slipping one notch would work (may be too much). I hate being ocd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,984 Posts
So my shop pulled off old wheel weights and cleaned up wheel and rebalanced the shake is gone and it drives straight as well. I think the shop that straightened the wheel did not balance the wheel afterwards. My only gripe now is that the wheel seems to be slightly askew, maybe 1 degree to the right. Not sure removing and slipping one notch would work (may be too much). I hate being ocd.
Do you mean steering wheel? If so, probably can be adjusted by carefully adjusting the tie rods. it will not change toe out but will help center the wheel if done correctly. You can probably do it yourself. (although I am not sure I would bother for 1 degree).

Turn one tie rod about 1/4 turn and turn the opposite side 1/4 to offset the first one ( effectively in and out). You are compensating so the total toe in does not change, but is allocated differently between the 2 tie rods. That will change the relative position of the steering wheel. Adjust until you get the steering wheel to your liking. Should not be all that much adjustment.

Any alignment shop can do it also.

Regards,
Jerry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes the steering wheel. I will wait for the next time she is in the shop (short shifter) to get that done...
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top