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Discussion Starter #1
I recently replaced the fuel pump (died at 120K miles). Usual symptoms: stutter, no power at low rpm and then wouldn't start.

Bought a new oem fuel pump and the gasket for the tank. Armed with the great DIY threads available I replaced my pump. You definitely want to do this job with the tank 1/2 full or less as it's helpful to be able to see the bottom of the tank.

Anyway, got the old one replaced but I was unsure where the transfer pump connector went as I wasn't paying attention when it popped out (my tank was above full). I didn't find any help online trying to learn where it connected...

The symptoms of the transfer pump not being correctly installed on the passenger side is that the left tank doesn't empty (diag #6). If you aren't using your diagnostics you run out of gas at about 1/4 tank...

Courtesy of the Clemster I finally got to look at an empty gas tank and spare transfer pump/fuel pump.

I quickly realized my error. 1) the transfer pump should be installed first, and then the fuel pump. The fuel pump has a small 1/4" dia tube with o-ring that snaps into the bottom of the tank. It's at the rear of the tank if you are unsure how to align the pump as you are shoving it into the dark morass that is your tank. Be careful removing your pump and be sure to pay attention (this was my error, overwhelmed by fumes as I was).

The transfer pump connects to a similar 1/4" hole which is to the rear of the hole/socket that the fuel pump 1/4" tube connects to. That is there are two sockets on the bottom of the tank, the front is for the pump, the rear is for the transfer pump.

Once I went in and attached my transfer pump correctly my diag 6 showed the left tank being drained properly. Major success! Again, it was much simpler/easier with the tank mostly drained of gas.
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