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Discussion Starter #1
So there is an event on the 26th where we will run three pulls on a mustang dyno. What is normal whp for a stock car? And what can I expect with mine? Catless headers, secondary cat delete, muffler delete, BMC air filters, evolve tune.

I have also been hearing that mustang dyno shows really low numbers... Is this the most accurate dyno, or should I find another one?
 

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So there is an event on the 26th where we will run three pulls on a mustang dyno. What is normal whp for a stock car? And what can I expect with mine? Catless headers, secondary cat delete, muffler delete, BMC air filters, evolve tune.

I have also been hearing that mustang dyno shows really low numbers... Is this the most accurate dyno, or should I find another one?
Every car is different and different factors affect the numbers you will see (octane, temp, humidity, wheels, tires, %age of drivetrain loss, etc). There are correction factors that try to standardize and make up for these different variables.

A MAHA will be the most accurate, but those are hard to find.

Sorry, not the answer you were looking for. I never dyno'ed my car stock so I don't know what the ideal number is. But if you use 18% drivetrain loss, from 507bhp, ideally, around 416whp.
 

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Expect close to 400 hp stock. Mustang and MAHA dynos will give you more accurate numbers to what the car is actually putting out. If you just want a "feel warm and fuzzy inside" number, use a dynojet and ask for an STD correction factor. You will immediately see a bump of about 15% higher.
 

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Expect close to 400 hp stock. Mustang and MAHA dynos will give you more accurate numbers to what the car is actually putting out. If you just want a "feel warm and fuzzy inside" number, use a dynojet and ask for an STD correction factor. You will immediately see a bump of about 15% higher.
But then that's just lying to yourself :tonquesmilie:

But yes, you could fudge the numbers that way to get a warm fuzzy feeling inside lol.
 

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A true mustang dyno(at least the the one my shop uses) has a 26% drive train loss. Take your whp# and divide it by .74 and that will be your accurate crank HP.
 
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I recently was dyno'd on a Dynojet in Chicago. He does a lot of runs for guys that race so he is set to their smoothing specifications (SAE 4 I believe). Much of that is foreign language to me. But I put down 435. Basically stock as I had only added RPi scoops, block off plates, better filters, and stripped out the charcoal. None of which I expected to see HP gains on.

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So there is an event on the 26th where we will run three pulls on a mustang dyno. What is normal whp for a stock car? And what can I expect with mine? Catless headers, secondary cat delete, muffler delete, BMC air filters, evolve tune.

I have also been hearing that mustang dyno shows really low numbers... Is this the most accurate dyno, or should I find another one?
Expect close to 400 hp stock. Mustang and MAHA dynos will give you more accurate numbers to what the car is actually putting out. If you just want a "feel warm and fuzzy inside" number, use a dynojet and ask for an STD correction factor. You will immediately see a bump of about 15% higher.
The reality is that it does not matter which manufacture of dyno' you use if you have never measured the powertrain's output. But if you are using the dyno' as a tool, you should endeavor to use the same type and smoothing, under similar conditions and in the same gear. This will make your delta calculations more accurate.

The SAE smoothing is the level of data averaging used to generate the curve, so smoothing "0" which, has no averaging will be a peakier (high and low peaks are maintained in the curve and power calculations) and "5" is the highest level of averaging (loosing all of the high and low peaks). This is all data manipulation, but the variances should not be too dramatic (in the neighborhood of 1-3%).

The Mustang Dyno's are commonly referred to as "Heartbreakers" for a reason, but I have not seen anything (calibration certifications, gage R & R, etc.) to support them being more accurate than anyone else's.

This thread might give you some insight, but it is for the e39 so bear that in mind.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/208716-dyno-thread.html
 

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I would guess around 410 on a mustang dyno but in the end this should be used as your baseline and then just try and use the same dyno if you want to see an increase after adding mods.

Really can't compare your numbers to any other type of dyno or even the same dyno from a different shop.
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks for your replies guys! I really like that equation where you divide it by .74 and you get your crank power. By everything I'm hearing seems like that is fairly accurate! I should have tested to see what I was stock I guess but it is what it is... I'll update this on the 26th after dyno and share the news...

As a side note, just installed the evolve tune stage 3 last night, and it is unreal! Revs up like crazy! Love it!
 

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Thanks for your replies guys! I really like that equation where you divide it by .74 and you get your crank power. By everything I'm hearing seems like that is fairly accurate! I should have tested to see what I was stock I guess but it is what it is... I'll update this on the 26th after dyno and share the news...

As a side note, just installed the evolve tune stage 3 last night, and it is unreal! Revs up like crazy! Love it!
Keep in mind my shops dyno reads very very low. I think most mustang dyno's will not be a 26% loss like my shops. More like a 20-24% My shop also dyno's the car on all 4 wheels which I have never seen before. Usually its just the rear 2.
 

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Keep in mind my shops dyno reads very very low. I think most mustang dyno's will not be a 26% loss like my shops. More like a 20-24% My shop also dyno's the car on all 4 wheels which I have never seen before. Usually its just the rear 2.

If I remember correctly the owner of the shop I used said guys had complained his dyno read low and he told them to go elsewhere to compare to show they're all within a margin of error. Ironic too his was a 4 wheel Dynojet which was mentioned above to be high. :) furthers the point that you just need to pick a shop and be consistent with them.
 

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For a mustang dyno that is about right.
 

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seems about right to me...i put down 388 with exhaust, charcoal removed and then made it up to 399 with my first tune. They're called heartbreakers for a reason
 

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Mustang Dyno's are like giving your dick measurement in yards. Is going to be a very low #.
 

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Dyno #s are just good reference points to see if your mods do anything. I personally never cared what my car would dyno at, a number on paper is not going to bring me satisfaction, the ride and experience are what matters. All the cool rides you may have had when you were a kid............ do you remember the dyno #s, or the exhilarating ride? :M5launch:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My original thinking was to do a dyno and see what my car compares to other m5's. And in result let me know in what shape my engine is.. didn't realise that dyno numbers can be so different-inaccurate.. oh well, I'll probably do dynojet also just for the hell of it..

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My original thinking was to do a dyno and see what my car compares to other m5's. And in result let me know in what shape my engine is.. didn't realise that dyno numbers can be so different-inaccurate.. oh well, I'll probably do dynojet also just for the hell of it..

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I would not say dynos are inaccurate as all are setup and read differently. I have never used a dyno sheet to go around and tell people what I have unless I used the same dyno as my baseline. That way you can tell people what I actually picked up with a certain mod added.
 
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