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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a '91 M5, and it currently has blown Bilstein sports on it. I've heard that the ride with those is kinda jarring, so I want to go with the Koni's. Dinan sells them, but wants like $80 more per shock than TireRack. This is what I need for the fronts, according to the Dinan website: 8641-1224SPORT. The only problem is I don't know what part number I need for the rears. Do any of you guys know?
I'm not totally opposed to the billies, but I don't want jarring. I want smooth an sporty. I don't want it to feel like a track car, just to handle like one:buttrock
Thanks for the expertise!
 

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Get a set of Koni for E34 520i-540i both same. 800 $

Get a set of H&R springs (got mine from turnermotorsport) 203 $

Get a set of front struts of 520i. I got them used, second hand. 200 $

Steering pump of 520i, 100 $. As you eliminate EDC, safest way is to get 520 steering pump.

Shock mounts OEM BMW <TABLE style="WIDTH: 119pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=158 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 119pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 5632" width=158><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.2pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #f0f0f0; BORDER-LEFT: #f0f0f0; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 119pt; HEIGHT: 13.2pt; BORDER-TOP: #f0f0f0; BORDER-RIGHT: #f0f0f0" class=xl24 height=18 width=158>P/N 31 33 1 134 096</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

These shock mounts were for 130 $

Add to these LABOR.

All prices back in 2008/11

M5 feels good, handles well. Hard, but not disturbing.

Most essential point: CAN NOT compare this combination to a OEM EDC. As my EDC was out of order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So do I need new front shock mounts? I thought I just needed to get the shocks, and that they inserted into the fronts... I haven't worked on these yet, forgive my ignorance. I already have the Dinan stuff on the car, it had their lowering springs and shocks installed in 94. I assume that its just eibachs and bilsteins. It's about a 1&1/2 inch drop.
 

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Yes, that car has a Dinan setup. You bought it from Phil..right?

You could contact bilstein and see if they will rebuild them. A lot cheaper then new billy's or Koni's and should give you a good ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yep that's me! Cheaper to rebuild than to replace? Turner sells all 4 shocks for $479, I can't imagine getting them much cheaper than that! I'm getting that car all sorted, spent a K on parts the last couple of days. He had some shop do the brakes and they are horrible. I think there is still air in the lines. I'm putting SS lines and hawk pads in. New shift knob, sunroof switch panel, trailing arm dog bones, CV boot, front lowers, clutch slave and line, new shifter... You get the idea. I want it to drive! That engine sounds so superb... It's amazing.
Back to the shocks, a friend of mine recommends the billies, so I think I'm just gonna get new ones.
 

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welcome to the M5 club :)
 

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Yep that's me! Cheaper to rebuild than to replace? Turner sells all 4 shocks for $479, I can't imagine getting them much cheaper than that! I'm getting that car all sorted, spent a K on parts the last couple of days. He had some shop do the brakes and they are horrible. I think there is still air in the lines. I'm putting SS lines and hawk pads in. New shift knob, sunroof switch panel, trailing arm dog bones, CV boot, front lowers, clutch slave and line, new shifter... You get the idea. I want it to drive! That engine sounds so superb... It's amazing.
Back to the shocks, a friend of mine recommends the billies, so I think I'm just gonna get new ones.
If those were dinan valved Billy's, I would at least shoot Bilstein an email inquiring how much to rebuild them.

But the Billy sports are not too harsh for Honolulu roads.

I thought the car already had a shift kit in it? If so, you may only need a few new bushings to sharpen it up.

Was the tensioner upgraded?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
welcome to the M5 club :)
Thanks!!

@blitzkrieg
I"ll have to call Bilstein. I wasn't aware that they were specially valved. And yeah, Phil told me that it had a ssk, but I looked at it and it looks pretty stock. I think I'm gonna try to just do the bushings, save the $ for the shocks. Sounds like you know a lot about the car. Prior owner?
 

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Thanks!!

@blitzkrieg
I"ll have to call Bilstein. I wasn't aware that they were specially valved. And yeah, Phil told me that it had a ssk, but I looked at it and it looks pretty stock. I think I'm gonna try to just do the bushings, save the $ for the shocks. Sounds like you know a lot about the car. Prior owner?
I was considering buying the car, but you grabbed it.... Didn't think there was anybody else who would be interested in the beast.

I'd take a good look at the bushings, rear shifter mount and shift rod selector.

I have an SSK too, but now I need to do the rear mount and shift rod selector to tighten up some slop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I'm glad I beat you to it, even if my wife is not! Maybe you cen tell me what I need. I have a lot of up and down play, and side to side play. It's very hard to put the car in R and 2nd. Should I just get a bushing kit from pelican?
 

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Well I'm glad I beat you to it, even if my wife is not! Maybe you cen tell me what I need. I have a lot of up and down play, and side to side play. It's very hard to put the car in R and 2nd. Should I just get a bushing kit from pelican?
The up/down play is the ball/cup bushing and the side play could be a combo of the linkage and mounts.

I would suggest looking at #s 7, 2, 13, 4, 16, 17, 15, 19, 20, 21 and seeing what is loose.



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take a look in here, I have the UUC upgrade and odd and ends I have done.
http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e34-m5-discussion/145753-spending-week-my-mistress.html
 

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I am looking to do the SLS delete and install H&R springs with either Koni Sports (yellows?) or Bilstein Sports. From your personal experiences, which are better shock inserts? Which are stiffer? I know koni sports are adjustable, are bilstein sports? I also know that there is a gap with the bilstein inserts, is there such a gap with konis?

I am also going to install most of the bushings and other rubber suspension parts. Has anyone had any good experiences with aftermarket polyurethane bushings or should i just stick with oem parts. My logic is to spend a little extra and have it last a lifetime, as well as enjoy the stiffer more responsive ride.

Also, if someone has a recommendation for some other springs, please let me know.
 

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I am looking to do the SLS delete and install H&R springs with either Koni Sports (yellows?) or Bilstein Sports. From your personal experiences, which are better shock inserts? Which are stiffer? I know koni sports are adjustable, are bilstein sports? I also know that there is a gap with the bilstein inserts, is there such a gap with konis?

I am also going to install most of the bushings and other rubber suspension parts. Has anyone had any good experiences with aftermarket polyurethane bushings or should i just stick with oem parts. My logic is to spend a little extra and have it last a lifetime, as well as enjoy the stiffer more responsive ride.

Also, if someone has a recommendation for some other springs, please let me know.
Which is better? they are both very different.... Konis are adjustable and allow for fine tuning to your tastes. The Bilstiens are not adjustable. I chose the Bilstiens for a combination of price and that I don't need to fiddle with the damping rate, I drive on the street and don't go to the track.

Same with poly bushings...some like the added stiffness, others say it makes the car rouigh to ride in.

Springs come in three flavors.... Soft= Bav Auto, vogtland. Firm = Eibach. Stiff= H&R
 
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I found poly thrust arm bushes made a big difference to turn in and front end bite, but I use the car every day and the absorption over sharp bumps was too harsh. The OEM bushes improve small bump absorption, but the front is nothing like as sharp. If yours is going to be a track toy the poly bushes are better.
 

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I think it will be more of a daily/pleasure driver. That is why i am going springs instead of coilovers and more than likely will go stock bushes instead of polyurethane. Unless of course there is a compromise as far as bushings go.
 

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I have run through many different sets. The konis with the H&R's is the way to go hands down.

I have 2 E34 M5's one with konis and the H&R's. The other has been through billies, eibachs, a set of ground control coil-overs and now to RD sports I luckily picked up before they sold them all and H&R's and its great.

They both are my daily drivers currently and track cars and that combo works the best.

I would stick with the stock bushings upfront if you're gonna drive it everyday and don't want every little thing to come through the car.

Track car go with the polys.....The stock bushings up front will still be fine at the track but like he said it wont bite and respond as crisp with the polys....

Dont forget to when doing the sls delete to take both plungers out of the steering pump and disconnect and cap the rear bleed back line from the pump too.

Is very easy if you just do it right the first time!!!!

Let me know if you need any help anything.
 

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Yes...i kinda decided to go koni/h&r springs and stock bushings.

As far as the SLS delete goes, I was going to take all the equipment out and cut the line out of the power steering and connect it to the reservoir. I've seen people do that here before and that to me sounds like the simplest. I am not sure what "two plungers" you're talking about but I guess i will find out when I start the work.
 

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These pics and info are from a old thread but its very simple and the best for the pump and you are guaranteed to not have any issues what so ever in the long run!

Take the pump off the car and remove the lines to do so. (gets a little oily). In the picture the pump is split into 2 (you dont have to do that. Just pull it out just as it is and removed the 2 plungers (I am correct when I say 2 there is one on both sides of the pump) one you will see just looking at it from under the car the other is 180 degrees exactly on the other side.



The plug with the X on it is the one you need to remove and take out the spring and plunger (item #13 #14 and #15 from diagram)
use a large flat head screw driver and hammer down on it while turning at the same time. Have someone hold the pump for you!



Plug Removed!



Layout!



The plug is a M18 x 1.5 threaded plug with an o-ring I believe to seal off the return line coming back from the sls valve in the rear to the pump.

Hope this all makes sense. If not ask away glad to help!
 
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