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Weird trans fluid leak

19K views 52 replies 11 participants last post by  Rittmeister  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I have an odd tranny leak. Dont have a pic at the moment but it looks like its leaking from the bottom of the seam where the bellhousing part of the case bolts to the second part of the tranny. Only other thing I can think of is the input shaft seal but I would think the fluid would run down and out where the holes are where the trans bolts to the engine. Has anyone had a tranny leak similar to this?
 
#3 ·
What about output shaft seal?
 
#5 ·
#8 · (Edited)
I have an ongoing problem with this myself. It’s a very minor leak and tough to tell where it actually originates. I have a theory that it actually leaks from the bolt holes, but it’s hard to confirm. Since I’ve had a leak at both input and output seals in the past, you can basically rule that out for what the OP describes. You will know if you have a input seal leak if the transmission fluid leaks at the front of the bell housing through the inspection holes. For leaks at the output seal, the fluid will obviously leak at the back of the transmission and will typically drip on the exhaust when you drive. When I’ve had a output shaft seal leak, you could actually smell the transmission fluid burning on the exhaust. I’ve taken my transmission apart numerous times and can tell you there is no gasket or sealant to be found between the casing. It’s just metal to metal. When I was trying to resolve the leak mentioned in this thread, I used some sealant between the casing and I still get the leak. I have given up at this point and will deal with again when I get a chance. My next plan is to maybe use one of those LED UV flashlight leak kits. Also, I suspect there are many more with this problem, but just don’t know about since the underbody cover can easily disguise the leak. My leak is so minor, you would never know you had it unless you pulled the underbody cover.

John
 
#9 ·
I’ve taken my transmission apart numerous times and can tell you there is no gasket or sealant to be found between the casing. It’s just metal to metal.
John
Really? That explains why the joint faces look so clean in the photo above. Getrag must have a lot of confidence in their ability to m/c those faces dead flat and smooth.

Bolting the sections together with engineers blue on the faces would maybe show if the castings had distorted.

I've seen porosity in a casting cause hard-to-find weeping leaks. The dye and UV light would be a good way to detect that.
 
#15 ·
was just under mine yesterday, I've got evidence of the same - no real wetness or leak, but signatures of a leak at some point... maybe it leaks when hot then dries up

it also looks like someone either used a test dye kit to find it, or some sort of goop to seal it up at some point - there are traces of a strange greenish sludge in some areas

as others have said - no real concern, never hits the ground (my covers are off this week) - I wouldn't fret it's not worth it
 
#18 ·
well my bolt hole fix didn't fix the leak. thought of another idea, the tranny must have a vent on top somewhere. wondering if the vent is partially blocked and allowing too much pressure to build up. does anyone know if the pic on the first page of this thread is a 420g trans from an m5? i cant tell with it split apart like that. looks like there is a vent on the upper part of the trans.
 
#23 ·
I knew I should have taken a picture of that thing when I pulled mine out for inspection at one point. Anyway, if I remember correctly, it’s nothing more than a plastic piece that’s a little smaller in diameter than the transmission hole. It has a bell type of cap as depicted in Sailor’s picture that protects anything from going in the transmission. As far as your leak goes, I don’t think this is causing your problem. If your leak happens while the car is just sitting in the garage and not on, I can’t see how anything would leak upwards then out of this vent cap? I’ve thought the very same thing at one point. I still think your problem is related to the casing.

John
 
#22 ·
Just going by other vents but the cap could be there to protect a small filter of some sort. Not all vents have filters though, they are usually porous foam. The cap will be bigger than the tube and where it inserts into the tube be fins likely so that air can pass freely. Once you get the cap out you might want to check and see if there is something else hidden in the tube. Welcome back to E39 world.
 
#25 ·
I agree. From the way I understand it, the vent is used to relieve pressure on the seals while the transmission is moving. So, if it's clogged, it could potentially force a leak. In my case, I saw no obstruction and I actually put a screwdriver down the hole just to make sure. I'm going to try and poke around my car this weekend and I will try and pull that cap and take a picture just so you all can see that there is not much to it. I also have one of those video scopes and will try and shoot some video of the area.

John
 
#29 ·
update, i have finally been able to pinpoint where the leak is coming from but all my attempts to fix it to date have failed. its leaking from the hole where the dowel pin is on the drivers side of the tranny. i tried jb weld, indian head schellac, i even heated it up and filled the hole with pulmber's solder. it doesn't make any sense as there is really is no pressure in the gearbox so any of these fixes should have held. im done messing around, this weekend im taking it up to my friends shop to have him tig weld the hole closed!
 

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#30 · (Edited)
nightkrawler,
Did you manage to fix your leak? I had to disassemble the transmission in order to fix jammed cruise control pin that got my tranny stuck on 3rd gear. I installed everything back last night and found the same leak this morning. I haven't started the car,so there is no pressure in tranny. I'm considering loosing the bolts and torquing them back in a crossed pattern, just being more precise in the right torque wich by TIS I found it to be 22Nm
I'm curious to know what did you endup doing.

Thank you!
Ves
 
#31 ·
no not yet, im going to have my friend weld tig weld the hole. it doesn't make any sense as there isn't really much if any pressure inside the gearbox, idk why that spot wont stop leaking. if i had the trans apart i would have knocked out that dowel pin and put a nut and bolt through the hole with a crush washer on both sides. you had the trans apart, is there any way the pin could possibly be knocked through with the trans already bolted together?
 
#32 ·
You need to punch out the dowels in order not to stress the housing while taking it apart. So yes, you can punch them out with the trans in the car. There is one more on the top part.
My guessing so far is that getrag didn't use any gasket in order to escape gasket failure since tranny is designed to be not serviceable. To manage that the surfaces needs to be extremely smooth and when assembling it in the factory would be used specific sequence and applied torque.
I'm curious why yours, if it haven't been dissembled, developed a leak.
In my case I may have scratched it or just haven't manage to torqued it properly which I will check tomorrow
 
#38 ·
great! so you did this with the tranny in the car. was the pin hard to knock out? i was worried that if this is indeed possible the pin might be in there really tight and worried about cracking that flange area knocking it out. which way does the pin have to be knocked out, toward the front or the back? ie can it only come out one way?
 
#40 ·
knocked out the pins last night. fyi if you take a propane/map gas torch and heat the area up a bit they tap out quite easily. now my next question, what did you do about the front pin hole as the forward side of hole is not flat so a nut or bolt head doesn't sit flush against the case. i ground down the bolt head at an angle to try and get it to sit right.
 
#42 ·
I am sorry for the late response! I used a thick washer that I grounded down at an angle like you did with the bolt head. All this slowed down the leak but did not fixed it. I'm still getting a drop every 1-2 days. I will be loosing all the bolts and tighten them back on using more precise torque wrench so they all have equal force.
How is your situation? Did you manage to seal it?