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WATER PUMP Replacement - Do I have everything needed, DIY video available?

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MPBC
2
After completing all the recent repairs, the only high mileage component remaining is the water pump, which has approximately 120,000 miles on it. I also observed coolant spots in various areas of the engine bay, leading me to suspect that the water pump is leaking coolant. I have placed an order for the following parts.

Replacing the water pump on this car is a task I have never undertaken before, so I feel a bit apprehensive about it. I have read some do-it-yourself (DIY) guides, but I am concerned about the torque (TQ) specifications and the correct procedure specifically for crank pulley bolts and their torque to yield plus angle torque. Is angle TQ different from a TQ wrench?

Does anyone have a video tutorial of the DIY process? I understand the steps for removal, and I am comfortable with them, except for a warning I came across regarding the possibility of a seal in the back falling out.

I appreciate any advice or guidance you can provide in advance.

SPEED HAVEN
BMW Vibration Damper Holder × 1
BMW TDC Pin × 1

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
11-51-1-407-113​
BMW Water Pump Assembly -​
$551.25​
1​
$551.25​
11-51-1-406-765​
Water Pump Assembly Gasket​
$15.01​
1​
$15.01​
11-23-1-402-618​
Crank Pulley Bolt​
$6.91​
4​
$27.64​
11-51-1-406-933​
Pulley​
$43.23​
1​
$43.23​
11-53-1-710-055​
Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring​
$1.68​
2​
$3.36​
11-53-1-406-249​
Connector Pipe O-Ring​
$1.16​
6​
$6.96​
11-53-1-407-002​
Connector Pipe O-Ring​
$2.45​
4​
$9.80​
82-14-1-467-704​
Antifreeze/Coolant - Convertible​
$21.19​
1​
$21.19​
11-53-7-835-558​
BMW Thermostat​
$90.76​
1​
$90.76​
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AgentKiri
While you're on there. It's a good idea to change the front main seal, also the vibration damper tool I got from speed haven was too long to tighten it bexause the wheel spins clockwise. So I had to use the TDC tool (oem bmw) because the speed haven one was slightly too thick.

If you arent changing out the thermostat housing (which I did to make it easy) there is a gasket in the thermostat housing that needs to be replaced.

Side job, but since you have the coolent out, now is a good time to change radiator, or heater core valve, or heater core hoses or a combination of what i said.

If the heater core valve is done, you have easy access to replace power steering hoses. Because with the heater core hoses out, it's a straight shot to the banjo bolt for hose 8.

If you do replace the heater core hoses, when they're off, it's SUPER easy to replace CPS sensors. If that hasn't been done, doing it now will prevent a lot of swearing.

Lastly, but multiple pairs of orings. Having extra 20 cent orings will be useful when you turn on the car and it's leaking coolent because a ring was pinched, or is damaged during the installation process (it happened to me). Use petroleum jelly so liberally, that you can slip into any hole.

Torque angle is as it sounds. If I recall correctly you torque to X nm (for all 4 bolts) then torque it another x° (4 all 4 bolts) then another x° (for all 4 bolts). Then it's complete.

Edit: unless your torque wrench supports angle (usually electric) you might need another torque angle adaptor, wrench, tool, or something to measure angle.
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M
This is what I used when I did my front crank seal / water pump. Works great, does angle too:

www.harborfreight.com

1/2 in. Drive 12.5-250 ft. lb. Digital Angle Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr Digital Angle Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

The specs for the bolts are: 60 nm, 50 deg, then another 50 deg. That last 50 is hard

The vibration damper tool works fine, you just need to have the holes lined up right. The SH TDC lock pin fits fine too, but it does require some force to get it to fully seat. I would NOT use the TDC lock to tighten the front crank bolts, that's a good way to break it...
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M
For this "except for a warning I came across regarding the possibility of a seal in the back falling out."

There is the pipe that connects to the back of the water pump. That pipe runs through the valley to the back of the engine. You do not want to pull the back of the pipe out, you'll be in a world of hurt and disassembly.

So, when removing the water pump, make sure to hold that pipe in place. The pump really isn't that hard to remove, doesn't take a lot of force to remove the pipe from the pump. Replace the o-ring on the pipe: 11531710055
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MPBC
While you're on there. It's a good idea to change the front main seal, also the vibration damper tool I got from speed haven was too long to tighten it bexause the wheel spins clockwise. So I had to use the TDC tool (oem bmw) because the speed haven one was slightly too thick.

My front main seal was replaced 60k miles ago, but I guess it won't hurt to have a fresh one in there. Do you have a part number on hand, and is it a simple process?

I guess I'll have to send the speed haven tool back, and order bmw one, unless I can use a drill of approximate size as I've seen others use it.

If you arent changing out the thermostat housing (which I did to make it easy) there is a gasket in the thermostat housing that needs to be replaced.

I replaced my TS about 8k miles ago and the gasket 50k miles ago, but I guess I could purchase new housing with the gasket in it.

Side job, but since you have the coolent out, now is a good time to change radiator, or heater core valve, or heater core hoses or a combination of what i said.

I installed a new radiator along with hoses and clutch fan + clutch about 1k miles ago. Which one is the heater core?

If the heater core valve is done, you have easy access to replace power steering hoses.

Steering hoses were also replaced when I did the radiator.

Because with the heater core hoses out, it's a straight shot to the banjo bolt for hose 8.

If you do replace the heater core hoses, when they're off, it's SUPER easy to replace CPS sensors. If that hasn't been done, doing it now will prevent a lot of swearing.

Camshaft position sensors were replaced about 50K miles ago, not sure if there is a need?

Lastly, but multiple pairs of orings. Having extra 20 cent orings will be useful when you turn on the car and it's leaking coolent because a ring was pinched, or is damaged during the installation process (it happened to me). Use petroleum jelly so liberally, that you can slip into any hole.

I did the TS 3x, I know the pain and have several on hand.

Torque angle is as it sounds. If I recall correctly you torque to X nm (for all 4 bolts) then torque it another x° (4 all 4 bolts) then another x° (for all 4 bolts). Then it's complete.

II understand, sounds more scary than it actually is!

Edit: unless your torque wrench supports angle (usually electric) you might need another torque angle adaptor, wrench, tool, or something to measure angle.

I believe it does!


Thank you!
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MPBC
mgdmb said:
This is what I used when I did my front crank seal / water pump. Works great, does angle too:

www.harborfreight.com

1/2 in. Drive 12.5-250 ft. lb. Digital Angle Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr Digital Angle Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I believe I have the same one, super!

The specs for the bolts are: 60 nm, 50 deg, then another 50 deg. That last 50 is hard

Thank you, I will use my digital TQ wrench that you showed me. Are the TQ numbers for the water pump or the crank bolts?

The vibration damper tool works fine, you just need to have the holes lined up right.

Alright, i will try it.

The SH TDC lock pin fits fine too, but it does require some force to get it to fully seat.

Just spit on it, 😂

I would NOT use the TDC lock to tighten the front crank bolts, that's a good way to break it...

How would you tighten it so it doesn't spin? Im bit confused here....
Click to expand...
This is what I used when I did my front crank seal / water pump. Works great, does angle too:

www.harborfreight.com

1/2 in. Drive 12.5-250 ft. lb. Digital Angle Torque Wrench

Amazing deals on this 1/2In Dr Digital Angle Torque Wrench at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

I have https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-1-2...que-Wrench-12-5-ft-lb-to-250-ft-lb/5001994789

The specs for the bolts are: 60 nm, 50 deg, then another 50 deg. That last 50 is hard

Thank you, I will use my digital TQ wrench that you showed me. Are the TQ numbers for the water pump or the crank bolts?

The vibration damper tool works fine, you just need to have the holes lined up right.

Alright, i will try it.

The SH TDC lock pin fits fine too, but it does require some force to get it to fully seat.

Just spit on it, 😂

I would NOT use the TDC lock to tighten the front crank bolts, that's a good way to break it...

How would you tighten it so it doesn't spin? Im bit confused here.... Use this tool instead?

EDIT. I understand now, but how do I align it? This is what confuses me...



What is the point of BMW Vibration Damper Holder ?

Thank you.
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MPBC
mgdmb said:
For this "except for a warning I came across regarding the possibility of a seal in the back falling out."

There is the pipe that connects to the back of the water pump. That pipe runs through the valley to the back of the engine. You do not want to pull the back of the pipe out, you'll be in a world of hurt and disassembly.

So, when removing the water pump, make sure to hold that pipe in place. The pump really isn't that hard to remove, doesn't take a lot of force to remove the pipe from the pump. Replace the o-ring on the pipe: 11531710055
Click to expand...
This is a very voluble information, I will be careful pulling the pump off while watching the pipe and making sure it doesn't move. 🙏
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AgentKiri
MPBC said:
While you're on there. It's a good idea to change the front main seal, also the vibration damper tool I got from speed haven was too long to tighten it bexause the wheel spins clockwise. So I had to use the TDC tool (oem bmw) because the speed haven one was slightly too thick.

My front main seal was replaced 60k miles ago, but I guess it won't hurt to have a fresh one in there. Do you have a part number on hand, and is it a simple process?

I guess I'll have to send the speed haven tool back, and order bmw one, unless I can use a drill of approximate size as I've seen others use it.

If you arent changing out the thermostat housing (which I did to make it easy) there is a gasket in the thermostat housing that needs to be replaced.

I replaced my TS about 8k miles ago and the gasket 50k miles ago, but I guess I could purchase new housing with the gasket in it.

Side job, but since you have the coolent out, now is a good time to change radiator, or heater core valve, or heater core hoses or a combination of what i said.

I installed a new radiator along with hoses and clutch fan + clutch about 1k miles ago. Which one is the heater core?

If the heater core valve is done, you have easy access to replace power steering hoses.

Steering hoses were also replaced when I did the radiator.

Because with the heater core hoses out, it's a straight shot to the banjo bolt for hose 8.

If you do replace the heater core hoses, when they're off, it's SUPER easy to replace CPS sensors. If that hasn't been done, doing it now will prevent a lot of swearing.

Camshaft position sensors were replaced about 50K miles ago, not sure if there is a need?

Lastly, but multiple pairs of orings. Having extra 20 cent orings will be useful when you turn on the car and it's leaking coolent because a ring was pinched, or is damaged during the installation process (it happened to me). Use petroleum jelly so liberally, that you can slip into any hole.

I did the TS 3x, I know the pain and have several on hand.

Torque angle is as it sounds. If I recall correctly you torque to X nm (for all 4 bolts) then torque it another x° (4 all 4 bolts) then another x° (for all 4 bolts). Then it's complete.

II understand, sounds more scary than it actually is!

Edit: unless your torque wrench supports angle (usually electric) you might need another torque angle adaptor, wrench, tool, or something to measure angle.

I believe it does!


Thank you!
Click to expand...
1. Front main seal (11141275466). It was easy when I used speed haven tools.
2. No need to spend money for a new housing if you know how to replace the gasket in the housing (I spent the 200 just for quality of life and less swearing, but there are guru's who know how to easily get the gasket inside of the thermostat housing out easily).

3


It is part 1 and it is on the right side (driver side) in between the engine and the fender. The car is 20 yrs old, and if the hoses havent been replaced it can be a location that ends up draining all of the coolant if it breaks down. But its usually a job (that I did) because the heater core valve was throwing a code.

4. If the power steering hoses, CPS sensors have already been changed, unless youre a preventive maint guy with ADHD or OCD. I guess there is no need to replace it.

Also TDC is what I had to use, (he is right good way to break it, honesly it was abuse) but the speed haven tool that replaces tool 11 0 270 that you see to prevent it from spinning (different positions for clockwise and counter clockwise) when you tighten it, is about 1 in too long when i used it (it worked completely fine for loosening) . So i had to use the TDC (OEM BMW) pin to hold the dampener down to tighten it because I didnt want to have the car be down any longer.
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MPBC
AgentKiri said:
1. Front main seal (11141275466). It was easy when I used speed haven tools.
2. No need to spend money for a new housing if you know how to replace the gasket in the housing (I spent the 200 just for quality of life and less swearing, but there are guru's who know how to easily get the gasket inside of the thermostat housing out easily).

3 View attachment 974400

It is part 1 and it is on the right side (driver side) in between the engine and the fender. The car is 20 yrs old, and if the hoses havent been replaced it can be a location that ends up draining all of the coolant if it breaks down. But its usually a job (that I did) because the heater core valve was throwing a code.

4. If the power steering hoses, CPS sensors have already been changed, unless youre a preventive maint guy with ADHD or OCD. I guess there is no need to replace it.

Also TDC is what I had to use, (he is right good way to break it, honesly it was abuse) but the speed haven tool that replaces tool 11 0 270 that you see to prevent it from spinning (different positions for clockwise and counter clockwise) when you tighten it, is about 1 in too long when i used it (it worked completely fine for loosening) . So i had to use the TDC (OEM BMW) pin to hold the dampener down to tighten it because I didnt want to have the car be down any longer.
Click to expand...
  1. I intend to place an order for the seal. Can I simply utilize a pick to remove it? And is it necessary to apply lubrication during installation?
  2. The first time I attempted to change the TS I struggled quite a bit and may have uttered a few choice words, haha. I believe this time I'll opt to purchase a new housing instead.
  3. I have previously replaced it once, but it seems like I've replaced almost everything else in this car.
  4. The hoses are relatively new, but what about the CPS (Crank Position Sensor)? I wonder why they designed the tool to be excessively long. Hmm, I'm considering whether I should order the BMW-specific one.
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AgentKiri
MPBC said:
  1. I intend to place an order for the seal. Can I simply utilize a pick to remove it? And is it necessary to apply lubrication during installation?
  2. The first time I attempted to change the TS I struggled quite a bit and may have uttered a few choice words, haha. I believe this time I'll opt to purchase a new housing instead.
  3. I have previously replaced it once, but it seems like I've replaced almost everything else in this car.
  4. The hoses are relatively new, but what about the CPS (Crank Position Sensor)? I wonder why they designed the tool to be excessively long. Hmm, I'm considering whether I should order the BMW-specific one.
Click to expand...
A pick would be hard to remove it... If you dont have the tools and would rather spend the money on other preventative maint because bmw tools are expensive. Its prob fine to leave it be if you know its history (i think if it was easy to remove with just a pick, it would prob be easily damaged)

2. When you do the job you'll love your past self for buying it.

3. well then no point to replace it lol. Since you have everything replaced and the P/S lines are replaced too.

4.CPS? with the hoses out it just makes the driver side a lot less painful.

As for speedhavens tool( it was prob done that way to work with multiple engines) either that or I screwed up somewhere while trying to use the tool and am embarrassing myself on the public forum right now. But based on TIS's image and the tool, it looked too long. (but you're less likely to go wrong with BMW tools and speedy's last batch for tools was very poorly made and I had a lot of issues trying to use it versus the OEM tools I got) (i ended up having two sets because i bought the BMW one first, and then Speedy's kit for the other tools that i didn't have that was still cheaper than buying bmw tools)
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M
His tool is an exact clone of the BMW version. Again, you need the holes lined up correctly (TDC isn't a concern here) and a block of wood between it and the upper oil pan... even TIS shows that
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MPBC
mgdmb said:
His tool is an exact clone of the BMW version. Again, you nedd the holes lined up correctly (TDC isn't a concern here) and a block of wood between it and the upper oil pan... even TIS shows that
Click to expand...
That is what I read as well. The question, if I may, is how do I correctly line up the holes?

Align locating bore in the vibration damper to the dowel pin (1) Which one is locating bore? I'm sorry for asking what seems to be obvious.
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M
Rotate the crank?
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AgentKiri
^yeah you'll rotate the crank (make sure your transmission is in neutral) with like a big socket. You'll see the hex shape as you take the damper apart
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M
It's 32mm / 1.25"
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T
I've used Shady's tool for torqueing the damper bolts twice now and it worked perfect both times. The TDC tool is tight for a reason. That said, even a small amount of dirt and corrosion can make fitting it in all the way nearly impossible. Make sure the hole is clean before reinstalling it to the engine. You really don't need that for this procedure anyway. Just bolt the holder to the damper and rotate until it contacts a block of wood as suggested. This is the way.

Your parts list looks fine.

Side note on waterpumps. "Back in the day" we were seeing a lot of original pumps failing between 100-130k miles. My original pump failed at 135k. I replaced with OE BMW and got nearly 200k miles out of it before I changed it chasing my cooling issue. Upon close inspection, there is nothing wrong with it, so I kept it as a spare. I haven't heard of any replacement pumps failing, either because most people aren't as crazy as me with miles accumulated or because the replacement pumps are somehow better quality. Not sure. Sorry for the sidetrack, just sharing...
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MPBC
technician117 said:
I've used Shady's tool for torqueing the damper bolts twice now and it worked perfect both times. The TDC tool is tight for a reason. That said, even a small amount of dirt and corrosion can make fitting it in all the way nearly impossible. Make sure the hole is clean before reinstalling it to the engine. You really don't need that for this procedure anyway. Just bolt the holder to the damper and rotate until it contacts a block of wood as suggested. This is the way.

Your parts list looks fine.

Side note on waterpumps. "Back in the day" we were seeing a lot of original pumps failing between 100-130k miles. My original pump failed at 135k. I replaced with OE BMW and got nearly 200k miles out of it before I changed it chasing my cooling issue. Upon close inspection, there is nothing wrong with it, so I kept it as a spare. I haven't heard of any replacement pumps failing, either because most people aren't as crazy as me with miles accumulated or because the replacement pumps are somehow better quality. Not sure. Sorry for the sidetrack, just sharing...
Click to expand...
I'm just as crazy, 😂
Awaiting for all the parts, and I also have these on order.
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Trizzuth
Based on the questions you are asking in this thread, it appears you are not a devout fan of M539 Restorations as his videos would have already answered most of your questions here and he shows you exactly what to do, especially in terms of torque angles and removal and reinsallation of the front main seal.

This is your bible, watch the entire thing front to back and you will see how this job is done:

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MPBC
Trizzuth said:
Based on the questions you are asking in this thread, it appears you are not a devout fan of M539 Restorations as his videos would have already answered most of your questions here and he shows you exactly what to do, especially in terms of torque angles and removal and reinsallation of the front main seal.

This is your bible, watch the entire thing front to back and you will see how this job is done:

Click to expand...
Thank you
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MPBC
Trizzuth said:
Based on the questions you are asking in this thread, it appears you are not a devout fan of M539 Restorations as his videos would have already answered most of your questions here and he shows you exactly what to do, especially in terms of torque angles and removal and reinsallation of the front main seal.

This is your bible, watch the entire thing front to back and you will see how this job is done:

Click to expand...
That video is incredible! It's great that he mentioned m5board! I'm excited to try out the pump and take care of other small tasks. I'm thinking about replacing the front main seal, but I have some doubts about his approach, haha. Maybe I'll purchase the necessary tool or consider renting it.
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