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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting vibration going through the whole car at any speed over 90 mph. It just gets worse and worse the faster I go. Its throught the whole of the car and not through the steering wheel at all.
 

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You need to start checking rotational parts for balance. I'd start by looking at the prop coupling and the rear wheel balance. Stick it in the air and visually inspect everything that moves...
 

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Cyrus said:
I'm getting vibration going through the whole car at any speed over 90 mph. It just gets worse and worse the faster I go. Its throught the whole of the car and not through the steering wheel at all.
I would go along with Mike on that.
Rear wheel weights are usually stuck on & DO come off.
Drive shaft balance weights do come off but very rare indeed.
Rear suspension Beam mounts could have collapsed.
Check for play in rear wheel bearings

My money is on rear wheel weights going walk about or just the rears going out of balance if a borderline wheel balance was done when new tyres were fitted last which can take a few thousand miles to show.

Good luck

Regards
Farrell
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,


Rear sub frame bushes are brand new so no problems there.

It does say on the last inspection sheet that there is paly in the rear wheel bearings.

Are these a hard job to do yourself?

Will also get the prop coupling looking at because there is nasty play in the drive drain. When I engaged the clutch I get a thud in every gear change. I have to be super smooth with the clutch release to get no thud......is this a different problem?

Will get wheel Balancing done as a matter of course

Thanks
 

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Cyrus said:
Thanks guys,


Rear sub frame bushes are brand new so no problems there.

It does say on the last inspection sheet that there is paly in the rear wheel bearings.

Are these a hard job to do yourself?

Will also get the prop coupling looking at because there is nasty play in the drive drain. When I engaged the clutch I get a thud in every gear change. I have to be super smooth with the clutch release to get no thud......is this a different problem?

Will get wheel Balancing done as a matter of course

Thanks
Cyrus
Rear Wheel bearing can be 1.5 hours per side or an all day nightmare.

Best not to have the bearings fail completely... Not recommended.

Drive train Backlash. A pet subject. Start with the problems you can have with the input shaft & work your way back to the Hypoid (differential)
I am inclined to think that the differential is going to be ok but not guaranteed.

Lots of hard launches tend to screw the tranny (sorry bad choice of words :haha: ) opening up the the backlash tolerances on the individual gear sets but what tends to happen is the first & second gear clusters open up & with that you tend to also get driveline whine on drive or coast down faces of the gear or both. The intermeshing of the gears has worn & the corresponding gears are now contacting on the roots of the gear causing the whine.

If you are getting excessive driveline clunk in ALL gears at varieing speeds it could be the input shaft thats worn or going the other side of the tranny to the drive shaft , it could be the hookes joint that is worn or central support that is loose.

Without inspection you cannot say for sure.
I hope it is not your transmission on its way out....
How many miles & owners has your M5 Seen ?

If I can help in some way let me know...

Regards
Farrell
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wohoo....bit technical for me!

OK the gearbox is totally and utterly siletn as is the diff. The Gearbox was fully rebuilt 15k miles ago.

I am getting the drivetrain clunk in all gears, its not that severe but just means I have to release clutch very nicely. Someone said it could well be the prop doughnut.

The diff seems ok aswell, no weird noises, only at really low speeds when turning it can make a deep growling noise.

The thudding defintly feels as though its coming from the centre of the car, I know its to tell but thats what it feels like.

I will be taking it to bexley motorworks for an inspection.

The car has 197k miles on it but everything seems to have been rebuilt.

The only problems with the whole car seem to be the vibration, the drivetrain clunk, totally worn out upper control arm bushes and it needs a steering box rebuild as theres a fair bit of play.

What the proceedure to change rear wheel bearings?
 

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Had the same thing with my 3.8 - it was the prop doughnut coupling. The main symptoms was a stink of rubber which got worse the faster you went, but there was a bit of vibration too.
 

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I have a vibration under braking. It seems to get worse the more times your on the brakes. Do you think a Disc is warped? Had the wheels all balanced and hasn't made a difference. Also i think its worse with heavy braking. Fine at lower speeds!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Defintaley cant be your disks because if they were warped they would cause vibration all the time and youd feel it in the brake pedal.

From reading around this is most certainly the upper control arm bushes. I have the exact same problem and will be changing mine soon. Its also highly advisable to change the control arms themselves as the balljoint will probably go after a while and youll have wasted the money on the bush.

I think the cost is about £82 each for the control arms and £30 each for the bushes, all from BMW. I was quoted £150 to change both sides whicj about 3 hours labour from a specialist. So you'll need around £400 so solve this problem!

Change them yourself and save £150. Not a hard job by any means.
 

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Oh right cool. I will go and order them today!! Iam getting AP brakes so this can be done while the car is in the Air! Anything else you think that needs replacing?!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have a look at your anti roll bar links and tie rods aswell and any other bushes that may be under there. Dont order these parts!.......get them checked before hand.

Should make a huge difference once its all done.
 

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So basicly its mainly bushes etc.. Might change them all anyway.. Peice of mind and all that as Iam doing a trip of Europe this year to Zanvoort, Spa and Ring!
 

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Burton,

Just to add some caution to what Cyrus said about the control arm being easy to change. Be sure to order the control arm with the bushing installed. I'm not sure if you can install the bushing yourself as it is on there very tight.
 

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Burton:

I also have an excel file that is a lot easier to read. I couldn't figure out how to attach it here but if you would like I would be happy to email it to you.

John Z.
 
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