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Discussion Starter #1
Well it's here, the dreaded 113 Vanos2 regulation code....along with misfires and terrible idle roughness (1100! on Inpa)

So got the board out. Are you guys running the solenoids without the gauze filter rings or are you putting those plastic rings back on the solenoid?

Plus I'm gonna check the connections and Varistors on the board. Last night me and my neighbor put 12v to each solenoid and two are sounding

strong and the other two are sounding a little weaker, we resoldered the connections that everybody does and looked like a crack.

So after we that put everything back in, cleared codes and adaptations, and went for a ride and was okay, then warmed up and took a complete

dive, still have code 113 vanos reg.............


Any info on getting individual solenoids? also checked the solenoids right from the contacts on the noids, not pre-varistor or from the board, maybe

I should try to get them to kick open, applying power to the board and not directly to the noids.

gonna pick up my gasket and onion rings today from ECS (right down the road lol) and have all weekend to make this board look and work

beautifully. hopefully they just need cleaned...........and the board needs checked. Wish me luck.....
 

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You might have a bad solenoid, I just sent the board and all to Dr. Vanos. They well sort it all out for you if can't get them to work this weekend.
 

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Please look up my posts on this issue, and others as well. It's been discussed 100X over.

Individual solenoids are not sold by the dealer, and you can buy the whole board with 4x solenoids on it for around 2K?

You can find them for sale as well used from others. Did you check individual solenoid with a 12v source? Please search for more on the subject.

Paul.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Okay the only question I have left is, Can I put the solenoids back in the car with those brown plastic gauze filters removed? It looked like Vaanta removed his but I wasn't sure if he put those brown plastic rings back on the solenoid.

So far so good though, got the solenoids removed from the board and opened them with a 9v battery while running some CRC Electronics cleaner/compressed air through them......they sound a little better now (might be in my head...) and some gunk looked like it came out, maybe old guaze filter breakdown....... we'll see tomorrow how everything goes back together... tonight gonna stay up late and de-solder the old cold looking stuff with braid and re-solder everything with new solder......
also gonna read more about the varistors on the board, and bought some diodes to substitute for the movs incase I need to do that....seems like the varistors act like a diode or some kind of gate to protect the DME.... I guess I'll learn more tonight........
 

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Okay the only question I have left is, Can I put the solenoids back in the car with those brown plastic gauze filters removed? It looked like Vaanta removed his but I wasn't sure if he put those brown plastic rings back on the solenoid.

So far so good though, got the solenoids removed from the board and opened them with a 9v battery while running some CRC Electronics cleaner/compressed air through them......they sound a little better now (might be in my head...) and some gunk looked like it came out, maybe old guaze filter breakdown....... we'll see tomorrow how everything goes back together... tonight gonna stay up late and de-solder the old cold looking stuff with braid and re-solder everything with new solder......
also gonna read more about the varistors on the board, and bought some diodes to substitute for the movs incase I need to do that....seems like the varistors act like a diode or some kind of gate to protect the DME.... I guess I'll learn more tonight........
Yes, you don't need the plastic filter ring. Ditch the whole thing. Once you remove the filter mesh, the ring is useless.

I am leery about replacing an MOV (what was originally installed) with a diode, simply because BMW picked an MOV over a diode. And also because from what I have read, MOV's usually fail open-circuit, whereas diodes usually fail shorted, which is bad news when a short can fry the switching transistor in that expensive DME.

You can get the MOV's from Dr VANOS for a few bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Okay so when I measure resistance on the MOVS I can only read it with positive and common on a certain side. Almost like its acting as a gate and they read 775 ohms on all of them, they all seem uniform so....hopefully they're okay, although I would probably need to desolder them to get an accurate resistance reading. Or any ideas on how to test them? I'm gonna try and google some stuff....
 

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The MOV's only start to flow current, and even then only one way, when the voltage across them gets up to 0.5V. Modern digital multimeters use a lot less than that to measure resistance so they always measure very high ohms across an MOV, in the megohms to OL.

So reading resistance across the SV and MOV still soldered to the board in parallel should only give you the resistance of the SV which is about 4 ohms. I don't understand why you are reading 775 ohms.

Your multimeter may have a diode testing option. You can use that to test the MOV's if removed from the board.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Okay, remeasured everything, and its around 4.5 ohms on the movs and solenoids, and everything seems uniform, maybe it was too late last night and not reading things right, board is resoldered and working and and gonna put new seals on and put back in the car in about 2 hrs. was up till 6am last night lol..............
 

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I had a similar problem, but never threw any codes. Make sure you clean the solenoids and boards very well. I used electronics cleaner on the boards and toothpicks to scrape off any residue. On the solenoids, I used Brakecleen in BOTH holes of each solenoid. I also re-soldered joints. It wasn't until the second time I cleaned them that it did the trick for me because I didn't understand about cleaning the solenoids well.

I just spoke with Chris at Dr. VANOS and solenoids are going for $400 each and MOV's are going for $10 each. Make sure you try cleaning well before wasting money. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Okay no luck :/ car started up ran fine even when fully warm, then about 5 minutes after fully warm, it was like I lost 4 cylinders, made it back home, funny thing is it did it right after I went over railroad tracks it feels like 5 6 7 8 aren't firing....... really strange...'

maybe it could be a bad connection, because before I removed the board the first time, I was getting codes for vanos but never this missing on 4 cylinders thing....
 

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Okay no luck :/ car started up ran fine even when fully warm, then about 5 minutes after fully warm, it was like I lost 4 cylinders, made it back home, funny thing is it did it right after I went over railroad tracks it feels like 5 6 7 8 aren't firing....... really strange...'

maybe it could be a bad connection, because before I removed the board the first time, I was getting codes for vanos but never this missing on 4 cylinders thing....

The other thing I did was swap my solenoid boards from bank 1 and 2 to see if the problem followed. It did, and this narrowed the problem down to the solenoid board for me. You may consider doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So no luck, even resoldered board and did the whole "clean and resolder everything" So, gonna install DISv44 on a laptop I have, and have I the OBDII to usb cable, so looks like a dis/vanos party tonight......

Found this though and sounds almost verbatim to my situation.

"I had a faulty solenoid a while back and it took me about 3 weeks to get the problem fixed, as far as the engine being damaged I agree with Doug.
In my case the car would work almost normally until the soleniod needed resetting (turning the car off and on). If I was unable to do this i.e. no where to pull over it would run rough and misfire."

Anybody have any used boards or solenoids that are working?, gonna call Dr. Vanos today and see what they have.....
I don't understand the price of this.. I don't have a problem paying money for quality parts, but $400 for a single Valve?, $2400 for a pcb and 4 solenoids out of a pinball machine? LOL! Is it supply that's the problem? Because 3 years ago they were like $500 for the whole pack. Did someone at BMW and or distributors of these products see that this was gonna be a recurring problem on our cars now due to age and decide to raise the price 500%? If that's the case that's price gouging and a little unethical to me............a little disappointed....

~M. V.~
 

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So no luck, even resoldered board and did the whole "clean and resolder everything" So, gonna install DISv44 on a laptop I have, and have I the OBDII to usb cable, so looks like a dis/vanos party tonight......

Found this though and sounds almost verbatim to my situation.

"I had a faulty solenoid a while back and it took me about 3 weeks to get the problem fixed, as far as the engine being damaged I agree with Doug.
In my case the car would work almost normally until the soleniod needed resetting (turning the car off and on). If I was unable to do this i.e. no where to pull over it would run rough and misfire."

Anybody have any used boards or solenoids that are working?, gonna call Dr. Vanos today and see what they have.....
I don't understand the price of this.. I don't have a problem paying money for quality parts, but $400 for a single Valve?, $2400 for a pcb and 4 solenoids out of a pinball machine? LOL! Is it supply that's the problem? Because 3 years ago they were like $500 for the whole pack. Did someone at BMW and or distributors of these products see that this was gonna be a recurring problem on our cars now due to age and decide to raise the price 500%? If that's the case that's price gouging and a little unethical to me............a little disappointed....

~M. V.~

EAG must have bought them up.........
 

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They've gone up since I bought a couple a year or so ago. Is the supply drying up?
In the four years I've owned my car the Vanos boards have gone from ~$550 ea to ~$2300 each from the dealer. Can't answer the supply question but there was a jump of over $1500 in one year.
 

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My guess is that yours broke like two of mine have. Below the little board where the solenoid wire comes out of the potting. This is in the DIY section and is how I go about it. http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/191986-vanos-solenoid-repair.html

The first one I repaired several year ago started getting sketchy last fall. I just replaced the solenoid and car is running again so I will once again have the privilege of repairing a solenoid, if it can be done this time. This might be my opportunity to tear one apart and see about reverse engineering it, but free time is not on my side.
 

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Okay no luck :/ car started up ran fine even when fully warm, then about 5 minutes after fully warm, it was like I lost 4 cylinders, made it back home, funny thing is it did it right after I went over railroad tracks it feels like 5 6 7 8 aren't firing....... really strange...'

maybe it could be a bad connection, because before I removed the board the first time, I was getting codes for vanos but never this missing on 4 cylinders thing....
Are you sure it's still VANOS? What codes are you getting?
 
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