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Hi everyone,

Just thought I'd share my first time ever doing something as advanced as vanos solenoid seal replacement and resoldering with cleaning. It was really quite easy thanks to the YouTube video and some patience! The vanos solenoids all sound equally nice and loud now when testing them with a battery, with one side particularly dead compared to the other side before soldering and cleaning them up with electronic cleaner and compressed air.

1 small problem though, I broke one of the metal gauze rings that sit between the bottom seal and top seal (picture below). I read somewhere I don't really need to replace them back onto the solenoids as they are pretty useless, especially seeing as most of the gauze on each ring is gone. Can anybody confirm this please?



And below some pictures of the finished solenoids (minus the metal gauze rings until someone can confirm if I can do without them?).





 

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Leave the gauze rings off all of them. Just a problem waiting to happen
 

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Leave the gauze rings off all of them. Just a problem waiting to happen
Thanks, I will not put the gauze filters back on at all. Loads of gunk came out of each solenoid when I thoroughly cleaned them out with electric cleaner and compressed air whilst opening and closing the vanos solenoids with a battery at the same time, so it must have been all that rubbish gauze.
 

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Thread revival. March of 2002 build M5 with 120K miles on the clock and I ordered the Beisan seals kit as preventative maintenance. I've pulled off the solenoids and boards and VANOS assembly. I'm looking at the the threaded ends of the splined shafts on the motor side right now wondering if I should have also gotten the Beisan rattle kit. I have some questions at this particular junction:

1) Should I remove the plastic "gauze" filter holders and simply not reinstall them or remove, clean the solenoids and re-install?
2) The shafts on the engine side of the splined gears which I haven't removed as I don't want to start messing with engine timing spin freely with no perceptible axial play when rotated by hand so do I save myself the grief of doing the rattle service if there is no issue there?
3) I've read that there is a diaphragm spring 180 degree rotation that is supposed to help but again this involves messing with engine timing, can someone elaborate on this and also if I need to replace the hub bolts to new 10.9 bolts???

I should mention I don't have any check engine lights prior to going down this rabbit's hole but all this started as I wanted to replace all 4 of my CPS and 2 TPS as well as rebuild all of the fuel injectors.
 

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1) leave the plastic filters off
2) can’t comment on this because I don’t know how much of a difference it will make
3) your car should already have the thicker spring plates. Older models have thinner ones. When they are upgraded to thicker they need to be flipped 180. You could upgrade to 10.9 if you remove and replace bolts 1 at a time.

My opinion, just do the seals and clean solenoids.
 

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Ok, thanks, will do. I now have a small issue. I seem to have an extra set of o-rings from the Beisan kit that I don't know where they belong. Here's the breakdown and maybe some one can point me in the right direction because I've been going over all the o-rings for an hour. See attached photo for o-ring accountability and left over set of o-rings.
 

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Ok, thanks, will do. I now have a small issue. I seem to have an extra set of o-rings from the Beisan kit that I don't know where they belong. Here's the breakdown and maybe some one can point me in the right direction because I've been going over all the o-rings for an hour. See attached photo for o-ring accountability and left over set of o-rings.
You should not have put this kit in your car. Do you not know how to search the bord? Stop asking people how to on a topic that is thought to be don't do with this kit.
What do you want? junk kit should not go in an M5!Same work OEM crud bonus great gain. Stop asking and PM about this. Learn how to search!
 

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You should not have put this kit in your car. Do you not know how to search the bord? Stop asking people how to on a topic that is thought to be don't do with this kit.
What do you want? junk kit should not go in an M5!Same work OEM crud bonus great gain. Stop asking and PM about this. Learn how to search!
I have searched and not sure why you are bashing Beisan products. Why is it a junk kit? A ton of people have used their products on both the S54 and S62 engine with great results.
 

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FYI, I contacted Raj at Beisan and he clarified the 2 "leftover" o-rings included in the "Seals kit" are actually the left/right secondary air pipe o-rings that is part of the procedure for the "Rattle kit" and not needed to be replaced when doing the seals kit so he said just to hang onto them or toss them, my choice.
 

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The beisan kit seemed good to me. And the seller provides service far beyond what one could ask for. I can only recommend it.. pulled my noids again to re clean them and used bmw o rings. They had a different color but thats about all i could tell were different.. time wilm tell if the beisan kit will last
 

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I think the hardest part of the o-ring replacement is not the Beisan o-rings but rather the BMW noid o-rings which have a very particular cross-section to them so A LOT more care has to be taken when installing them as they easily twist if you're not careful monitoring their orientation as you're installing them.
 
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