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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I posted to this board regarding a very rough idle in my ’00 M5, along with loss of power and occasional misfires. After much research and help from members of this board, I decided to remove the solenoids and see if they were the culprit. I am pleased to report that after resoldering a minor gap in the connection to the intake solenoid (the one located at 12 o’clock on the driver’s bank), cleaning and re-ringing the solenoids, the beast is back, with a smooth idle and full power!

Of great help was the thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/143817-vanos-solonoid-question-post1644056.html and the wiring schematic posted by gzig5 to that thread.

Comments and observations on the removal of the solenoid boards:
  • Both solenoid boards popped out with ease, requiring no more than two pulls per solenoid to remove, indicating that the rings were well past their prime.
  • Removal of radiator hoses was not necessary, though the hoses did get in the way and needed to be pushed a bit to get at the screws.
  • Both the gaskets and the O-rings were so hard and brittle that they seemed plastic-like.
  • I removed the gauze filter rings and did not replace them, as they seemed unnecessary.
  • I gave the boards a thourough cleaning with MAF cleaner and brake cleaner.
  • 12V applied to the circuit per the above-referenced wiring schematic indicated that all but one of the solenoids were being activated.
  • Reinstallation was simple; after aligning the solenoid board with the appropriate recesses, the valves snapped into place with application of moderate pressure with fingers.
Photos are attached below, with the malfunctioning circuit contact pointed out. Again, thanks to everyone on the board for their knowledgeable contributions!
 

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Nice one !

So it wasn't an Exhaust side issue as per your exhaust vanos code hey....mmh !
 

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Man i wish i was able to get my Bank 2 Vanos Solenoid out with 2 pulls. I literally could not get it out without breaking it!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Nice one !

So it wasn't an Exhaust side issue as per your exhaust vanos code hey....mmh !
The codes I had were:

Code:
P1526	A Camshaft Position Actuator Control Open Circuit Bank 2
P0022	"A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over - Re-tarded Bank 2
I think “A” Camshaft refers to the intake cam and Bank 2 to the driver’s side, so it seems the codes were consistent.
 

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The codes I had were:

Code:
P1526    A Camshaft Position Actuator Control Open Circuit Bank 2
P0022    "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over - Re-tarded Bank 2
I think “A” Camshaft refers to the intake cam and Bank 2 to the driver’s side, so it seems the codes were consistent.
Oops ! Yes A for sure is the intake side of things, for some reason I looked at the opened the link you posted and saw O M5 0's exhaust codes !

So yeah for sure intake would be 9 O Clock and 12 O Clock solenoids...

Sorted !!
 

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Man i wish i was able to get my Bank 2 Vanos Solenoid out with 2 pulls. I literally could not get it out without breaking it!
Me neither. I would love to have changed the O rings but couldnt get them out. So I just settled for the cover gasket. Im such a wimp!
 

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Me neither. I would love to have changed the O rings but couldnt get them out. So I just settled for the cover gasket. Im such a wimp!
NOOO !

Go back and re do it buddy ! Change your tools.... I think I used the huge pliers in the toolkit in the boot !

Clamp the pliers around one solenoid, very tightly, then thread a screw driver in between somehow and then use the screwdriver to slowly yank on the pliers.......Repeat on all 4 solenoids and then redo the whole process.....

Or start the car again and warm up slightly, switch off and try whilst slightly warm

Good Luck Neil !
 

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No need to give up,guys.Will do either today or thursday soleniodes on two other cars with their owners together and do a video of how to get them out.Post it to you then.Be patient and fight:M5thumbs:

@K:

Need your help on another matter with my rod bearings.Can you please ask Phil how much the clearence between rod bearing and crank should be?

Regs,

VantaaM5
 

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VantaaM5<!-- google_ad_section_end --> that would be great and a big confidence booster.
Neil
 

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@K:

Need your help on another matter with my rod bearings.Can you please ask Phil how much the clearence between rod bearing and crank should be?

Regs,

VantaaM5
PM me your email address and I ll send over some stuff that may help you !
 

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No need to give up,guys.Will do either today or thursday soleniodes on two other cars with their owners together and do a video of how to get them out.Post it to you then.Be patient and fight:M5thumbs:

@K:

Need your help on another matter with my rod bearings.Can you please ask Phil how much the clearence between rod bearing and crank should be?

Regs,

VantaaM5
A video you say :) Well, let's just hope it doesn't become an example of how not to do an O-ring swap :grinyes:
 

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No need to give up,guys.Will do either today or thursday soleniodes on two other cars with their owners together and do a video of how to get them out.Post it to you then.Be patient and fight:M5thumbs:

@K:

Need your help on another matter with my rod bearings.Can you please ask Phil how much the clearence between rod bearing and crank should be?

Regs,

VantaaM5

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/132025-help-measurements.html

Getting Warmer right ?
 

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Warmer,but not hot:1zhelp:
Need the technical data with clearance on the rod bearings.TIS says it refers to that.

But thanks anyway,K!
 

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So,guys,pulled out the solenoides on two cars today(makes 16 single solenoides) and had no issues with the twist and pull strategy I described.

Anyway,one of us has taken a video of it and I will probably have tomorrow evening time to edit it and send it.
So hold on and don't give up,there is soon help around:byee55amg
 

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"I removed the gauze filter rings and did not replace them, as they seemed unnecessary."

Gee, I wonder why those dufus BMW mechanical engineers even put those in there.
From what I could tell by looking at my solenoids, if the filters are broken (as most of them were) then you might as well pull the rings as they don't seem to serve any other purpose than hold the filters. For what it's worth, I still left my filter rings in there but removed all remaining pieces of filter.

I don't think it's possible to order new gauze filter rings separately, so there are not that many options except getting complete new solenoid boards if you want to have new filters. It's a very weak construction anyway, as those filters will break over time and clog up the oil channels in the Vanos.

For reference, here's a picture of one of my boards (sorry about the poor focus), where I've highlighted the broken filter areas in red and remaining filter pieces in green. This illustrates the condition mine were in at ~80k miles.

TeXJ: in my case the car was ticking before changing the o-rings, and it's still ticking afterwards. Maybe the ticking is a bit different in character now, hard to say with any certainty.
 

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