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Discussion Starter #161
I'm cheap. I added the grub screws into my old covers rather than buying new covers. I got my screws from McMaster-Carr or I think you can get the OEM ones. Just find the approximate center of each counterbore and drill and tap. A little of the low strength thread locker can be added for peace of mind. Haven't had any solenoid issues since.
 

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Hi all, i own an M2000 E39 M5 since 2007, as usual and since day one i have a problem with the solenoid valve board, but lately i have done a huge mistake when i was trying to clean the oil path inside the solenoids and i have manage to kill 3 of these MOV or diodes (using a 12V battery)
anyone have any idea about the part number or anything related?
still the mystery of these diodes or MOV haven't been solved yet
 

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Have you not seen this? There is a part number in the writing on the mid right. I am not saying that getting a Melf stye would not be ideal, it is just there is no real track record for them being in a bunch of cars. This standard diode that is recommended by Gzig has been tested in many cars and has been proven to work. It is your safe bet. 1N4148
Vanos Board Schematic_V3.jpg
 

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During a lot and i am saying a lot of discussion between you sailor24, gigz and others (believe me i went threw all of these discussions and it was alot of reading), it seams that the debates did not ends and the type of the original type of diodes/MOVs still not quiet clear

so excuse me for asking again and i know that you did made a lot of effort to find the type of these MOVs, using the suggested diodes have been tested and the still working after some miles on it?

thank you sailor for effort
 

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Yes the debate continues.
It is NOT an MOV. The circuit is a simple flyback diode circuit. There's no need for an MOV plus if you google image MOV you will see they all look kind of like capacitors, nothing like these. The stock unit is a MELF (i.e. surface mount) diode.

If you look at the physical size, band colors, and surface mount package, it fits best with the BYM10-1000.

https://www.vishay.com/docs/88546/bym10-xxx.pdf

A lot of people have used the 1N4148 supposedly without issue.

https://www.vishay.com/docs/81857/1n4148.pdf

However, look at the difference in repetitve peak reverse voltage suppression: 100 vs. 1000.
Personally I would not use the little ones. Why risk spiking your ECM?
 

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There is no debate I am pretty sure I know what it is, 68 was pretty sure he knew what it was, but no one has bought that part put in a car and tested it over the long haul.
This part you keep telling people is right has not been in a car. 68 was skeptical, I think you are pretty close, but I also found the correctly colored with identical look of the ones you found but they had different properties. I can't tell someone to use them, even though I know they will work perfect, I have not tested them. I know the ones you found will work but have not been tested, so I am not telling anyone to put them in their car.
The original substitute works and are safe, I know this from all the people that have put them in. If they are installed backwards they blowup but there is no damage to the rest of the system. What happens with your part if someone installs it backwards?
 

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Dunno. Maybe it would blow up, maybe it would fry the DME. So you like the small diode because it's idiot proof and has a track record. That's fine. However, BMW spec'ed in the larger one to be on the safe side long term perhaps. The little one may burn out over time, which puts the DME transistors at risk. Or maybe their engineers know something we don't know. How many volts/amps can the noids produce when they aren't switched off? I watched a 1N4148 go up in smoke with just a 9V smoke alarm battery connected to it.
Whoever first tried the 1N4148 used what he had laying around I suspect. It's one of the widely used generic diodes anywhere.

I would be interested in seeing the component you found if you still have it. I know for sure it's not an MOV though.

Capture.PNG
 

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The one I originally found is near identical to the one you found except has a much higher voltage rating. Again I don't know which is right,I am not an electrical engineer. What I a have read however is that the voltages produced from magnetic pintle devices like our solenoids produce very high voltages but with no amps/watts in them.
Again the problem is no one who really really knows has said. I have also found a type of mov that looks identical but I am inclined to agree it is likely a diode. My answer has always been to put and old original on a board, but I have a few spares that I guard.
 

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I'm cheap. I added the grub screws into my old covers rather than buying new covers. I got my screws from McMaster-Carr or I think you can get the OEM ones. Just find the approximate center of each counterbore and drill and tap. A little of the low strength thread locker can be added for peace of mind. Haven't had any solenoid issues since.



Do you have the exact dimensions/ Length of these grab screw? is it a 6mm or 7mm screw ? and what about the torque value, it is near 16Nm right? i will also update my covers using the same procedure
 

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Discussion Starter #174

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I don't remember the specs but it was an M10 or M12 diameter fine thread.
Here it is, from your post a few years back-

The covers are easy to modify if you have a drill press or a milling machine. I probably wouldn't try it with a hand drill. I modded my covers a couple years ago. The screw spec is M12 x 1.25 thread with 12mm screw length. I got the screws from McMaster Carr. The OEM screws have a dab of loctite/sealant on the thread is the only difference. I simply put some blue loctite on the threads as I installed them and they are still tight.

I'll modify your existing covers for $40 each plus return shipping if you are interested. That covers the modification and the screws.

This is what they look like.
From this thread-

https://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39-m5-e52-z8-discussion/317226-vanos-cover-set-screws-specs.html#post3960386
 

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i also noticed that you may have a set of complete working solenoid boards, do you have any of the version 1.4 and above now?



email me at: [email protected]
I have at least 3 complete working boards and all are V1.4. $475 + payment fee (if any) shipped to Lebanon. Can include update set of covers for another $75.
 
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