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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, first time writing here but read alot here before. Now I´m alittle bit confused and would need a little bit support from someone experienced person.


I have issues with fault codes P0015, P0012, P0022 and engine goes into limp home mode after some spiriting driving.


I would like to mentionen that this is not an original car, it´s an e30 with s62b50 engine. I have built the car in year time. Due to 540 brake servo at the left side there is no room for MAF (mass air flow meter) so i run it in alpha n mode. These modifications should not affect my fault codes according to me but I mention it anyway. I also had issue with broken plastic guide lines for main camshaft chain. Chain and tensioners has been replaced and also all o-rings for both vanos.


At this time I also checked the vanos solenoids for both bank 1 and 2. I checked clicking sound and cleaned the solenoids with MAF cleaner and air. Everyging seemed good with good clicking sound from all eight solenoids.


After rebuilding the engine and running with alpha n mode the engine showed only fault code P0015, camshaft B Position-timing over-retarded. (bank1). I removed vanos solenoids from bank 1 and replaced with a complet set of 4 second hand solenoids including board. After first test run P0015 was gone, and the engine was running like a beast with full power, but I got a new fault code, P0012, camshaft A Position-timing over-retarded. (bank1) and limp home mode after 10 minutes spiriting driving. So I thought that the second hand solenoids had issue with another solenoid. I also suspected that maybe the alpha n mode maybe affected the fault codes so I mounted both MAF without filter and made a new test run. Newer got full power, maybe my MAFs are bad. Now I hade fault code P0022,camshaft A Position-timing over-retarded. (bank2). So now its the other bank that shows fault codes.


When I checked my solenoids during the rebuilt I noticed that the residual gauze filter was broken as many other also have reported. My oil was new just before I started my rebuilt with timing chain and seemed like new so I used it again. Maybe the oil is contaminated from the plastic guide line even if looks very new? Filter for vanos is not replaced. Oil level is at maximum.


Any suggestions are higly appreciated.
 

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It sounds like you are still having solenoid issues. Some are impossible to get fully cleaned out, the gauze gets stuck inside and can't be dislodged. You need high pressure air for cleaning them, then do a test with brake cleaner. Wrap some electrical tape around the squirter straw of the brake cleaner near the tip and push it in the sideport of the noid. Open the solenoid with small 5V or 9V battery (I hooked up a foot switch using a doorbell) and shoot the brake cleaner. You should get a consistent vertical stream from each noid. If the spray pattern is disturbed in any way, keep cleaning or toss it.
You can also switch the boards side to side to help pinpoint the culprit noid(s) using the error codes generated and 68FB's pictures of solenoid positions.
 

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It seems weird that they are all vanos retard errors, this also makes me think it is solenoids, but need to think on it.
Use a 120psi compressor to clean solenoids, then check as described above.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you, it seems like you said that it still was solenoid issues. First I cleaned all eight solenoids but it I still got fault code from bank 2 and a lot of smoke probably from unburnt fuel. Then I powered up bank 2 solenoids with my batteri when solenoids still in the engine and noticed that two solenoids was not clicking. Swoped with my first set of solenoids and now it’s working:)

But I got a new fault code when I rev the engine 😞 P1357 and limphome mode. On the internet it says misfire cylinder 8. I think maybe new spark plugs or move the coil. Any suggestions?
 

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Plugs/coil problem are not going to cause limp mode. When the engine was rebuilt I'm assuming the VANOS units had to be removed? Perhaps cam timing wasn't perfect when the VANOS were replaced, both slightly over-retarded.
I wonder if you will see new codes generated with a second drive cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will do a second test run. Vanos units was removed during rebuild and also all o-rings for vanos was replaced. I used two 8 mm drills to lock the camshafts and camshafts where very close to correct position after returning the engine but not 100%. According to the vanos manual at Besain Systems it should be alright if it was very close after returning the engine.

During the test run with fault code P1357 I only used one MAF and alpha n mode. It means that all air went thru only one MAF housing instead of two. I don’t now if not enough air can result in P1357 code? I will try with a slighter larger home made MAF housing for next test run. I get back after test run:)
 

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If you had an air restriction problem you could have faults in either 4 or 8 because they grab the air in a different way than the other cylinders. If you are running alpha N you don't need any MAF tubes you don't even need the top of the plenum on. Albeit you have no filter but in the short term that will not have a negative effect if you are in clean air. To start I would just remove the top of the plenum. Also are you sure it was in limp mode? code 1357 will shut off the injector on cylinder 8 so the car will only run on 7 cyls. The power will be reduced from that alone.

With most electrical faults that would cause an intake and exhaust vanos fault on the same bank we see one as retard fault and the other as an advance fault, if the ground was bad or something similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have now made a new test run with slightly larger MAF housing but I received new fault codes😢. New codes are: P1343 cylinder misfire with fuel cut off cylinder 1, P1341 Multiple Cylinder Misfire With Fuel Cut-off, and the old fault code P1357 Misfire Cylinder 8 With Fuel Cut-Off.

This happens after harder type of driving and then I get power reduction and bad idle. I call it limp home but that’s maybe wrong wording? I can either turn off ignition or erase fault codes and then I have full power again .

I have not tried to drive without the top of the plenum, isn’t that dangerous and risk for dirt into the cylinders? I need to drive fairly quick and rev it hard to get these fault codes.

Any suggestions what to do next? My inlet is slightly larger than one MAF housing in diameter.Can the restriction of air lead to this fault codes? My exhaust is also restricted slightly as I use a e46 328 end muffler. When the engine runs it runs very good with full power I believe.
 

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Driving with the plenum off is not really what I was thinking, but race cars don't have air filters. You can't run down a gravel road, you have to think and drive in clean air. And you are not doing it long.
I have no idea what you have done or got so pop the hood and take a picture. At this point I have no idea if you have air starvation or fuel starvation.

Now I have to ask a million questions on this install. I will just start with one area. Did you use a M5 fuel pump, M5 fuel relay, M5 fuel regulator, and last M5 fuel return layout which goes to the fuel pump bucket?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Today I have been out driving several hours without any issues except traction issues 🙂. I also test drove and compared with my brothers M3 e36 compressor with 500hp, he was faster but not so much. Haven’t changed anything since last test drive when I had several fault codes. The only reason I can think of is that the alpha n mode didn’t have time enough to get the correct fuel mixture. Maybe I was to quick with revving the engine the previous test runs. Thanks a lot for the help I received, I appreciate it a lot.

For interest I can write that I have a original Bosch 044 fuel pump, original m5 fuel filter and pressure regulator.

I don’t have M5 fuel relay and M5 fuel return layout which goes to the fuel pump bucket. Is this negative for me?
 

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What did you do for the pump? Turn it on with ignition and leave it on/ That works.
The returning fuel, where is it directed too? It needs to go into the cup or you will run out of fuel when the fuel level falls below the level of the top of the cup. not in stop and go traffic but under hard pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, pump is on when ignition is on. Returning is directed in the same way as e30 original, back to tank via M5 e39 pressure regulator. So far I only drove the car with almost full tank but I will try to empty the tank for the next test run, shouldn’t be to hard as the tank is only 55 liters at e30😁.
 
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