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2007 BMW M6 Convertible
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I got the Engine Malfuntion code
"DME Vanos Contol Exhaust Bank 1"

At first, I was getting the same code on the Bank 1 intake side. So I ran a Vanos test and decided to replace all 4 solenoids. After doing so, changing the oil, and bleeding the Vanos 3 times..
I am now getting the code on the exhaust side.
***I ran the vanos test and the Bank 1 exhaust 'valve quality' is .20 while the others are around .80

PICTURES ATTACHED ...I really hope somebody can point me in the right direction. 馃榿

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Remind us why you rebuilt your engine in the first place?

If rod bearing failure then all that glitter is a PITA to flush, even after full engine overhaul. Did you flush or at least empty the cooler before filling up oil? What about the oil filter assy? Did you change the vanos pump filter that's embedded in the block between block and vanos pump? Did you remove and clean the filters underneath the vanos banjo bolts on each head? Did you remove and manually activate (empty) the vanos pressure accumulator?

Back when Troy was somewhat helpful he had someone flush the engine 5-10 times with 5w30 oil and running multiple vanos bleeds in the process. Supposedly fixed the issue. But it's been a while so details are blurry...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I built it bc I bent a rod and shave a ton of my cylinder wall off. LOL

Did you flush or at least empty the cooler before filling up oil? YES
What about the oil filter assy? YES
Did you change the vanos pump filter that's embedded in the block between block and vanos pump? YES
Did you remove and clean the filters underneath the vanos banjo bolts on each head? NOPE, but I will now.

Did you remove and manually activate (empty) the vanos pressure accumulator NO

So it seems like I may have some stuff in my vanos units.

I may just keep flushing and bleeding until I notice some changes in the vanos readings.
Hopefully that'll help. 馃檹馃
 

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Flushing and running bleed routine will not / barely get rid of any crap already in there. If I were you (I've done this at different times): remove the accumulator and apply 12V to get it to open (careful - oil will shoot out and it'll be LOUD). Before reinstalling start the engine and idle for a few seconds until you get a quart or so of oil out the hanging accumulator hose. Reassemble. Remove the banjos on the heads and clean the screens. Reassemble. Run the bleed routine a few times and let us know how it goes.
 

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I built it bc I bent a rod and shave a ton of my cylinder wall off. LOL

Did you flush or at least empty the cooler before filling up oil? YES
What about the oil filter assy? YES
Did you change the vanos pump filter that's embedded in the block between block and vanos pump? YES
Did you remove and clean the filters underneath the vanos banjo bolts on each head? NOPE, but I will now.

Did you remove and manually activate (empty) the vanos pressure accumulator NO

So it seems like I may have some stuff in my vanos units.

I may just keep flushing and bleeding until I notice some changes in the vanos readings.
Hopefully that'll help. 馃檹馃
How did you address the bad cylinder? #5 if I am not mistaking?

Overbore to new piston at 0.2mm over and leave the rest?

I am VERY interested in how this engine was assembled.

P-Chi
 

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2007 BMW M6 Convertible
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How did you address the bad cylinder? #5 if I am not mistaking?

Overbore to new piston at 0.2mm over and leave the rest?

I am VERY interested in how this engine was assembled.

P-Chi
Bought a wrecked car with 30k on it. Rebuilt that cars engine and installed it in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Flushing and running bleed routine will not / barely get rid of any crap already in there. If I were you (I've done this at different times): remove the accumulator and apply 12V to get it to open (careful - oil will shoot out and it'll be LOUD). Before reinstalling start the engine and idle for a few seconds until you get a quart or so of oil out the hanging accumulator hose. Reassemble. Remove the banjos on the heads and clean the screens. Reassemble. Run the bleed routine a few times and let us know how it goes.
How do you get those screens out?
 

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Here:

 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here:

Welp...went to pull the screen out on one side and that thing broke to pieces. So now I have to take the entire actual vanos unit off.
Wonderful... 馃檮

Might as well replace it with another one I have here in case that unit was the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Actually, do the make rebuild kits for these vanos adjusters? Or at least oring kits....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I replaced the bank one vanos unit with one that only had 29k on it. New solenoids, cleaned out the oil cooler and lines, pumped out the accumulator, new oil & filter, bled the vanks 3 times, and she's running like a top!!


Thanks @flacoramos for the advice!...I still had a bunch of trash in there from the previous engine just like you thought.
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No pics of what came out? Or those vanos inlet filters? C'mon... 馃槃

Good to hear it's running again. FYI when I did a vanos 'flush' as described above my engine became smoother. Hard to explain and no means to measure anything but just how it felt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No pics of what came out? Or those vanos inlet filters? C'mon... 馃槃

Good to hear it's running again. FYI when I did a vanos 'flush' as described above my engine became smoother. Hard to explain and no means to measure anything but just how it felt.
Sorry, I was working on it til 3am so pics weren't on my mind. LOL 馃槾

But I 100% understand what you mean by smoother. I was thinking the same thing when I drove it!
 
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