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PPI

PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION, get it done at MOTOR WORKS WEST, they're in NJ too...as far as price goes you can always talk them down[if you look at a car from the first day it goes up, sometimes you'll notice the price increases after about the first week] i dunno if that happened with this car, but dealers expecting to be haggled down will increase the price so that they get what they were originally expecting to sell the car for...a bmw i was just looking at went from 35k to 39k after a week...i originally planned to offer 30k...so imagine someone whom didn't fallow it and they go in expecting to get a deal if they talked the dealer down to 35k...i would suggest start with the big name dealers and move down to these little dealers because usually they'll buy the cars that weren't selling elsewhere...anyway this is just a regurgitation of the basics, i'm sure the other board members will agree that as long as you got a good clean[no issues, accident, well maintained, etc] its worth what you paid...then again there's charts/guide lines:

[the highest dollar would apply to a car with <15k miles]
00'-no more than 30k
01'-no more than 35k
02'-no more than 39k
03'-no more than 44k

or you can always buy board member PHILLYM5's car...

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=115931
 

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Discussion Starter #3
PPI

PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTION, get it done at MOTOR WORKS WEST, they're in NJ too...as far as price goes you can always talk them down[if you look at a car from the first day it goes up, sometimes you'll notice the price increases after about the first week] i dunno if that happened with this car, but dealers expecting to be haggled down will increase the price so that they get what they were originally expecting to sell the car for...a bmw i was just looking at went from 35k to 39k after a week...i originally planned to offer 30k...so imagine someone whom didn't fallow it and they go in expecting to get a deal if they talked the dealer down to 35k...i would suggest start with the big name dealers and move down to these little dealers because usually they'll buy the cars that weren't selling elsewhere...anyway this is just a regurgitation of the basics, i'm sure the other board members will agree that as long as you got a good clean[no issues, accident, well maintained, etc] its worth what you paid...then again there's charts/guide lines:

[the highest dollar would apply to a car with <15k miles]
00'-no more than 30k
01'-no more than 35k
02'-no more than 39k
03'-no more than 44k

or you can always buy board member PHILLYM5's car...

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=115931
If I had 100K lying around I would. Thanks for the info friend. I'll check into that PPI. Will the dealer just let me take the car there or how does that work typically with PPI's?
 

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If I had 100K lying around I would. Thanks for the info friend. I'll check into that PPI. Will the dealer just let me take the car there or how does that work typically with PPI's?
the dealer will have to let you bring the car to motor works west because the mechanics don't leave the premessis...the dealer might say no to taking the car out of the dealer for a ppi either becaue they're concerned something might happen or they might try to pressure you but personally NEVER NEVER buy a car without a PROPER PPI...if they don't let you take the car out even after you tell them you won't buy it if they don't...look for someone to go take a look make sure they know e39 m5s...not someone who's just gonna go play with the radio and kick the tires
 

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the dealer will have to let you bring the car to motor works west because the mechanics don't leave the premessis...the dealer might say no to taking the car out of the dealer for a ppi either becaue they're concerned something might happen or they might try to pressure you but personally NEVER NEVER buy a car without a PROPER PPI...if they don't let you take the car out even after you tell them you won't buy it if they don't...look for someone to go take a look make sure they know e39 m5s...not someone who's just gonna go play with the radio and kick the tires
Thanks for the advice. Motor Works West is only like 10miles from there! So it shouldn't be a big deal. Anything else I should be looking out for on these cars? Maintenance scares me. cherrsagai
 

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Your best bet is to give a fully refundable deposit down on the condition that they let you take it motorworks west as JohnAnthony states. As far as price, I feel like if its the right combo of color/year/options/clean PPI , then price is whatever it is... Thats just me
 

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On the surface 28k does not seem unreasonable. Keep in mind that the car is now seven years old. The car could be tight and 'like new' or it could have rattly front suspension and other noticeable flaws. I would never buy a car without first driving it. Note that the text mentions "nicks and scratches throughout the exterior". It might be in 'average' condition and not to your liking if viewed in person and taken for a test drive.

Dave
 

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Based on what I'm seeing offered and accepted on these cars on ebay, I think you may be able to buy the car for less. Based on the PPI and descriptions (scratches in the cabin as noted above), I would negotiate with them.
 

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Agreed. I would ask them to pull all the service records since new (easily doable through their own service department), check for anything out of the ordinary, and negotiate from there. Make an offer contingent on the PPI.

Good luck!
 

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FWIW...

Is this M5 worth the $28K+ they are asking?

I'm looking at possibly going to look at it and trade my car in.

Anyone know anything about this one? It's in NJ..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001...241008855QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item120241008855

I just wasnt sure on current values.

TIA.
It may be nothing, but I think that car is missing the front wheel well splash shield on the driver side. Look closely at the inside driver side front wheel well towards the bumper... that area forward of the wheel should be enclosed. Sometimes this piece is lost or damaged when a "lowered" car is chained down and flatbedded. Also, it never hurts to talk to the former owner and it's a giant plus if he's a board member.
 

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It may be nothing, but I think that car is missing the front wheel well splash shield on the driver side. Look closely at the inside driver side front wheel well towards the bumper... that area forward of the wheel should be enclosed. Sometimes this piece is lost or damaged when a "lowered" car is chained down and flatbedded. Also, it never hurts to talk to the former owner and it's a giant plus if he's a board member.
Good eye, it appears missing which is a huge red flag for me. I bought an M3 with tons of problems about two years ago and it was missing a lot of the undercarriage.

This car isn't for me, too many little issues with it.
 
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